2001 Chrysler Town & Country Questions

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rear heater hose needs to be replace, how to cut the line
Had the heater retun line fixed then i went to store tryed to shut van off but it wouldn't so I drive it two blocks back home and i could smell burned wirers and it was smokeing real bad from under motot now i have nothing when i turn the key on.
Are the front and the back have separate fuses>
this happened after my wife left the lights on and hsd to be jumped started
we had to jump staet the car and the front blower would not work since then the rear blower and the waser quit
i replaced the hub bearing on my 2001 chrysler town and country and when trying to take it for a test drive, the car wouldnt move in drive or reverse with the foot off the gas. i loosened the axle/hub bearing nut and it seems to run ok now, but i torqued the axle nut while the car was on a jack stand without the wheel on. does the car need to be off any stands and fully rested on the ground to properly torque the hub bearing nut?
when i turn my wheel sharply there is a grinding noise coming from the front left (passenger) wheel.
It just started this week all at once and I have a batt draw too the lights inside will come on for no reason
I changed out the trans. Solenoid about 6 months ago. Now I'm getting a engine light and a code p0740.

What seems to make the problem better or worse? Adding power steering fluid
How long have you had this problem? Few days.Since I bottomed it out
Brake pedal hits the floor...random (48 hrs, usually 6+ weeks) Every time there air in only the front driver side brake. Mechanics are stumped. They will replace Master Cylinder, not that they feel it's bad but because they don't know what else to do.
Since it's always been only the front driver side full of air, can I bleed just that one?
My passenger rear vent window will not close. I was wondering how to remove this panel so I can test the switch. My water shield is coming out in little broken pieces through the bottom of the door and I know that's causing problems with the window so I will eventually have to remove the whole door panel but, for now I just want to get my vent closed before it rains.
Drivers headlight stays on
I had my power steering cooler replaced because it was leaking I had a friend put it on well now it's leaking more do I really need a power steering cooler because I told it was an aftermarket part
Old grandpa. Have changed both speed sensors and checked wiring harness behind dash. Put in new battery. Cleaned battery terminals. Told to check wiring cluster below battery but encased in sheath. Should I try to trace this cluster to where wires attach below? Is one particular color wire a likely cause? Getting no codes w scanner. Often car runs like new w no problems. Seems to be worse when first started up but will occur sometimes just when driving. Dealer wants $120.00 just to do "special" scan procedure. Worried about hurting trans when car "jumps"
otherwise will just keep driving and will not worry about speedometer jumping and slight trans jerk. Car has about 250,000 mi. I'm on fixed income and need to keep it if possible. Will crawl under car if needed to further check harness cluster for bad connection. Grandson can pull me out from under after by my ankles. Thought I'd give this forum a try and maybe get lucky. Appreciate any thoughts from experts. Thanks, Grandpa (Great Grandpa if I'm honest) Jim
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