1997 Chrysler Sebring Questions

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I have replaced the battery recently
it sputters really bad. it will turn off but crank back, idles rough.
the car wont start when it is been off for a while, but after about 15 to twenty minutes of trying to start it will finally start. and will keep restarting as long as it is not to long between starts, we changed the distributor and the crank shaft sencor, still same problem
I bought the car from a family member who used to drive it to Florida and back, me and the old owner both live in Maryland. You can start the car up fine and it will run fine (it sounds and feels like it has a misfire but it just had new plugs, wires & all put in) you can drive it for how ever long you need to & shut it off (only does it sometimes) but when you go to start it, it won't start it just cranks, I can only get it to start again by spraying starting fluid into the air filter & it fires right up

I have a repair manual that shows me how to basically strip the car down to the frame and put it back together so I can probably know/get to what you are talking about if that helps
Water in reservoir is full coming out of lid and it's not going out staying full
fuel pump is in the gas tank, can I get to it without dropping the gas tank, like removing the seats?
Driving to work and car just died, had it towed home, installed new fuel filter and coil pack and spark plugs, it cranks over but won't start.
I was driving the other day and lost a/c. noticed the check light on about the same time. Scanned and found 2 codes. I followed someones proceedure and checked that I do have the 5v reference. At all sensors. Codes return immediately. I do not have any performance issues but having no a/c in Florida sucks. Any ideas?
First off I love my car. So it's not going anywhere. :)

About a week ago it started to sputter like it was running out of gas. Occasionally it would shut off. It's always started right back up.

The check engine light, came on a couple days ago and the code was for "Low voltage air temperature" and "throttle position low voltage" (not 100% but this is what I remember) and both make sense for what it was doing.

Also may sound nuts, but dealership even questioned if our radio was working or if we replaced it at all. Yes and no, the stereo is not working properly. it all works fine except the volume controls. It is the original radio with the car we are 3rd owners. 1st being a woman bought it new, and then gave it to her son who allowed his son to use/drive it.

Ok. Last night it showed it had "no gas" in it. It was well over half full when my daughter took it about 15 miles total around town. I was sitting on a hill talking to a friend with top down (at this point maybe that even matters LOL)

It shut off like it does on occasion, turned the key it started right up, but stalled again after a few seconds and would not turn over. Acted like it ran out of gas. I knew it should have more gas then showing empty. I drifted it down to a flat spot and shut it off tried again (still showed empty) So I shut it off for a few minutes and called for back up help. Tried the key again, it was showing about 3/8ths plus gas, low fuel light off. We put about 3 gallon of gas just for fun and just in case fuel gage etc went bonkers.

We noticed the fuel pump not kicking on. Also the dash had the red light for security system beaming on, and CCd on the clock/temperature/trip indicator etc display. Check engine light "gone" and putting it on the computer shows "no error codes"

Ok so... various suggestions online
we have tried

Pulling all fuses, relays and computer mods one at a time and attempting to start car to see if we get the check engine light.

We have disconnected the battery for about 4 1/2 hours let everything reset (didn't need to be that long but was busy) reconnected "same"

Dealer says that the CCd means that it's a computer issue in the dash that triggered the security system to shut the car DOWN. Ok.. so we need to know where else to look and check and does anyone have a specific to situational suggestion?

I know we need to buy the book for it! Which would be a huge help at this time, but maybe if someone knows of an only version or where to look and have had this issue and how it actually got fixed?

I love my car and it's not being gotten rid of, my step father has had his for 2 years, and seems to be following behind on mine when something goes wrong. So hopefully we figure it out quickly his will be going down in about 2-3 weeks :)

When driving from South Carolina to Texas,car began to stall and sputter...even at 70 mph on the highway.After pulling over and waiting,it starts and runs for a while then stalls out again.When I fill the tank,it runs fine until I get down to 3/4 then it stalls out again.It seems to only happen once the fuel level drops below a certain point.Also,when filling the tank,it only allows me to add gas slowly,otherwise the pump pops like its full and spews gas out (only when pumping at full speed)I am currently stuck in Texas as I refuse to get back on the highway if the problem keeps happening.Someone,anyone please help me....
I need to get it top dead center and have already broke the part on one new distributor

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