1996 Chevrolet G Series Van (G10) Questions

Get answers to your auto repair and car questions. Ask a mechanic for help and get back on the road.

Find questions for your car.
I have a 1996 G10 van with a 5.0 engine. Currently, the van idles rough; it seems more evident when warm. I would not say that it is idling erratically, but rather is a little loud and shaky. There is no check engine light on, and recent work includes PCM replaced, replaced catalytic converter, replaced intake manifold gaskets, air and fuel filters replaced, spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap replaced, MAF sensor replaced, and throttle body and EGR valve cleaned.

I took it to a mechanic (to resolve more severe driveability issues) and he said that the fuel volume was erratic when the van was warm, but the pressure was fine. He suggested I needed a new fuel pump and filter.

I took it to another mechanic, and actually figured out that the earlier issues were (somehow) the result of a loose battery cable. However, the van still idles rough. Thus my question is as follows:

What else could cause the fuel volume to "all-over the place" as opposed to the fuel pump itself? The reason I ask is that the van does not appear to exhibit the "typical" symptoms I associate with a faulty fuel pump. That is, after fixing the battery cable, it does not have trouble starting and does not hesitate notably under acceleration. Like I said, the van's most evident fault now is a rough idle, and I would presume it would need less fuel at this point. I suppose this could mean that it is receiving too much fuel, but I thought such might be more likely the result of a faulty sensor than the fuel pump itself.

Thanks for any help.

I have a 96 Chevy G10 van with 14x,xxx miles. It has a 5.0 engine.

Recently, it has been given me a whole host of problems. However, I doubt they are all the result of a single issue. My largest concern is with a recent issue that appears related to the braking system.

I noticed the issue first about several weeks ago. I was pulling into a turning lane when the van appeared to pull/buck/surge and I believe the both the Brake and ABS light came on. As I was actually turning, this sympton repeated itself, though I cannot be positive both lights came on.

I had not been driving the van due to the issues it had been have having, but, after performing another repair, I decided to try and drive it again. This time, while I was doing ~70mph on the interstate, the van essentially repeated the symtpons noted in the preceding paragraph - it bucked/pulled/jumped (I am not sure how to describe it), the speedometer fluttered, and at least one brake light (either the normal or ABS) briefly came one.

Again, I have not been driving it, but I went to test drive this morning. This time, I did not even fully pull out before the issues started. This time, only the Brake light was on. The van seemed to have a great deal of trouble getting to any speed; eventually, it jumped/bucked, the light went off, and it seemed as if might actually be able to accelerate fine. However, I was not willing to drive it any more to find out.

The brake fluid level is just fine. I have had the pads replaced recently, and have not noticed any problems with stopping the vehicle. I am not sure if some electrical issue might be possible?

The vehicle has also stalled intermittently, has a hard time starting, and makes some noise (a whistling noise during low speeds, tapping while the van is warm at idle), but I have a feeling these are not related.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
My chevy van has been stalling when it gets heated up and the outside temperature is 70+ degrees. It seems that after running in the heat the oil pressure begins to drop when idling. Mechanics have said it is the transmission but I have been running the van fine in the Winter for 2 years with no problems. I think there is a hose or pipe that is heating up the oil or gas and at a certain point it is evaporating and not making it into the engine. any ideas?
My van died while driving. I tested the fuel pressure when I got it home and assumed it was the fuel pump when I got a zero pressure reading. I replaced the fuel pump assembly, fuel pump relay and the fuel filter. The van ran just fine for about 140 miles then it died while driving just like before. After dropping tank a srcond time, I did some futher testing and found the circut to the fuel pump was dead. What other than what I replaced would make the electircal system to the pump go dead?
doors will not unlock with any of the power door lock switches (driver, front passenger, side or rear door). I replaced the driver's electric door lock switch - no help. The 25A accessory fuse is good. Any suggestions?
I have taken my van to the shop, they recharge it and then it is hot again. Took it back, they think it is a evaporator? How do I find out for sure?
They charged me 130.00 to check and change a orifice.
Get an estimate and never overpay again
RepairPal guarantees your repair will be done right.