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1993 Chevrolet 1500 Pickup Questions

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93
questions

When check engine light is on
it won't start tap on the brain and sometimes you can get the light to go out then you can start it but then you give it gas it Bogs down and won't shift right

Sorry for the novel, I'm just pulling hair out now (and I'm bald!)
1993 Chevy c1500 pickup, 4.3L, 6 cyl, Cheyenne package with W/T, 460L tranny, about 316,000 miles on original engine.

Already done:
Transmission – new – 15 mos ago
Battery and cables – new - 7 mos ago (self)
Starter/alternator – new - 9/10 mos ago (self)
Exhaust system – new - 15 mos ago (rust issue with manifold now, will replace)
Fuel system (pump, filter, lines – front to pump) - new – 9 mos ago
Major tune up – 6 mos ago
TPS – new - 8 mos ago (self)

COMPLETED BY SELF IN THE LAST 72 HOURS:
Map Sensor -new
CTS –new
PCV valve – new
Air filter – new
IAC with gasket – new
TBI rebuild and new gasket - (re-used old spring and cup)
EGR valve and gasket - new
EGR solenoid –new
CTS – new
Air filter – new
Vacuum lines – new or replaced in last 3 mos
NO leaks anywhere from repairs (very small coolant leak)

Truck starts right up, but only at a super low idle for about 4-5 secs, then kicks up to a normal idle. Drives perfect with quicker response than before – but only if slow acceleration (bogs if laying on pedal) - until braking or slowing down, then stalls out and dies completely. O2 sensor not swapped out yet because passenger side manifold needs replaced and y-pipe disconnected from manifold on that side. Vacuum lines are either good or new.
EGR was so clogged, it was SOLID in the tube and PCV flow through tube on the driver’s side had to be dug out and then cleaned. I know, I know…
NOW, after replacing and cleaning all of those items, there’s a NEW issue – an exhaust smell in the cab!

It runs great when fixed properly and ran steady (even with what needed to be replaced) up to this point.

What’s even left after this point?
The PCM? Maybe a bad ground or connector somewhere? The O2 sensor?

Running rich problem is fixed; no fuel smell in exhaust; injector spray pattern looks right, but won’t hold steady; truck started to choke and “suck” air and fuel for a couple of days –fixed. The truck used to “whistle” while “sucking fuel from the TBI – fixed. What will make keep making it stalling and dying out now? Other than the O2, I'm at a loss

the heating system does not blend or just defrost or floor. It mainly blows out of the panel vents

After running a while it will do this causin problem through out the truck

I have a 93 Chevy Silverado 350 I have replaced the thermostat no leaks in lines burped the system and still no heat in the cab of truck

Has had problems not starting. Would start at others it wouldn't. Was driving it yesterday and it backfired and stopped running.

it needs to be greased

My truck starts up fine in the summer, but once the weather starts cooling off and starts dropping below 70 degrees or so it'll start up, run for 2-5 seconds and then die, if I start it again it'll start up and then die, eventually it'll start and stay started, and once warm it'll start up right away as long as the engine is warm, the colder it gets the more times it takes to keep it started, when it drops below freezing this becomes an hour long process. In the last yrar, the coolent temp sensor has been replaced, distributor shaft, battery, fuel filter, the fuel pump failed and was replaced 2 years ago. I'll smell gas as I try to start it.

Was just working fine then dropped 3rd and 4th. Just put it in as well had new shift solenoid put in.

I replaced the actuator in the left door and that door lock only works when the actuator rod has been removed, as if it isn't getting enough power. Now the right side door lock is inop as well. Is there a relay in there that could be bad, or is it something else?