Car Owners' Reviews

Car Reviews and Owner Comments

I got a 2001 Volvo s60 and I love it it's been good to me
I bought my Corolla in 2008 brand new. I figured by the time my child was able to drive this car would be in great condition at 7 years old. Boy was I wrong! Within a year I had to get a brand new set of tires as the factory tires were horrible. I have literally had close to 10 light bulbs go out in the car. Currently the light under the gears is out. If it is dark I have no idea what gear I am in unless I look up at the main panel. Not great for a new teen driver! Light bulbs should not go out like they do in this car..it started about 3 years after I bought car. Dealership first told me I probably used my brakes too much! I have had too many recalls to count. My AUX device messed up and I had to have that fixed to listen to music on a phone. I had paint chipping and rusting after only two years of having. I am so disappointed in this car. There are other things that have messed up way before they should have but I can't remember them all! I need to buy a new car for myself so my child can have this car, but I can't afford a new car AND keep up with the maintenance on this lemon.
The most common "Overheating" problem I found with this and other similar engines is the design location of the the thermostat is wrong. Common sense - the thermostat should be placed in-line at the engine "Output" to detect the heat quickly and stay open when hot. Remove the thermostat and also block the hot "bypass" return hose with a wood piece cut from shovel handle that fits tight into hose. No more overheating and pump is not restrained. If you live in cold climate just add an aftermarket in-line thermo at the engine hot outlet hose. The 2003 plastic thermo assembly has the hot outlet running inside-thru the cold return ...and the thermostat is placed into the mix. You can easily knock-out the copper element of this thermostat so the flow is always open, and use the extended spring to hold the plate to keep the hot port hole closed. Also use a small bolt to closeup the small bypass hole in the plate. On others, you will also need to cut the thermo loose to reinstall just the outer o-ring or seal.

Once the engine has overheated - you may need to check/fix/replace old plastic parts if leaks are seen from being over-pressured. Also - spark plugs tubes seals may now leak oil into plugs causing misfires. Check and clean, RTV seal or replace valve cover seals.
Extremely practical, very roomy. Good at everything, bad at nothing. A/C could blow colder, and ride is a bit harsh, but I love this vehicle. The AWD is excellent. Superb gas milage. 30000 miles with NO ISSUES WHATSOEVER. Added roof rack for hauling long items. Added hitch for small trailer and bike rack. All day comfort, good handling, and descent acceleration even without the turbo. I highly recommend this vehicle to anyone!!!
Bought my 2009 LS 460 new and still own it. I'm extremely pleased with it. I have not had a single repair and only routine maintenance since I've owned it. Amazing car - it's certainly not sporty but it is extremely luxurious, comfortable and surprisingly fast as well.
I have driven my 94 Cabriolet 16 0f its 21 years since 1999 (90,000 mi. then, 155,000 mi. now). The basics have been very reliable. The electrical stuff not so much. I have averaged only 4,000 mi/yr with this vehicle as I ride my motor and bicycle, too.

Things that have performed poorly include the automatic top, I have raised and lowered it manually since its newly replaced ($1300)computer failed early on. It doesn't take more than a minute for me to do it manually. The cruise control computer also failed; never has been repaired; the CD player and the speakers are crap. The automatic antenna has been problematic. The two lower of four fan speed switches gave up the ghost many years ago. The heated leather seat elements failed and the seat tilt releases haven't worked for a while. The rear plastic brittle window has been replaced by me twice with new plastic hand sewn and sealed into a 1" border left from the old window. Dealer labor cost of replacing the dealers $600 piece of plastic is another $600,iirc (it requires a special alignment tool). A local upholsterer sold me a large enough piece for $15 and it is weathertight.

Never has had or needed any work done on the engine, knock on wood, during my ownership except regular oil and quality oil filter changes as well as ATF and Coolant changes. I did once replace the oil pan after bottoming out. I changed the spark plugs once and added some fuel treatment which fixed a rough idle once. The timing belt, waterpump and thermostat were replaced just before I took possession and need to be done soon. The transmission was replaced recently which was probably due to a leak I caused when changing the fluid/filter but technicians never have dialed in correctly the new one and they are, by reputation, a very good shop. I live with the slightly jerky shifting.

I have replaced the front struts, axles (CV joints), and some other worn front end parts and the front brake rotors/ pads once as well. The brakes are awesome. This vehicle has plenty of hp at 174, can do 80mph redlined in 2nd gear, and with its short wheelbase and wide track, handles the twisties great. It has had a very small PS fluid leak for a long time. Currently it needs a new engine coolant temperature sender.

She is still a 21YO stylish beauty especially with her top down and I ride her hard when the coast is clear. With the windows and windscreen up and heater on high, this convertible with coat, gloves and hat is quite comfortable on a dry winter NW day. The top is of very high quality, quiet and insulated well and so is warm or cool because the heater and a/c is more than adequate.

This vehicle (not mine) should be a collector car. It was way ahead of its time. I have even used it as a work vehicle in good weather as loading tools, supplies or groceries, a bicycle or even some furniture is a snap when the top is down. Some body parts are very hard or impossible to obtain these days
Bought a used 2011 Aveo LT with 30 thousand miles. Overall, the car performs as a compact front wheel drive car does. The mileage is average and comfort is at bare minimum. Tire pressure indicator always lit: annoying... seat belts that refuse to retract properly causing the door to bounce off the buckle half the time instead of just closing: aggravating... The check engine light indicator that stays lit for no apparent reason: Infuriating!!! When driving at 65 and over, beware of strong winds... On the road, in a split second I was literally jerked into the next lane by a strong gust of wind. But other then that, it's not a bad little car.
I have had 3 buick regal gs white All have lost their paint Anyone have a suggestion or the same problem
Nowadays cars are usually equipped with a chip that prevents it from "auto-locking" if the keys are in the vehicle. But this happened last night and the owners manual containing the default manufacture's unlock code, is in the glove box! Called a locksmith and they couldn't even get in it. Now my only option is to pay to have it towed to the dealer where they'll hook it up to expensive machines to unlock it but all of it being an "out of pocket expense!" FORD.... (Found On Road Dead).
Turbo, limp home mode, leaky top, hard to start, dies at idle, convertible malfunction due to faulty leaky high pressure line, just to name a few issues. I can not believe that recalls are not on any of the obvious stated above. Crap.
I have a 2008 Silverado crew cab W/T that was ordered with every option except cruise control The only problem I have had is the front passenger door lock actuator went out just after the warranty was up so I ordered a replacement from parts geek.com and replaced it myself. I can't complain it has 86,893 miles on it now and still getting great mileage for a V-8 I think I will keep this one for as long as possible I usually get a new one after five years but this one only cost me $18,000 at the end of 2008 and it still looks new
Hello,
I am the owner of a 2006 Scion Xa. I have had to replace the Very expensive emissions system twice! Charcoal canister, etc. Three Electrical window motors, and on and on. I bogs down going up hills, it is a piece of Junk! No recalls on anything I have had to replace. Back to American cars for me!!!!
I bought my 08 accent used at 123,000 km and let me tell you.....this car is the worlds biggest piece of shit!

I am now at 234,000km and everything and I mean EVERYTHING is failing! I have done all the maintenance, replaced all my coils 4 times! My alternator, ball joints wheel bearings (the first replacement they didnt even last 10,000km). The heat doesn't even get warm in the winter ( I live in Canada) it handles like a loose sloppy whore even with snow tires, and now my power steering is gone..... now I know it sounds like 234,000km is alot.....not really I have a Plymouth voyager last me 750,000km! I do my own work, ive been around cars my whole life, every nut and bolt is replace properly and tourqed to spec, so its not my workmanship it is just a serious piss poor product. Hyundia can serious take this car and shove it up their collective asses! Im going back to Ford!
I have had my car since 1997, I bought it used, the previous owner/mechanic did not take care of the cooling system, thus I had to replace the engine, however, since then, it's new owner, my son has been enjoying it for the past three years with a few minor problems. I am replacing the clutch cable, for the first time, and am having trouble connecting it to the clutch pedal...
My very first car: a 2006 VW Beetle. About 101,000 on it when I bought it. I got into a small fender bender back in early April that required me to change the headlight and replace the front bumper. No problems. Except this is November now.And I am still having issues. Replacing the headlight took several months (because the first headlight replacement fell out in traffic on the feeder) and I still often get pulled over because it's gone out, and I have to demonstrate to the police that I have to either push or kick it back into place. I am constantly coming out of pocket for repairs - so often that I can't afford to pay off the car, nor can I save up any money for anything else. By now, I've paid more in repairs than the worth of the car itself. Nobody wants to do anything to try and do extensive repairs on it except for Volkswagen dealerships (which I can't afford). A mechanic actually told me that I essentially punched a hole in my wallet by purchasing a Volkswagen, because once they start having issues, they just keep piling up and never go away. I can't see myself ever purchasing one again, much less recommending one to a friend.
Bought my cirrus for 500 dollars drove for 1 1\2 years with only having to put tires on it now I think the fuel pump has went out of it haven't decided whether to fix it or just get rid of it. But has been a very dependable car.
The Fox Body Mustang is a small car that could be had with a big engine in its day. It remains a popular enthusiast's car today given the large number of aftermarket and performance parts that are available for Fox Mustangs. There was a big difference in the "seat-of-the-pants" acceleration between the automatic overdrive and the T-5 transmission models. The T-5 offering a lot more efficient delivery of engine power to the rear wheels. The biggest drawback of the Fox Mustang was a weak unibody that flexed way too much and plagued the car with squeaks and rattles due to its stiff suspension. The front seat frames were poorly constructed by Ford with most becoming broken over the years. The powertrains in the Fox Mustangs were fairly durable taking plenty of abuse from spirited drivers. Unmodified cars are hard to find today, with most not being worth the time or effort to restore.
A comfortable car delivering good fuel economy, low tailpipe emissions, excellent cargo space and reasonable reliability. Despite restyled Malibu models, GM continued to produce this car as a classic model due its desirable size and economy. GM had achieved consistency in manufacturing quality with this model. Virtually all 1999 3.1 liter J-code Malibu's exhibited the same component failures such as brake problems, leaking intake manifold gaskets, air conditioner control head failures and many more The interior of these cars was better finished than newer models of the Malibu and held up well over time. The clear coat pain was also improved from prior years delivering nearly 15 years of durability before burnout. Despite improved quality over prior GM models, Malibu durability in the long run was still lacking with most ready for the scarp yard at or before 150,000 miles.
Great car but difficult to understand complexity and if dealers would be consistently honest and affordable this car would be more of a pleasure to own.
I have a 2011 Jetta TDI, turbo went out at 103,000 cost ~$1100 the particulate filter is about to need replace, cost near ~$1200 for just filter, timing belt kit ~250-$380 w/ water pump, recommended. All this only estimated cost. The labor cost for these works approximately $4000. So all together you are looking to pay about $7000-$8000 for these services. These issue my come one after the other closely after the 100000 miles. Before this millage point no single issue with my car. I would say this mileage your car worth about $9-12K I am not sure how anyone can justify paying these high maintenance cost, which comes after each other or altogether. VW does not document all this hidden expensive services. I would say if the car was originally was about $100K this maintenance cost might be expectable, but not for this category car. I have not mentioned the $300-$400 cost every 40KMiles forth e transmission. So think twice before you buy these and might be other VWs. I would recommend looking Toyota or Honda. Good luck.
I just got rid of my 2010 acura mdx at 140K miles. For the last 2 years I have had to spend $4K a year in repairs. Recently I noticed that the transmission lost 2 quarts of fluid in less than 40K miles and the engine oil level went down 2 quarts in less than 4K miles. I couldn't wait to get rid of this. It was a money pit. I thought this would last at least 200K miles. I could have/should have purchased a ram 1500 or ford truck. I would have gotten at least as good if not better gas mileage and had a more durable vehicle. On top of that the luxury levels for the price of the truck vs the acura mdx would have been very close... Lesson learned though... I will NEVER EVER buy another Acura again. Even the Acura dealership, where I always got it serviced at, said it was only worth $2K to $4K. What a joke... Also I had to upgrade the high beams to HID because they were not bright enough. IF you only plan on keeping it for less than 80K miles then there is no issue...if you plan on keeping it for longer then you better have a large cash savings to pay for the repair bills. Oh yeah... I forgot to mention that the engine was knocking hard...either a piston or rod was failing in the engine. I could understand this if I didn't maintain it properly...I did take it to the Acura dealership for all services.
Engine get warm maybe the SAE 5 30 is too thin for the engine. My coolant tank had to be replaced as the float stopped working. The car drinks the engine oil too and also consumes the coolant. Catalytic converters went bad (2400 parts + 500 labor + 150 diag). I was covered in the Federal Emissions warranty of 70,000 miles and thus lucked out. CATS system fault which is a cheeky suspension fault costed me 1500$. And Now I have another engine light on :)

Unfortunately, I love my car and thus like its design. I hope the newer models have resolved the issue.

OH the 19" cool rims are fragile and susceptible to damage easily and causes air leaks.Its a huge bummer !
I have a G37 2010 convertible with 20000 miles and the dash is crack in different dash area.
I had nothing but constant problems with my vehicle. I purchased in it 2011. Got rid of it in 2015 4 years later. 1000 invested but continued problems. oil pressure sensor failed, car stuck in park , it would not shift out of park position, service air bad light, traction and stability control has been my worse problem cause the engine ti reduce power. It stopped on my husband as he was on a n incline in the middle of the street. The car would accelerate when he pressed the gas. The traction control and stability control lights comes on continually. Every 3 minutes of driving. The transmission started to go bad. Rear defroster stopped working. I would NEVER by this car again! Nothing but expense problems. Then final straw was failing transmission and air bags.
I bought my 2004 Camry in 2009 with 40,000 miles. Still going 158,000 miles later with regular maintenance and very little repair. Plan to keep my Camry as long as it runs! Love my Camry!!
Loved this little car. Only complaints were that air conditioning was weak and the low profile tires, while good looking, make the ride a tad rough. I know it's a sporty little wagon but you definitely felt it on poor California roads.

Oh and the rear view mirror causes a huge blindspot at four-way stops! Especially for this long-torso guy!
I have a 2011 Nissan Versa with only 77k miles. Check engine light kept coming on but then go off. I also noticed the oil was reading low often even after oil change and topping it off. The next time the check engine light came on it was blinking and engine started to run rough. I had it towed to a reputable mechanic in town to get a diagnostic and found out the #3 cylinder had very little to no compression and the spark plug was full of oil. That's where my oil was going and why it was reading low. I now need a new engine! During my research I noticed similar issues not just with Versas but with other models so I contacted Nissan USA to find out what they're doing about this issue. Customer service issued me a case number and told me to take it to an authorized Nissan dealer for diagnosis and of course had to pay for again. That way Nissan consumer affairs will review my case. I did that and Nissan consumer affairs will not do anything to help repair my car. Says they are not able to financially assist at this time. What the heck does that mean? Nissan does not back their product nor do they care that their vehicle has already gone to crap at under 100,000 miles. I will definitely never ever recommend Nissan.

If anyone has similar issues please reply to my email at jenn1ca@me.com. I am not done or willing to accept Nissan's response and will be putting up a fight on this and could use all the help I can get.
Bought my 2006 Trailblazer in 2010/2011 with 68k miles on it and initially liked it (first two years), but four years later (127k miles) nothing but trouble. This Chevy is a piece of JUNK IMO. Terrible design, cheaply built, junk parts, etc. I get it the vehicle is almost 10 years old, but come on. Does every part HAVE to be designed to fail after 100K when you pay 30+ thousand dollars brand new? ridiculous!

I am going to think long and hard before buying another GM product when the time comes and warranty will be EVERYTHING important as the brand. This is the second GM vehicle I've owned (I'm 35) and as soon as they hit 100k it seems like you might as well buy a second one and rotate them back and forth to the shop. TONS of costly repairs in my experience. Let me list a few for perspective buyers who are thinking about buying this vehicle used (they stopped making TBlazers back in 2009).


Remember these are issues and parts I've had to replace in just the past two years. Replaced: 2 Water pumps (AC delco thing probably a lemon), fuel pump, 2 hub bearings, ac condenser unit & compressor, 2 ignition coils, windshield wiper pump and failed door locks).


Issues I'm currently having: malfunctioning interior lighting, rear stereo speakers malfunctioning & shorting out, rear defrost totally failed, leaky intake manifold, leaky radiator and malfunctioning alternator. There are a few other items I can't think of at the moment, but you get the picture. This vehicle has cost me THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS of dollars the past two years and it has been on thing after another. OEM parts suppliers and dealerships are making a fortune off people who keep these beastly vehicles outside of the warranty period.

Performance wise it gets terrible fuel economy (even for an SUV/truck at barely 14 mpg with a 6 cylinder engine), features a clunky prehistoric era transmission, terrible uncomfortable seats typical of GM vehicles (not sure how they can't figure this out) and the list goes on. I'm disappointed and not happy. This might be my last GM product.
Currently driving my #7 Beetle ! And proud of it at 70 ! All the Beetles I've purchased for myself and my children over the years have been WONDERFUL. I currently drive a 2002 Beetle hatchback. I've read the comments and complaints, may I suggest. .....Research and find a reliable repair shop. Do ALL THE maintance as scheduled, use the CORRECT gas, oil and such. Maintain and care for your car. Don't let things go. I've had brand new cars and I've had some neglected wrecks. The secret is to maintain and care for your car, regardless of where it was made. Car care is like raising children. ..keep a close eye, work together, don't let things go, show lots of love and appreciate.
I am disappointed with the 2013 Santa Fe with the life of the rotors and pads so far as I know just the front end. I noticed a low growling sound when I would apply the brakes at speeds over 35 MPH so I took it to my mechanic iv'e been with and trust for 18 years, and he tells me that my front rotors and pads need replaced. The issue I have is there is only 20,000 miles on my car. I took it to the dealer and they said that no way are my rotors shot that whoever said this was trying to make money on me. When I told them how long I had been with this mechanic and that he had taken the time to show me the specs for the rotors in the book and then showed me the measurement on the rotors he said that there must have been a defect in the rotor material for them to fail so I said so this will be covered under Hyundais wonderful warranty and he said, of no, brakes fall under normal wear and tear. I said didn't you just contradict what you just said before when you told me there must be a defect in the material of the rotors so that would not be normal wear and tear and he said, without looking up from his screen, sorry but it falls under normal wear and tear. Obviously I can't wait to fight hyundai over the issue because they need done yesterday, but I am going to take it up with the Manager and if he says it's not covered then I will open a complaint with Hyundai Corporate. I should have just kept my 2010 Santa Fe but with the body and interior restyling I couldn't resist. Live and learn