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Q: Car dies on Drive or Reverse when brake is pushed to a Halt. on 2002 Nissan Sentra

I bought a used 2002 Nissan sentra B15 automatic transmission for Christmas. It was given to me after it was fully painted until the third week of January. Since then I have had problems with the car when in drive or reverse it all of a sudden turns off when you press the brake and come to a halt. Three mechanics have seen it and I'm still not paying the last past to the guy that sold it to me because of this problem.
1. The guy that sold it to me took it to his mechanic were all the injectors were cleaned.
2. I still had the problem and then took it to my mechanic. He changed the positioning sensor which is very specific for these types of cars. He then replaced the gasoline injector pump with a brand new Bosch type pump which is located inside the fuel tank. And the last thing he did was change the catalytic muffler which he says that this type of Sentra is unique and carries 2. One on the exhaust pipe, and one right in the motor.
I picked up the car this weekend and it no longer is shaking when i come to a stop. The ride and the motor noise is smoother, but once I have been driving for 10 minutes it suddenly dies on me for no apparent reason on a red light or stop sign. It even dies on me in reverse. It sounds to me electrical or it's not receiving enough gas through the chambers or pistons. Both mechanics have told me that the 4 spark plugs are fine and the there quality is superior made out of Iridium?
Please help me. Buying my first car has been a nightmare due to what seems a simple dumb problem to fix.
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If is easy to duplicate then should be able to see what is missing when it dies, spark or fuel. From what you are saying it never happens when driving but only at a crawl or slow speed when apply the brakes? Is that correct? Are the throttle position sensor readings good? Any cel?
Thanks for the help. I will look in to the throttle sensor. Where is it located?
At the beginning when I first got the car it was turning off every time I came to a halt or crawl. After all the things that they have done, it's gotten better. But after I have been running the car for about ten minutes it dies on me all of a sudden, with no apparent symptom when I have the break pressed for more than a minute in traffic or at red light.
Last week they changed the positioning sensor which is on the left hand side of the motor when standing in front of the motor with the hood up. I asked him about the electrical wiring in the car and he said that he had checked everything and that all was well. I even had the motor cleaned because everything was so dirty.
The sensor the he changed last week was the crankshaft position sensor. I'm going to ask him about the throttle sensor..
Thanks for thre insight...
As I said, since can die and duplicate prob easily, then look for what is missing when dies, spark or fuel.
You had said in you past comment to me: “If is easy to duplicate then should be able to see what is missing when it dies”
What do you mean by this?
What does duplicate mean?

I picked up the car again from the mechanic. This type of car has 4 distributers on top of the motor. Distributer #2 from left to right wasn’t working well. He told me that the electricity in the distributer was good. That he changed a small coil which is located inside.
I picked up the car last night and the car still stalls when the brakes are placed at a corner or red light. The minimum doesn’t seem to stay at 800 or 900. It drops to 600 to 500 and after about a minute the engine stalls.
I think the mechanic has no idea what else to do. I’m going to reset the cars computer so that the “Check Engine” light turns off. I’m going to have to wait for the light to come back on again and then I can have it read by the computer.
My patience is growing thin. I’ve been with this problem for almost 2 months now. It’s time consuming taking it to and from the mechanic and once it stalls up again frustration kicks in.

Another thing is since I have to be placing the automatic gear in Neutral when I get to a corner stop or red light, when I place the car in Drive gear again several times I do this the gear seams to not kick in. I place Drive and it doesn’t kick in. When I accelerate from being in Neutral to Drive the gear in first doesn’t change to second gear. I have had this happened to me several times. They told me that since the car is above acceleration when in Neutral, it’s a defense mechanism for the motor not permitting the gears to shift from first to second because it’s to accelerated. Is this true?
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