2009 Audi A4 Quattro Questions

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My engine light keeps coming on amd a sign saying epc then car is loosing power asif no petrol supply or fuel lines arnt supplying petrol to car it hesistated to go
About half way over sounds like it takes a breath and klunks out does not stop key from coming out anymore all lights and key fob acting accordingly I heard u any have to reprogram the cumouter after replacing battery or could this be a start issue?
How much will it cost to put new brake pads and rotors on the Audi
u should pay for my oil bill ur very unhappy audio owner thank you
What is the proper procedure to retime everything?
Just started occurring
My car is at Audi now , I've never used this dealer. I got complete inspection and diagnostics for $100 at the other Audi dealer a hour away. This one quotes me $228 for each complaint they check. $228 yo check the creaking sound in front. $228 to check why it's overheating. $228 to check high revving thing it's doing. Is it just me or is that the most ridiculous thing you've ever heard ? I feel like I'm getting jacked.
2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0L TFSI

Had oil leak from rear main seal area and CEL lights on. Diag codes pointed me to replacing the PCV valve and I also replaced all 4 coils andspark plugs, air filter and cleaned mass air flow sensor. Also changed oil and oil filter. Since replacing PCV valve the oil leak appears to have stopped with a few days of the oil that had turbo blowby finally draining out.

Diag codes had dropped from 22 to just 4 codes left. P1287 (too lean / vacuum leak) and P0300-0303 misfires on all 4 cylinders. The car was running fine but a but rough at idle. Attributed to too lean mixture. Reset systems with battery unhook and touching positive to ground and then after hooking back up did a throttle alignment. CEL was still on but car drove fine, no rough idle, perfectly normal driving. Would even say it was driving as well as day 1 with turbo power and smoothness. No noticeable misfires. Just the CEL with P2187 and the 300-303 misfires still lit up. Over past week the following codes have crept into the equation. 


So now I've got codes regarding fuel press or sensor, air intake leak, vacuum leaks, and cylinder misfires.

Now if I clear the CEL. The car runs rough at idle, in park, drive, whatever.. at idle it's rough and misfiring like it wants to stall. When the CEL comes back on after a short amount of time the car returns to driving normally. So I feel like the ECU must be compensating for something and normalizing the car properly. At this point I'm stuck on what to do next. Should I change the fuel pressure sensor? Smoke thevacuum hoses? Or just continue to drive it as is with CEL on for next year and a half until I get the amount owned left on the finance of the vehicle to get rid of it without getting killed financially. I have a mechanic friend who is helping me out with troubleshooting and I cannot afford to take this to a dealership for repair, but I feel like we are close to getting this squared away and just need to either fix a hose or replace a sensor and we will be home. Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Sometimes when I lock with fob it locks but no beep sounds. Then when I unlock the passenger door won't unlock. Or all will unlock but driver side. It's very random. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. What is the problem and can I fix it myself? Seems like an electrical issue or fuse ...... Please help
Began suddenly after getting on highway. Then continued on the drive home with acceleration. I've read it could be the speed sensor. If so how much might this cost to fix?
I am replacing brake pads and rotors. Thought the pads came with the sensor(s) and need to know if I should order one sensor or two.
According to the dealership the front brake pads are completely worn. They want to replace the rotors at the same time. This seems excessive, particularly given the low mileage.
What is the costs torepair a cuputer in the Audi -A4
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