94 Mazda Protege LX Sedan 1.8L DOHC tuned up, (wires,plugs cap rotor and replaced vacumn hose air intake hose to valve cover) ran great for 2 days. Engine shut down suddenly and no start. No spark, coil ok, no fuel but bypassed system and pump runs great. Tested with test light to neg side of coil while cranking but it does not light up at all. Is the ignition control module bad? in this case that means a new distributor as it is integral to distributor. Am I looking at this right?
Why won't my car start? on 1994 Mazda Protege
by SPBJR in Wilsonville, OR on January 26, 2013
1 answer 6 comments
ANSWER by goodguy on January 27, 2013
sounds like a bad distributor
COMMENT by SPBJR on January 27, 2013
Hey, tks it seems like it, I pulled the 4 pin connector from the distributor and based on wiring diagram the distributor has good power and ground, but the ignitor leads have nothing when cranking or with just the key in the on position, therefor nothing is going to the coil when cranking. My understanding is that it must send a signal to the pcm in order for it to fire the coil and energize the pump???
COMMENT by arnoxi on December 14, 2013
I'm wondering if you ever found out what happened to your car. I have a 1991 Mazda Protege LX. I have been having a hard time getting it to start for a while, but eventually it would. I was driving it today and it just stopped working while driving. It felt like everything quit working, check engine light came on, and now it's turning over but won't start. We started by checking the distributor. It had a little oil in it, but we tested the coil pack and it wasn't working. It's like I'm getting no power/spark to the coil pack and have no idea where to go from here!
Wondering as well if you remember what the answer was to your Mazda not starting. I have the same issue, no spark, ignitor checked out good, coil ohmed out good to, new wires still no spark. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much, Ben.
most of the older style Mazdas Toyotas etc are prone to having distributor problems ,a lot of times they start fine cold but after they warm up they shut down and wont start again until it cools off and the only thing u can do is replace the dist...
Thanks for taking the time to try and give me some advice...darn, it's freezing out ;) lol, so it wasn't a temperature thing..I don't think and the car had been running down the highway initially but then just quit...thank God my son was able to pull off to the side of the road and have it towed home. It has no fire, nothing coming out of the "coil", no spark but it ohms our according to the book specs right on the money??? I took the ignitor/"ignition control module" as Autozone likes to call it in and they tested it over and over again and it never failed? I tested the ignition/key switch and all checked out in all modes too. We ordered another coil, what the heck it's just money, got a good price so we'll see in the morning hoping ;) The only thing that I still wonder about was the coil plug voltage. The book said to chk voltage while the switch was in the "ON" mode. I got like 12volts but only when I put one meter lead in one of the coil plug terminals and the other lead on the negative post of the battery...I was expecting to get the 12v by putting both leads in the coil plug but that didn't happen...Book wasn't clear on this, lead placement exactly so just not sure if what I got or didn't get was right or not?? Darn. Any mechanic with info so appreciated. Again, "no fire", thanks in advance, Ben ;)
so you have no spark ,did you check to see if u have fuel pressure if the car just quit while driving I would check ur timing belt as well
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