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1992 Dodge Dakota Question: Why is my 1992 Dakota V6 3.9 2X4 - Intermittent Stalling?

 

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NIU2013, 3.9L V6, New Hartford, NY, July 20, 2013, 10:36
 Rookie

Manual shift, V6 3.9 Sport with 134K on the clock. The truck is stalling when transitioning from being under load to no load. This is happening 99% of the time at very low speeds (when turning corners). Clutch is partially depressed around catch point, no gas pedal then stall. Truck can usually be restarted with some effort. To date, and in the following order the dealer has replaced 1.) the AIS sensor with a full fuel system cleaning/throttle. 2nd time back same problem, replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter. The 3rd time back the ASD relay. Today, after picking up from dealer and dealer saying all fixed, it stalled both when turning out of the dealership and also (for the first time) while just sitting in Neutral / idling. No codes are showing (OBD 1). Only one owner and truck has been well maintained over the years. Please help.

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  • Answer #1

    lightsaber July 20, 2013, 19:41
     Journeyman

    The IAC valve (intake Air control valve) attached to the throttle body is most likely plugged with carbon, or is defective. It controls the air entering the engine at idle, and during deceleration. Remove and clean it as well as the passage behind it, and reinstall, or have the dealer clean and test it. Good Luck!

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    NIU2013, July 20, 2013, 21:40
     Rookie

    Hi lightsaber,

    Thank you. I will mention to the dealer. No one has brought this part up in any discussions and it sure sounds like it could be the problem. I will reply with results.

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    lightsaber, July 21, 2013, 05:58
     Journeyman

    A new aftermarket IAC valve should cost less than $45.00, but dealer cost would be higher. It is held on by two torx screws, and has a wire connector on it. I just replaced the IAC valve on my ram 1500 which was defective and caused a hissing noise from the intake on acceleration. Good Luck on the repair, and Thank You for the feed back response!

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    NIU2013, July 21, 2013, 09:41
     Rookie

    Yep, sounds pretty straight forward. Had I had the time the first time it broke down, and, had I reached out to the forums before going to the dealer, something I could have / would have fixed myself. :( However, since the truck was towed back to dealer for the 4x, and I don't have a full set of Torx screws, I will check with them in the morning. Very frustrating and costly thus far. I will follow up with any news soon as I know more. Thank you.

    *********************
    It seems as though the AIS and the IAC are one and the same. This was the first part they replaced. So its not the AIS (IAC)/dirty throttle body, not the fuel pump/fuel filter, not the wire bundles.

    ********************
    UPDATE: Dealer says they don't know why truck is stalling. They shook some of the wire bundles but truck did not stall. So apparently it is not "the splice" problem so common to Gen 1 Dakota's. They think maybe its the PCM but it is just a guess. Dealer says every time the PCM loses power to stalling, it loses any stored code(s).

    UPDATE: Dealer is unable to figure out what is wrong. I am picking up the truck today. Very frustrating.

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    whitefawn21, August 01, 2013, 06:17
     Rookie

    I am having the same problem with my 2002 dakota have replaced everything mention and still does the ame thing

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    NIU2013, August 01, 2013, 07:02
     Rookie

    I got my truck back from the Stealership still with problem (new IAC/throttle body cleaning, fuel pump/filter, ASD relay, all grounds were ok'd and not "the splice" in Gen 1 problem). So, I decided to take a whack at it. Two people on other forums had mentioned to me it was likely a faulty MAP sensor. So I started there. I located the part in town and then installed it. $70. The truck is running noticeably better now. I could tell a difference immediately and especially when test driving. Starts up nice now. Much more power, and very smooth. Tachometer has smoothed out and truck in transitioning through corners easily now. During the test, I did not experience any power loss / stall (near or total). Before replacing I could tell when the power loss was going to happen and all that feeling is gone now. When I stop or turn now in low rpm the tach actually rises a bit instead of dropping to zero. I think this took care of my issue.

    Hope my update helps.

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