I replaced the master cyclender (twice and bench bled bolth). Replaced break booster. Removed A.B.S (in fear it was traping air) and put in tee fitings. Replaced all pads, disks, and drums. self adjusters work. Bled all lines longest to shortest from the master. Bled Untill no bubbles and then some. With the van NOT running it has full pedal. When started the pedal goes to the floor with little effort.
Why dont I have any brake power in my 1996 Chrysler. Town & country. LXI. 3.8L.. on 1996 Chrysler Town & Country
by Tim13 in Center Line, MI on December 16, 2011
ANSWER by patrick mannion on December 16, 2011
Take a pair of needle nose vise grips slide rubber hose o er each jaw of the vie grips and gently pinch ( not over tightly) the brake flex hose at each wheel then start the engine and press the pedal see if it better at this stage you are eliminating the calipers and caliper mounts in cause there is flex or failure. There is on a lot of cars a specific clearance between the back of the brake master cylinder and the brake booster push rod. Too little clearance will make the brakes drag. There is a brake bleeding tool we have at work, I can't think of its name, it pushes fluid through the open brake bleeder at wheel pushing air backwards to help get a good pedal.There is a company that independent auto repair shops get their information from, this same information is available inexpensively for people that work on their own cars.. The information is year make and model specific, covering repair procedures, torque specifications, fluid capacities and specifications, service bulletins, component locations, wiring diagrams ect.... Alldata is very easy to navigate http://bit.ly/AllData_Repair_Manuals_Online Maybe check Chrysler specific forums see if anyone else has experienced the same problem.
ANSWER by MB Center on December 16, 2011
need to do vacum test & look for leak .