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2003 Honda Accord Question: Why does battery have to be removed from the key, put back in for car to start?

 

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marcpilot1, Lexington, SC, February 05, 2014, 19:11
 Rookie

I have to take the round silver watch type battery out of the key, then pop it back in, close the key back up, all just to get my 2003 Honda Accord to start. It will sometimes start after the 5th or 6th try without taking the batt out and putting it back in but most of the time I have to remove it, pop it back in to get the car to start. It turns over great, just wont start until I take batt out and put it back in. I even bought a brand new battery from Radio Shack, same problem. Turns over great, wont start though until I move the battery around. (except for sometimes it atarts the 5th or so time without doing the battery trick) the green key light and blinks when it wont start but dont when it does start. Thanks a Lotttt for any help!

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  • Answer #1

    February 05, 2014, 19:25
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     Master

    Try cleaning the terminals for the battery. Got another key?

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    marcpilot1, February 05, 2014, 19:40
     Rookie

    No other keys unfortunately. I hope cleaning the terminals works! But I wonder if at the point that nothing works, is it possible to get another key somewhere other than Honda and it still work right. Like if I go to Honda its probably going to cost a lot but it will most certainly work right. If I can find a key somewhere else a lot cheaper is it going to need some kind of scanning a week later if it quits working, is it going to not work and I have to wait more days for another one that ends up needing to be programmed some special way at the dealership because a generic key just wont work or like is it going to need some bunch of codes I cant get or find to make it work. You know, things like all that. Or would a cheaper key from somewhere else work just fine. Thats what I worry about when ordering one from somewhere to save much needed money.

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    cardocIII, February 05, 2014, 19:47
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     Master

    We get Honda keys and program them for people all the time, it does not have to be done at a dealer. The keys range from about $20 to $60 (you don't have to have a fobbed key) As far as the no-start that needs to be diagnosed as it may simply be a coincidence, it should be generating some codes if there is a key identification issue.

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    pushrod, February 05, 2014, 19:47
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     Master

    Talk with a locksmith, they know the latest & greatest on this stuff, or should! Most of them are pretty slick!! *Like i said talk to a LOCKSMITH!
    Or wait, we got a Honda tech here, he can explain!

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    marcpilot1, February 05, 2014, 20:17
     Rookie

    Yea, no codes pertaining to key really. Did get the u0107(lost communication with throttle actuator control module) That and an o2 sensor code. But the green key light blinks, its like pushrod said, the contacts or terminals aren't hitting good. And when I move the round silver watch batt around in the key then put it back or slide it back in place, it cranks right up. Weird. Prob the terminals dirty or somehow broken a little bit. I assume a Honda dealer will want a lot for a key. There's no fob for it, just the key with a batt in it.

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    pushrod, February 05, 2014, 20:25
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     Master

    That sounds like a copy of the original key. I have seen some copies with the battery in them. The blinking green light is the immobilizer indicating a problem recongnizing the key!! Hang in there, the Honda tech will see this. And help us out, i hope!

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  • Answer #2

    February 06, 2014, 17:58
     Master

    Unfortunately the only thing I can offer , without 'hands on' testing , is to bring it to a dealer and have the immobilizer system checked. Hopefully you get a competent tech and give all symptoms and what you've experienced. Could be a faulty key module or the receiver (around ignition assembly) is going bad. How many keys do you have and do they all respond the same? Any security system problems or problems with keyless access? New master key , including programming is about $165.00 in the D.C. area , don't know about S.C.

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    marcpilot1, February 06, 2014, 18:31
     Rookie

    Just the 1 key unfortunately. No other issues. The starting problem has fixed itself since I put a new battery in the key. Its not the cr1616 though, its the same one as the one I took out. But when I put this new batt in, a cr1534, the car did finally start. Now, it takes 5 or 6 trys sometimes, or only 1 try sometimes, but it finally starts after about 3 weeks now. The green key light on dash doesnt flash when it does start. It flashes though when its not recognizing the key. But since I put this new batt in it is starting after about 5 trys. I'm getting a 1616 batt tomorrow I guess and see if that helps. Also theres no tiny screw in the bottom of the keys shell anymore. It was never there. I wonder if that has it loose just enough for it not to make a good connection but every now and then. And the wrong battery, I wonder if thats not making a perfect connection sometimes as well. The meter says the voltage on the 3volt batt is 2.3 volts. Its still in the green zone on the battery tester but who knows. Something is preventing the connection from being recognized and the immobilizer kicks in until it sees a signal. I assume the signal is not showing up either because the battery isnt the cr1616 or the shell or something. And Ziptie could be dead on too with the receiver starting to go bad. Hey, I appreciate all the help y'all have thrown my way. A lottt! Any info you all send helps me out. Thxxxx!

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    ziptie12, February 07, 2014, 17:44
     Master

    One other thing that I forgot to mention...The battery in the key is strictly for the keyless access system , not the Immobilizer system , that's why the valet keys don't need them. Valet keys are cheaper , but they still need to be programmed.

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  • Answer #3

    AOTL from All On The Line, February 06, 2014, 18:46
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     Enthusiast

    you're having an immobilizer system problem. The small battery you're describing is not the problem. The immobilzer system needs to be checked with Honda HDS type software and compatible hardware. I've also seen high resistance at the ground G101 cause this issue.

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    marcpilot1, February 07, 2014, 14:01
     Rookie

    ohhhh. And thats not something I can do with my obd2 actron cp9580scanner+ you think? I doubt it but worth a shot asking ya. And if I have to take it to the Honda dealers they Probably arent letting me outta there without a good size bill? Like a hundred or two at least? I wish there was a way to fix this at home. Like take out something from around or in the steering column or somewhere, put back a new whatever, and bam, its fixed. I have a you pull it yard near here, like 4 miles away with hundreds of cars that you can just take apart yourself and grab anything out of any car, they dont care or watch you do nothing. Is there something I can do at the ground g101 myself to maybe help? Thanks AOTL!!

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    AOTL, February 08, 2014, 02:15
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     Enthusiast

    AS far as the ground , G101, test it for unwanted resistance with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter. If you actually have an immobilizer unit failure, and you had a good used one, it would still need to be programmed to match the PCM. Again requiring Honda specific software.

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