1996 Volvo 850 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Took readings on chassis side connector, 1.32 volts. Understand it should be 5V. What's next? Code P0115 displayed when emission check run. Temperature normal, instrument at 3 o'clock
i've tried,new gas,injector cleaner.and tried cleaning the mass air sensor now it starts runs a couple of minutes then stalls do you think it is still the sensor?if i tap on the sensors housing while it's running the car runs differently is this normal?
Have tried several different things but nothing is working. Is there a specific line that needs to be purchased or a rinp or seal or cap?
what all does it control in the fuel system
PLUGS KEEP FOULING IS THAT THE WORSE THAT IM GOING TO HAVE
engine lopes at idle speed
car lopes while at idle
The impact occurred on the driver's side front fender. Most of the impact was absorbed by the wheel, which resulted in the following parts being replaced. 1. engine cradle 2. left front wheel 3. left front strut 4. left lower control arm 5. car was aligned 6. the drivers window had a broken track but their wasn't any visible damage to the door 7. the body damage was contained to the front bumper, cowl and fender but remember the brunt of the impact was on the wheel.
My A/C was blowing ice cold air before all this happened, a mechanic reported no visible leak other than a low side, hose seal by the evaporator. I was told this was an O-ring (is it?) I was told this was located on the passenger side of the car (opposite the point of impact) I was told the insurance would not pay for this maintenance. There is also an antenna that quit working after the crash which the insurance company would not pay for. The mechanic said it was a worn or broken worm gear. When it comes to taking my money the insurance company has no problem, it's the paying out part they have a problem with. Sweet Roll has 63000 miles on her.
Before the accident the air conditioning was working fine and so was the antenna .
After repair of the manifold, the alternator and the heater coil, the car steamed through the vents,oil light came on, now it stalls, and now does not start. It began to overheat after the alternator was replaced. A coil replacement then caused steam to fill the vents and the oil light kept coming on, even after I put in sufficient oil. Now the car stalls and battery resists charging and water does'nt retain in the reservior and the floor is wet.
engine misses only when putting extra load or accelerating. If you accelerate slowly and are careful about pushing it, seems to run fine. Died at stop sign. Would not restart. Towed to shop. Moisture in distributor cap. Replaced that and the rotor. Did ok a couple of days. Happened again. Moisture again. Replaced plugs, wires...bam...did it for mechanic before I got it back. Any insight appreciated.
Hooked up OBD2 and got codes PO705..trans Range Sensor & PNP switch...where are these located at? and are they hard to change?
lipped rotor, don't understand the terminology; can you advise?
Sometimes Throttle Loping ceases when Auto shifted into Neutral (while driving along); sometimes requires engine to be Shut Down. One one [the worst] occasion, Engine wouldn't re-start when Drive engaged, unless throttle was revving up before pulling into Drive. Dangerous when Volvo_850 accelerating/Loping windy-downhill on brakes, and needing to turn off to kill Loping !!
I was told they needed to take off the calipers, grind the pads? and put it all back together. No parts was needed, just labor.
Please tell me what this service would cost and I am looking for a repair shop close to my home in San Mateo. Thanks for your help.