Problem Description and Possible Solution
The intake manifold O-ring gaskets commonly leak, causing stalling and poor idle quality; the Check Engine Light will illuminate.
Average mileage: 135,430 (27,534–245,500)
Engines affected: 4.0L V6, 4.0L V6 SOHC, 4.6L V8, 5.0L V8
11 model years affected: 1995
, more2000, 2001, 2002, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
86 people reported this problem
Our 1998 Exploder has been doing this for several years, only the initial start of the day (ALWAYS does this when it gets cold, and worse as it gets colder)turn the key and it sputters and has troubling staying running for a few minutes, you have to nurse it to keep it running. I had replaced all the sensors over the years, new fuel filters, pump, and on and on...threw $100's of dollars at it, it never popped a code to tell me what was wrong with it...took it twice to the Ford dealer and all they could do is scratch their heads and tell me "We are not sure"...so, this past weekend I took the intake apart and cleaned out all the carbon and other gunk in it, used a (1/2 gallon of lacquer thinner and 3 cans of carb cleaner) put in NEW, upper and lower intake gaskets, put it all back together, and it started right up, and now it acts like a new motor, it has a lot more giddy up to it. This morning it was in the upper 30's and it popped right off and ran like it never has in the past few years. So, yep, I fixed it! It took me about 4 hours to accomplish it. Worth every dime and hour spent..oh yeah the gaskets were only about $25...sure wish I had known about this a long time ago.
rough idle and dies whenever i come to a stop and or start the car... seems to run fine when you drive and accelerate although as it warms you begin to feel hesitation upon acceleration...also there is a distinct hiss. hiss. hiss hiss. hiss....sound coming from the area of the intake so... my initial thought was the intake manifold... however on a diagnostic test it pulled codes for a faulty egr valve and a failed cam shaft sensor... replaced those as well as the maf sensor and I still have the same problem... so it brings me back to my original thought of it being a cracked intake... sealed the joints of the intake manifold with jbweld and replaced the O rings... result .... same problem..... Is it possible for these intakes to crack on the inside? because i still believe its the manifold that is the problem... I just have spent too much on parts i didnt need thus far, and would like to feel more confident that its a manifoldcrack on the inside before i spend the $400 for a new one...
2001 explorer sport, stalls out when cold. runs ok after warm up but.engine light is always on with three problem codes, have already had new plugs and wires,fuel injector replaced, intake manifold gasket, MAF sensor, and idle control. still have the problem and codes. mechanic says he needs to do a "smoke" test. running out of patience and money.
rough starting only when cold, runs rough for 5 min and then is fine once it warms up.
Vacuum leak from intake manifold O-ring gaskets.
The intake manifold O-ring gaskets leak, causing stalling and poor idle quality; the Check Engine Light will illuminate. Only happens while engine is cold. Gaskets seal after engine warms up.
Rough running, stalling, extremely low gas milage.
Purchased intake gasket kit planning to install this week (10-8-11)
Rough idle, no check engine light or codes set. Scanned and got readings of 0 volts all O2 sensors, all fuel trim values were -100. Replaced intake manifold O-rings.
poor idle rough running engine light on misfires on 1 and 2 cylinder in shop now
BAD INTAKE MANIFOLD O-RING GASKETS
rough idle and check engine light on!
intake manifold o ring gaskets are in need of replacement. I continually have various and numerous problems with fuel system. Is this typical for 2000 ford explorer sport 4x4. Have been pumping too much money into repairs and was hoping to get 300,00 miles on it!! I really do not want to buy a new one. Any ideas or suggestions??
Was a code p0106 has misfire and ideals rough
when cold engine will not idle on its own you have to set with foot on gas or it will cut off
shop cut and then welded new pipe to solve problem without replacing entire system
Dealership stated about $500 to correct but may have other issues once they are pulled off. Also needs all new plugs and wires, another $500. With additional testings dealer has padded the bill to $1800. Is this SUV worth it?????
repair was 350$ at dealer- upper and lower intake gaskets replaced
i changed my intake and the oring did not fit even afer buying a new one
600.00 to fix by a ford dealer, sounds high to me
ruff idle reving rpms when it starts up stalling in park
As I type this, my Explorer sits in a Firestone repair shop across the street because my CHECK ENGINE light came on yesterday--the first time I have seen this light. The shop just called and said I needed a new gasket for my upper intake manifold. I googled this issue and found your site and read several entries that helped me decide what to do before giving them the go-ahead to fix it. They charged me $99 for the diagnostic to find the problem, so I told them if they will waive the diagnostic and just charge me the $244 to replace the gasket, go ahead and do it. My alternative solution was to pay the $99 for the diagnostic, and have an auto repair place fun a check on the exhaust to see if my sensors were working. But that takes time and it's getting colder outside, so I feel like for $244, I am fixing the root of the problem. Thanks to everyone for helping this woman make a decision about something she knows very little about!