Utah Imports

(801) 657-3696
25 Verified Reviews

8:30am to 6:00pm
8:30am to 6:00pm
8:30am to 6:00pm
8:30am to 6:00pm
8:30am to 6:00pm


33 E Herbert Ave
Salt Lake City, UT 84111 USA


  • Jeff Keller, Owner
  • Established 1986
  • 5 Auto Repair Mechanics on Staff
  • 1 ASE Certified Auto Technician
  • 80 Years of Car Repair Experience

Utah Imports Reviews


25 Verified Reviews
5 stars
4 stars
3 stars
2 stars
1 star
by - Verified Customer March 11, 2015

They are honest, they don't do unnecessary work and they communicate very well.

by - Verified Customer March 11, 2015

They're professional, courteous, affordable, efficient, everything you would ever want. They're just the best.They're a ten.

by - Verified Customer March 10, 2015

They are honest, they do the work at the price they quote. They have quick turnarounds, they get the work done quickly.

by March 10, 2015

They are always professional. Previously I had a bad experience with a car dealership. I have a diesel car and they put in oil for a regular car, not a diesel. I took my car to Utah Imports they explained why my car stopped. Ever since then I feel comfortable taking my car to them. They are experienced and knowledgeable of my car.

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by - Verified Customer March 05, 2015

I like the reliability of their work and timeliness. They stand behind their work and address any issues if they come up.

by - Verified Customer March 04, 2015

They communicate well, they understand what needs to be done to your vehicle. If I had a new car that was under warranty I would still go to the dealership, but if I had a car that wasn't under warranty I would go to these guys.

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by - Verified Customer March 04, 2015

They are a quality company that does quality work.

by - Verified Customer March 02, 2015

Very reasonable pricing, very knowledgeable in what they do and what they recommend. They are easy to work with. They are pleasant human beings and the customer service is above average.

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by - Verified Customer March 02, 2015

I have had good service every time I have been there, they are very honest people.

by - Verified Customer March 01, 2015

They are the only shop in the area that does quality work. After going to a few shops that I have had bad service with, I found these guys and have been going there since.

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by - Verified Customer February 26, 2015

They were amazing, they did all of the work I wanted.

by February 26, 2015

I am very happy with what they have done, they did the work they said they were going to and they charged fair prices.

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by - Verified Customer February 24, 2015

They always call me to let me know how much it will cost and I really trust them.

by - Verified Customer February 24, 2015

I always had very good service. They're timely and informative.

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by February 19, 2015

They have always done a good job, and I like the people that work there. They are very reputable, I have never heard anything bad about them.

by February 19, 2015

I have been mostly happy with them, they seem to be reliable and as far as I can tell they do good work.

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by February 17, 2015

They did their job correctly, they did all of the work I wanted without any problems.

by - Verified Customer February 17, 2015

Their prices are fair, thay are competent and they don't do any unnecessary work.

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by - Verified Customer February 15, 2015

I trust them because they make me feel comfortable every time I visit their shop.

by - Verified Customer February 11, 2015

They do a good job at fair prices, but they forgot to reset the trouble code after they were finished with the work so now I have to go back in so they can reset it for me.

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by - Verified Customer February 09, 2015

Experts service, they are fair and very reasonably priced.

by - Verified Customer February 09, 2015

They did the work quickly, they were straightforward. They told me exactly what was wrong, they did the task quickly and they were very honest about the work they had to do.

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by - Verified Customer February 05, 2015

I think they do great work, and I think they are the only shop I can trust to work on an old Volkswagen van.

by - Verified Customer February 02, 2015

I had a bad experience both times I have been there, I went in with an issue with my car. They opened the sunroof and they broke it so it wouldn't close. They tried to charge me to fix my sunroof even though it wasn't broke when I went in. I also went in for an oil change, my car takes synthetic oil which is expensive as it is and they wrote down that I needed to come back in after 3000 mile for another oil change.

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by - Verified Customer February 01, 2015

They do great work, they are very reputable and you get a good value for the money.

RepairPal Scorecard


The South State Street location of Utah Imports has been serving the local community since 1986. This RepairPal Certified shop strives to stay on top of the latest technologies and to be a leader in the local community by providing the highest level of automotive repair coupled with the best customer service. Our review of this shop revealed they are achieving this goal. Recent customers describe this team as “honest”, “reliable”, “professional”, "courteous", and “amazing”. This location features a team of automotive professionals lead by an ASE Master Technician and they are focused on repairing select import makes. They are well equipped to handle repairs ranging from tires and wheel alignment, to minor and major mechanical repairs, to check engine light and computer system diagnoses and repair, as well as your scheduled maintenance needs. Repairs are covered by a 12-month / 12,000-mile warranty for your peace of mind. Local shuttle service, rental vehicles, early bird drop off, and a waiting area with wireless Internet are all available for your convenience.



  • AC/Heating
  • Alignment
  • Check Engine Light
  • Classic Car Repair/Restoration
  • Diagnosis
  • Muffler & Exhaust
  • Oil Change & Lube
  • Scheduled Maintenance
  • Service & Repair
  • Timing Belts
  • Tire Sales/Repair
  • Transmission Repair
+ More


  • Early Bird Dropoff
  • Free Estimates
  • Free Multi-Point Safety Inspection
  • Heated Waiting Room
  • Parts/Accessories
  • Rental Car
  • Service Guarantee
  • Shuttle
  • Warranty Accepted
  • Wireless Internet
+ More


  • Bosch Service Network


Utah Imports has been providing quality independent auto repair and service in the Salt Lake Valley since 1959. As a certified Bosch Service Center, Utah Imports maintains the highest standards for automotive parts and service. We are very active in our local community and are proud to have been named "Best of the Beehive" by Salt Lake Magazine.


  • Audi
  • Subaru
  • Volkswagen
Questions Answered by Utah Imports
What is wrong with the car and is it repar...
The white smoke was most likely coolant from a leak hitting the exhaust. If the engine quit running it probably overheated due to low coolant which will cause damage to the internal engine parts. First step would be to find and repair the original coolant leak, then test for head gasket leaks internal and external. The engine will typically suffer from piston slap due to collapsed piston skirts. Never drive a car until it quits because it almost always leads to expensive collatoral damage.
Just put new coolant outlet flange on car ...
This is a common problem. Several things can fail like the water pump has a plastic impeller that cracks and spins on the shaft causing poor coolant circulation. Pull the cap when cold and start engine, watch for coolant flow from small hose at top of reservoir. If there is no flow the pump is bad. Thermostats fail to open, we only use VW thermostats after replacing many failed aftermarket parts. Also check radiator fan operation, fans seize, control modules burn out, and the 30 amp fuses on top of the battery get high resistance and melt the fuse block. Engine coolant temp sensors (ECT) fail regularly but tend to just not read correctly. ECT is relatively cheap from VW and should be replace if readings are different in ECM and Instrument panel.
the car is a 2.8l v6 4 wheel motion
You will need to locate where the coolant is going first. Fill system and pressure test to 20psi. Install 3/8"Tee into bleeder hose at reservoir and apply air pressure to test system including cap, otherwise you will need the special adapter. Common leaks are cracks in plastic reservoir. Radiator and hose connections. Water pump leaks (original at 85K to 100K) Aftermarket pumps fail sometimes as early as 30K. Plastic thermostat housings warp and start leaking. As for the heater, they plug easily and won't work well if coolant is low. Never put stop leak in these cars beause it will plug the heater core. Fix the leak instead.
My heat went out this winter, it will come...
The blend door that seperates the air flow between hot and cold may not be working. If you had Manual controls the lever at the bottom of the heater box falls off and needs to be reinstalled. We make a small bracket to retain the lever and avoid future failures. Due to the gray foam in your vents I believe the blend door is deteriorated. The blend door has holes covered with this foam and it falls apart exposing the holes. When this happens neither heat or A/C work well. the hheater box will need to be removed and replace or reseal the blend door. The blower issue is the resistor or a bad contact in the connector from the fan switch. This system only uses vacuum for the recirculation flap.
lately it blows hot air and takes longer t...
Your car will need diagnostic work done to solve the problem. It may just be low on refridgerant so it will need to be recovered to measure how much was in it and recharged with the correct amount of R134A and oil. These A/C system do not perform well if the refridgerant is too low or too high.
The check engine light and the break light...
You will need to have the car scanned for codes to give you some idea of where to start. There are so many possiblities that without codes I can't even guess. Any shop with VAG-COM VCDS can do a complete scan of all the modules and print or email a report. The ABS is most likely a no communication issue caused by hair size gold wires inside the module that break. you can remove the electrical part from the hydraulic valve body and send it out to be rebuilt. Check on ebay and you will find several people offering this service. You Can drive the car with the module removed but remember to protect the exposed valve body from the elements with a plastic bag and some tape. You just need to unplug the module and remove the 6 screws. I remove the mounting bolts for the bracket to the frame to have enough room to access the screws.
Got a speeding ticket and I KNOW I wasn&#3...
Most speedo shops that are certified can only do two wheel drive. A performance shop with a four wheel dyno may be apply to check the accuracy of you speedo. The only reason it would be off is incorrect tire size. There are plent of speedometer apps for smartphones that use GPS or Garmin Nuvi GPS tells you the speed limit of the road you're on and how fast you are going. I don't know if these options are acceptible for the courts.
System has been charged and I have a new c...
Check that the radiator fans both work with the A/C on. If the fans do not work the system will over pressurize and shut down the compressor until pressure drops low enough. If it works longer at freeway speeds than at slower speeds the fans are the problem. The air gap on the compressor clutch can not be to large or it will have trouble engaging when it is hot (works fine when cold but can't re-engage after clutch cycles).
already had alignment and all new tires
Q7 suspension is very reliable, haven't typically seen any worn components in the front suspension. Most Higher speed vibrations are due to improperly balanced wheels. Many tire stores only balance the insde edge instead of dynamically (inner and outer edges) because they don't want to or can't put weight on the outer edge due to the design of the rim lip. If you only feel the vibration under braking it is caused by brake rotor surface variations, commonly refered to as (warped rotors). If you feel the vibration on acceleration and it goes away when you lift off the throttle it is bad axle joints or driveline wear. These Chassis' have issues with center carriers failing mostly on the older Touaregs and Porsches. Haven't had to do any Q7s yet but they are getting old enough now.
I put down my top yesterday and the light ...
It means there is a fault stored so you will need to have the system scanned to see which component is not functioning properly. One of the more common issues is the top lock not fully engaging the switch that tells the module that the top is completely closed. Adjusting the micro swith gererally takes care of it. Any shop that specializes on VWs can scan the car for codes.
suddenly, of the gauges went crazy; for se...
Altenators are very easy to replace on Subarus but try pricing the part at a dealer. We have found that sometimes the original dealer parts are better priced that at parts stores and the quality is definitely better.
My car overheated for the first time yeste...
Your Car has an electric water pump and they are common failures. You need to have the car scanned by a shop with BMW specific software to see if the typical codes are present, also they can run tests to determine if the pump has failed.
The shop should pressure test the system and look for leaks. Common leaks are the cap not holding pressure and any of the plastic parts deteriorating.
I replace the light bulb, still does not c...
Late model Volvos require that you clear the codes in the CEM (central electric module) after replacing the bulb inorder for the light to work again. You will need a scanner that has Volvo software installed to access the CEM.
Audis have multi link suspension with 4 ball joints and 1 tie rod end per side that will wear and cause clunking sounds. If you are hearing the noise while stopped and at idle, I would need more info about the noise to suggest a fix.
The most common problem is that the steering lock is loaded and not allowing the steerin lock to retract thus preventing the key from turning. You need to relieve the pressure by turning the steering wheel enough to release the tension and then the key should turn. It is possible for the lock cylinder to fail internally. If this happens you will need to order a new cylinder from the dealer that will be keyed to your car.
When backing out of the garage I noticed t...
Smoke from the shifter is usually caused by liquids spilled into the shifter and shorting out the electronics. The shifter will need to be disassembled to determine the extent of the damage. After replacing the damage parts, clear all the codes generated in the computer modules and hope that nothing esle was damaged too.
When an Audi starts then stalls look for warning lamp flashing in the instrument panel that looks like a car with a key. This means the immobilizer is active because the car doesn't recognize the key that you are using. Try another key if you have one. If that doesn't work the car will need to go to the dealer to be reprogrammed.
I now try to get the car inspected in NY S...
If the car runs and drives, the engine computer is most likely ok. Your problem is caused by another computer blocking the communication line so I would be looking at the computers that would have been damaged by water inside the car. The first step is to determine what is not functioning properly like the transmission or comfort/convenience items and then start disconnecting one computer at a time until you can communicate with the ECM. Modules hidden under the carpet are very susceptible to water damage.
whatever noise is it is not a mot fail as ...
I would look at the inner fender liners. If the belly pan is missing or just missing some of the hardware the liners will rub the tire when turning. If the steering fluid is low or aeriated you will have a groaning noie when turning in both directions. Find where the leak is and only use the proper mineral oil CH11S. Petroleum based steering fluid will deteriorate the hoses.
The rain comes in at the bottom right side...
You either have a windshield that was not properly sealed or your cowl drains are plugged with leaves. I heavy rain the cowl area fills with water until it reaches the air inlet of the climate system and then leaks onto the carpet. If you do not clean out the drains the water can build up under the carpet and destoy the transmission computer mounted under the carpet just ahead of the passenger front seat. Remove the a plug under the car to drain water that has accumulated. To clean the drains you need to remove the battery to access the drains and blow them out.
When i fill the gas tank the car is hard t...
You most likely have a bad EVAP purge valve. It is stuck open and sucking fuel into the engine. The N80 purge valve is easy to replace and is such a common failure that Audi has reduced the price. Check the price at dealer before buying an aftermarket part.
Everytime the brakes are applied the warni...
It sounds like you have a single element bulb (1156) in place of the dual element (1157) in one of your brake/park light sockets. This will cause power to feed back (with the park lights on) to the light module through the brake circuit and trigger a failure warning. When you hit the brakes power is sent through the park light circuit. As for the ever since you hit the ditch you may have damaged trailer wiring, if equipped. That would be the only wiring that susceptible to damage under the vehicle related to the brakes. I would start by verifying that the RT brake light has the correct bulb.
Did you Check Fuse 28 in the fuse box at the left side of the dash? If there is no power at this fuse then the fuel pump relay is not energizing. The relay is activated by power from the ignition switch and a ground signal from the ECM. If there is no spark the ECM will not send ground to the FP relay. Test for power and ground at the fuel pump and make sure the wiring inside the tank is properly connected.
When in level one and I want to go to leve...
The pump has a piston in it that collapses over time causing it not to seal properly. As a result the pump runs really hard to make and pressure. Usually the pump has a rattle sound and shuts off from overheating. I have had success using LandyAir rebuild kits on eBay out of the UK. It is easily done in car (on a Hoist) with out removing the pump assembly.
Does anyone know why this occurs? Also I h...
You will need to scan the suspension module for codes to determine which part is not functioning properly. I would double check that the backing plate is not hitting the rotor and also re-torque the wheels. When doing a brake job the hub surface must be cleaned of all rust an dirt in order for the rotor to run true, especially in the rust belt states. . We use carbide scrapers to remove the rust down to the original machined surface instead of using rotary buffers or sanding discs that either polish the rust and leave high spots or remove too much material cutting into the hub surface. If you have aftermarket wheels make sure you have the correct lug bolt design or they can loosen up if torqued to factory spec. Prop shaft seal will not cause noises in less the center diff has run dry.
I would've followed up my own question...
Your pump is worn and you can order a rebuild kit on eBay from LandyAir in the UK. You do not have to remove the pump assembly just the cylinder portion. The pump runs trying to build enough pressure until it over heats and shuts off. The head lamps use the level sensors in the air suspension to adjust the level of the head lamps.
baking slowly from a driveway and changing...
It is easy enough to determine if the axle is the cause of your problem. start the engine and put it in gear if one of the axles turn and the wheels don't then replace that axle. If the transmission behaves correctly then replace the other axle if it is worn or has broken boots. The trans maybe damaged internally, the F clutch can fail causing it not to drive. C clutches commonly break the aluminum housing at the clip ring groove on the Heavy Duty ZF trannys but you only loose reverse gear.
I have 66,000 miles on A6 2.7 T should i w...
The Manual recommends timing belt replacement at 105K but you are now dealing with time because rubber will deteriorate I would recommend inspecting the condition of the belt for cracks and contamination from oil or coolant. Always replace water pump, thermostat, tensioner, and all rollers. These parts may look good now but will they go another 75K. Use only quality parts or you will be doing it again soon. Many aftermarket water pump only last 30K before leaking or even worse, coming apart.
Car ran hot once and I had it towed to sho...
Leaking plastic flange at the back of the cylinder head is a common problem. If you drove the car until it stopped you may have engine damage. The engine should start and run without coolant to test for rough running and misfires. If it runs smoothly then the coolant leakage must be repaired in order to pressure test the system to determine if there is damage to the cylinder head or head gasket.
So as soon as i hooked up the last jumper ...
The first thing to do is check all of the fuses. Start with the fuse block at the left side of the dashboard. If you don't find a blown fuse there you will need to access the electrical box next to the brake master cylinder. Inside you will find the main power relay and fuses. If you find and replace a blown fuse and the car runs but the stereo does not work you will need to remove the stereo to replace the fuse in the back of the stereo. This fuse commonly blows if jumper cables are installed incorrectly.
Instances where the transmission has to ch...
You will need to have a system scan done to determine what codes are being generated to cause the transmission to enter limp home mode. Continuing to drive in limp mode will cause stress on the gear that is engaged , generally 3rd or 4th gear depending on which transmission you have. I had an A6 come in with a similar situation. The trans went into limp when climbing hills and had a code for a camshaft position sensor. The Audi dealership told him that he needed $8000 worth of work to correct the issue. After hours of diagnosis I found a poor connection at the engine computer. Problem solved and over $7000 saved. The computers are so interconnected that you need the full picture to determine the source of the problem.
The battery is new, the electronics work, ...
If the clicking sound is coming from the starter motor then you are not getting sufficient voltage to the starter. You will need to check for voltage drop between the battery and starter. Check cables and clamps for corrosion and ground cables between engine and chassis. If you don't find a voltage drop then the starter may be bad.
There is more to replacing a battery in later model cars then just bolting in the battery. The battery may need to be registered so the charging system will know how charge the new battery. There will be low voltage codes in many modules and some systems will need to be adapted. Without a professional scan tool you could try disconnecting the battery terminals and touching the clamps together for 10 minutes. Reconnect the battery and turn on the key but do not start of touch the gas pedal. You should hear some humming and clicking from the engine bay. Once it stops clicking turn off the key and then try starting the car. This will clear and reset so of the codes and adaptations. You will need to readapt the power windows.
The camshaft solenoid was replaced to fix ...
Depending on mileage and if you hear a rattling noise on cold starts you may not have a timing chain issue. I would recommend logging the cam sensor data to determine if the timing is off. I had a similar situation caused by a intermittent connection at the ECM cause cam codes and limp mode on acceleration. Timing chains are very expensive so I recommend spending time confirming it with proper diagnostics. The trick is finding someone with the knowledge and experience to do it.
I just had my Audi a4 2003 trans replaced....
Check fuses at left end of dashboard. Check for communication with the comfort and roof modules with a full function scanner. Common problem is water getting under the carpet and corroding the comfort module and/or wiring. Remove door sill trim and lift carpet to access plastic box just in front of drivers seat. Open box pull comfort module and disconnect harness to inspect for corrosion. Follow harness forward looking for corrosion. There are multiple wire solder joints that can corrode causing loss of power to the comfort module that controls the windows, alarm, interior light, and other convenience items.
Wheels vibrate when driving at a high rate...
If the steering is not shaking the imbalance must be in the rear. You need to have the wheels properly balanced as well as make sure all the mounting surfaces are clean and smooth. This means no corrosion build up on the hub face,rotor, and rim mount area. This can cause glazing on part of the rotor resulting in squeaking. Many shop neglect to properly clean these surfaces during brake replacement. Also make sure rims are hub centric or have spacer rings installed if you have aftermarket rims. The lug bolts need to be torqued correctly and have the correct taper or the wheels can come loose.
I would need more info about the problem like what the pressures are and if there are codes in the climate module. If the compressor is bad you need to pull and inspect the orifice tube for metal debris. If there is debris in the screen you will need to replace the condenser and thoroughly flush the system or compressor failure will occur.
Is there a chip in a 2003 Audi didn't ...
The Immobilizer is activated because the Key is not recognized and there should be a flashing light on the dash. It depends on what part you replaced. If you only changed the electrical portion of the switch then the Immobilizer will not be activated and the enigine should run. If you changed the lock cylinder and key then that is the cause and will activate the Immobilizer. If you are using the same key then you need to check the antenna ring around the lock cylinder for damage. Each key has a transponder in it and that transponder is programmed to the car. It is possible that the car just does not recognize that key so try another key for that car if you have one. If the car runs with the other key then you need to have the bad key reprogrammed at the Dealer. If you did change the lock cylinder and are trying to use the key that fits that lock then you need to hold the old key next to the antenna ring so it will recognize that key and then the engine should stay running.
Your Forrester Needs the codes read with a full function scan tool. When the check engine light is on the cruise light will flash. You most likely have a misfire in one or more of the cylinders causing the rough running. The most common cause of misfires is carbon tracks where the plug wire connects to the spark plug. Coil packs can fail and valves can be too tight if the car has over 100k mi. and has never been adjusted. Turbo engines have coil on plug arrangement and the individual coils can fail. Fuel injectors are also a possibility. Moving components and determining if the misfire follows the component or stays at the original cylinder helps to pinpoint the cause of the misfire.

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