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It sounds like you need to replace the ignition lock cylinder
an oil pan leak, especially near the oil filter is common. Also, the oil cooler/ lines, adapter are common. The rear seal can leak, but usually is not severe.
Good question, but can be hard to give you a solid answer. What we do in the shop, after the vehicle has been repaired. Drive the car normally. We do this first thing in the morning, after it has sat all night. We are close to the freeway, so, drive to the freeway. Once on the freeway we drive it at 55-60 mph, nice and steady for about 12 miles. We then turn around and drive on the freeway back to my shop. Usually this will complete one drive cycle. Some vehicles will need to sit for some time with the engine off to complete the evaporative emissions test. Some will need to be driven for a second time. All that being said, I have had some vehicles that were driven up to 1200 miles to complete a drive cycle, and pass all the emissions monitors.
Is the check engine light on while the engine is running? If it is, there will be a computer code set. If there is computer code, it would be very valuable to let us know what code has been set. Other than that, I would look/ listen under the hood for a vacuum leak. You will hear a hissing noise. It is very common for Ford PCV hoses to degrade, causing a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak could create a stall, as you described.
Very likely you will need to go to a shop to have it checked. I would suspect a solenoid pack issue.
Quad drivers are drivers in the pcm that control an actuator, or solenoid. Bad quad drivers doesn't nesessarly mean you have a bad pcm. You need to find out what the ones testing bad control and check the wiring, and actuator/ solenoid.
I agree, knowing what code has been set in the HVAC module will help pinpoint what needs to be done so your AC works the way it should. The code will not be a "generic" code that can be read with a code reader, typically those will only read codes relating to emissions and powertrain performance. The GM tech 2 scanner will be great help, it is the same scanner that the dealership used for your car.
If this is an aluminum pan, typically it can be rethreaded (tapped) with an even larger size. Do you know what size, the oversize plug is? Does it have an aluminum oil pan? If it has a steel pan it can make it more fifficult, but typically tapping oversize can be done.
Is this a problem that has progressively gotten worse, or is it something that has happened suddenly. If it happened suddenly, take a looka t the latch, it may already be latched. If so, use a screwdriver to pullit out while someone is holding the release handle.
I would say on the high end 450$. There could be some leeway in the price based on a visual inspection.