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Mikerhart27

Vancouver, WA

Mikerhart27 has not written a profile yet.

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Question Answered: 

This is a common problem on this car. First cause to check is air in the cooling system, or low coolant. Next on the checklist is the IAC. It's better to replace it, because trying to clean it often makes the problem worse. Next is the Fast Idle Valve. The beehive valve inside can loosen, and you have to spin/screw it back down with two flat head screwdrivers. Not too tight, just snug, and then back it off slightly.


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Question Answered: 

Not sure if it's too late to answer, but many times all you need to do is clean out the window channels and then lubricate them with silicone paste, or silicone spray if the paste is too hard to find. The paste works better, but you may have to order it online. If that doesn't fix it, then you will need a window regulator. And maybe also a motor. You can find an assembly of both together in aftermarket, that should work fine. OEM ones are very expensive.


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Question Answered: 

Side-to-side play is usually an inner or outer tie rod. Try to look under the car as you wiggle and see if you can spot loose parts. Bad wheel bearings don't always have play, many times you will just hear them as you spin the wheel. But it could also be a wheel bearing. Do you hear a growling noise while driving? If so, then the odds are higher that it's a wheel bearing.


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Question Answered: 

You don't have to warm it up, but you also shouldn't just start it up and take off. The oil needs 30 seconds to a minute to start circulating well, and driving before that is bad for the engine. And you don't want to rev it too much before it's warmed up. As far as the noise, if it's a clicking or ticking noise, that is fairly normal for Honda's of that vintage. They tend to have a rather noisy valve train, and noisy injectors. If it's just loud, then could be an exhaust issue. If it's pinging, could be many things, it's dirty fuel, incorrect timing (ignition and/or mechanical), egr system.


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Question Asked: 

I checked the cv axles, and only the right side has play, but only a tiny bit, maybe 1/16 inch. The left side has no play at all, but the inner boot makes a sound when the axle is turning, it sounds like the rubber rubbing on something. But all boots are fully intact, so could a cv axel still go bad when the boots are unharmed and completely sealed?


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Question Answered: 

If you can't find any visible leaks, then you have an internal coolant leak. This is either a blown or leaking head gasket or cracked head or block. Do you notice any white smoke or sweet-smelling vapor coming from the tailpipe? I would take it to a reputable mechanic to have a compression or leak down test done, to see which problem it is. It could also be a leak at the intake manifold or water pump, but I would definitely have it diagnosed, after you check well for visible leaks. There is also a dye you can get at the parts store that you put into the radiator, and it will show up where your leak is, to make the leak easier to find. And if it changes your tailpipe exhaust to the same color as the dye, then you know it's a combustion leak - which is either a blown head gasket, or cracked head or block. I would do this test first, and if you don't find any visible leaks, then take it to have a leak down test to determine where the problem lies.


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Question Asked: 

I start with the gas cap, and it definitely lets out a lot of air pressure. But when I go to unbolt the service bolt to relieve pressure, nothing comes out. Fuel or air. And the manual says to be ready for spray. So I'm just wondering - does that mean my fuel pressure is not accurate? Or is removing the gas cap doing the job mostly? Thanks


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Question Asked: 

I was able to remove the center beam, and the front exhaust bolts came off nicely (so I was able to pull the exhaust down about 5 inches from the oil pan). I was not able to remove the bolts on the other side of the pipe to make more clearance. I just want to make sure 5 inches will be enough room to remove the oil pan before I attempt. How far back do you have to pull it to clear the oil pump assembly. Thank you!


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Question Asked: 

Hello, I recently had my clutch, master cylinder, and slave cylinder replaced by a transmission shop in December, 2013. Ever since then, I have had clutch chatter that is getting progressively worse. I thought it might be air in the system, so I bled it out using the correct procedure. After bleeding the first time, the chatter disappeared, but only to REAPPEAR a few days later. I'm thinking maybe a leak? Now it's gotten to the point where I have to bleed the system every few days, and now the chatter/shudder doesn't go away completely anymore, it is just BETTER after bleeding. Any help would be great, thanks!


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