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Run to the parts store and buy Marvel Mystery oil, 1 qt and Chevron w/ Tectron injector cleaner. and a filter. Put 4 qts. of regular oil and 1 qt of MM oil. Run on high way for a few hrs and drop oil, and filter. do this until you clear out the sludge and then try Resoline with the same ratio. Use Premium Amoco and Inj. cleaner a few tanks and that also should make the engine stop knocking. In the old days a qt of kerosene and running the oil for a minute would flush the engine out of gunk. Plugs s/b changed too
Your all right, it depends on risk assessment. 1. Cheap filters are no good period. 2, Quality synthetic oil is much better and lasts longer. Today's engines and fuel are much cleaner and don't develop the sludge problems as quickly, Before 1940 cars didn't have oil filters, in the 50's and 60's mechanics always changed the filter the second oil change with single weight oil. Now with better filters and multi-weight oils. you can go 5K - 10K per oil change. Tests prove there is no difference in engine repair when you change oil 3K or 5 K, but Turbo oil s/b changed every 5k IMHO. I have tested my oils at 3K, 5K, 7 K, 9K and 11K all synthetic oil tests came back fine. Research shows around 12K to 14K Synthetic oil loses its fuel saving qualities. I opened my filters too at the same time, all were fine. the one at 9K should have needed changing in 2-3K. Filters work better when they have some usage (dirt contaminants) in them. For me, I have a turbo and I change my Syn. oil every 5K and filter every other oil change and I have never had an internal engine parts failure our cars average a total of 30K to 40K per year. MY Altima has been changed every 10K for 90K and no problems. It is just as important to change your Tranny fluid.I drop half every 3rd oil change. All of my cars never had issues. I usually have cars 175 K to 225K and am paid well when someone plows into my rear end or parked car. Older Toyotas had engine problems after owners were following the manual and changing oil every 7.5K because the owners were putting in 10w40 instead of 5w30 and driving all city roads7.5K was for highway and synthetic oil that was 5w30 not 10w40.
Contact points in the signal switch get gunked up. need to clean, but replacement is better. cost $$$, have to take off steering wheel.
The door lock lead sodder points cracked causing the problem. must replace the part or re sodder the connections. see VW Vortex website
yes you must use VW spec 24.00 gal. all other stuff screws with the insides. I don't know why but saw the bad witeups on using other stuff and my mechanic made the mistake once on some ones car cost him 400.00 to fix
Had similar problems, changed Headlight switch and still had problems. 30 yr VW mechanic said it was the contacts in the signal switch that get gunked up. He was right . had to disassemble the steering wheel and change the switch. not wise to just clean contacts. repair may not last as long Hope this helped
Low beam headlights went off, Lowbeams working day running light position. Now Low beam will work in on position but the dashboad lights don't go on together. Both work when I have the switch in the halfway position. Changed Headlight switch. Mechanic says now its the signal switch? What does the #8 headlight relay fuse do or is it a ground? any sugestions?
The door open light and warning chime go off even when the door is properly closed. After repeated closings, I now have to hold the door to keep the light/chime off. Any suggestions?
5-w30 synthetic for turbo