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Walnut Creek, CA
Usually the fuse panel is towards the lower left of the dash board or the driver's side kick panel (by your left foot). The engine compartment fuse box is typically near the battery and the cover is labeled with the fuses and relays contained within. Usually the owner's manual has good information about where to find the fuses. I know Toyota typically has nice pictures and diagrams in their manuals. hope this helps!
If they mean there is still air in the system, remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold and check the coolant level. It should be right at the sealing surface, or within an inch of that. Add coolant as needed and start the engine. I can't remember if your truck uses a heater control valve, so setting the heater/AC to full hot is a good idea. As it warms you may see level drop. Add coolant as needed. If it starts to boil over, put the cap back on and let it run for a minute. Obviously, if you see the temperature climb too much, too fast, shut the engine down. I don't remember the trucks having cooling system bleeders like some Honda's and Toyota's have. How does the oil look on the filler cap and dip stick? A note about coolant. I am in California so I would just add regular water but if it gets very cold where you live, consider using a mix of antifreeze and water. I personally like the 50/50 premixed stuff you can buy at most auto parts stores. It's inexpensive and there's no worrying about adding to the system. Make sure you buy the correct type of antifreeze for your system!! I hope this helps!
While pressing the key release button, giggle key while trying to turn it to the lock position. If the key is worn, it can be difficult to turn in the lock cylinder. If you can get the key out, using a fresh spare key may be a good idea. If you can't get it out, you may consider driving to a shop or the dealer to see if they can help. If you have a spare key, use that to lock the doors if you need to leave the car unattended. This may also be something with the ignition switch or key interlock system but lets hope it's only the key. hope this helps!
A clunking noise could be a worn motor mount allowing the engine to shift positions. In some cases, the engine may even bump the floor/firewall and you feel it with your feet! If your CV joint(s) are worn/bad, you can hear a clicking when make sharp turns
Many radiators have a plastic petcock towards the bottom of the radiator you can use to drain the radiator. If there is no petcock, removing the lower radiator hose may be required. I have never used a heater hose flush kit but they usually go inline in one of the heater hoses. If there is not a lot of debris and buildup, you may not need to use one. I always recommend to people working on their own cars to invest in a repair manual. They are readily available at most auto parts stores and usually cost no more than $20. I picked up 2 used ones from Craigslist for my 240Z for $10!
I am truly not trying to be insulting but did you bump the hazard switch on accident? I know when I am dusting or cleaning around my steering wheel it's pretty easy to activate the switches and buttons.
This sounds like a brake-shift interlock issue. It could the switch on the brake pedal or possibly the solenoid in the shifter. I have also heard a worn key can contribute to this issue. If you have a spare key (that wasn't used often), try that first and see if anything changes. Otherwise, some diagnosis may be needed. Some cars are also sensitive to coffee or other liquid spills onto the shifter. hope this helps!
First, needing an oil change should not influence seeing smoke or steam from the defroster. This sounds like your heater core sprung a leak and you saw the steam releasing from the crack, or the spot from which it's leaking. Did the 'smoke' have any particular type of smell? Did it have the sweeter smell like coolant or did it smell like burning electrical/plastic? Does the passenger side floor feel damp to you? If it is damp, how does it smell? If adding coolant led to the smoke from the defroster vents, this really leads me to think your heater core is the culprit. hope this helps!
https://techinfo.toyota.com This is Toyota's tech info system available to the dealers. "Regular" people can buy a brief subscription to look up service information for their vehicle but it is not what I would consider "cheap"... $15 per 2 days or 75/month http://www.alldatadiy.com/ AllData is a very good resource and another information source used by professionals nationwide. It's 26.95 per year and has lots of diagnostic information. Many Toyota specific message boards, or boards specific to the Tacoma/4Runner have DIY how-to threads, which can be very helpful with pictures taken by users. Often in the case of heating and AC, mode door arms and/or actuators can fail. This will likely require some electrical knowledge in order to diagnose the failure point if the door or arm isn't obviously broken. Many of those individual parts are available from the dealer and most cases won't require the complete replacement of the HVAC housing. By the way, if the housing needs to be completely removed, it is best to let a shop equipped with AC refrigerant tools to remove the housing because the AC Evaporator core contains the pressurized refrigerant. hope this gives you something to go on!
That does sound like symptoms of torque converter engagement issues. Is this a dealer mechanic that told you this? It sounds like your van is brand new, maybe try speaking to the service manager to see if another technician can look at it and check service bulletins. Has it done this since new?