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http://www.kiatechinfo.com/ Go here and create a login. It's free, there's no spam, and all they ask for is an email. You can find service bulletins, and complete shop manuals (the "Shop" link) for any Kia. It's VERY useful, good luck!
If you have a serpentine belt, there is an automatic tensioner below and to the left of the alternator. Put a wrench on the pulley bolt to rotate the pulley clockwise and release tension on the belt. Hope this helps!
If you're not sure which fuse is the one for the washer pump, inspect them all. The wiper relay sends power to the wiper motor and washer motor after the fuse. The wiper relay is in the fuse/junction block in the engine compartment. If you know the motors are good, check the fuse (fuse 26 i think), wiper relay, and possibly the switch. Hope this helps!
One of the CV shafts might be binding causing noise and the pull to the left. It may make noise until the front wheels/4wd disengages. I'm not familiar with how the 4wd engages but if the front diff has a solenoid to engage the front wheels, it's possible that is hanging up
My old Taurus was smooth through 85mph but I never really drove it much faster than that. I would bet the newer Taurus's are computer limited to 110 mph or so
Does your Jeep stall primarily when slowing down/deceleration? Is your throttle closed (foot off the gas)? The throttle body on all the Jeeps get coked up with oil and can cause a low idle/stalling and harder starting (long cranking time). Before replacing the TPS, try inspecting/cleaning the throttle body. A failing fuel pump can cause intermittent stalling as well and won't necessarily turn on your check engine light. If the fuel pump is weak, the engine may run on light throttle but not see enough fuel pressure to sustain higher rpm running or heavy throttle (hard accel). If the CAT or O2 sensor has failed, most likely you will have a CEL and they won't normally cause stalling. Ignition problems can cause drivability problems and stalling as well. The ignition coil can be tested by measuring the resistance values
It's hard to say what exactly is going on. There is a service bulletin about the fuel gauge reading zero intermittently due a problem with the "flex-fuel pigtail wiring". There is a kit to fix that issue but I don't know if that is related to your autolamps malfunction. This could also be related to a module (computer) or grounding problem. This will need some diagnosis to really dial in on the problem.
Many Chrysler's have what they call a "Limp-in" mode where the computers (control modules) will hold the transmission in 3rd or 4th gear. This allows the customer to be able to make it to a dealer/shop/home while minimizing possible damage to components. With your check engine light on, you'll need to have the computer scanned for trouble codes. There is a service bulletin for a surging problem between 40-50mph but I'm not sure that is the symptom you're describing here.
Matt is correct, this will probably need more diagnosis. There is a tech service bulletin from Chrysler (TSB 21-07-98) that has decision tree for use in diagnosis. The shop should be able to scan for any trouble codes as well. Unfortunately, reverse is typically the first gear to show signs of transmission problems. Your local dealer would be able to verify that your transmission module has the latest software and diagnose the issue for you, but you'll most likely need to pay for diagnosis
A simple drain and refill should not put any pressure on particles inside the transmission. Any particles that are stuck somewhere should not come loose by draining it. Many places will disconnect the trans fluid cooler lines and drain/refill using the transmission's own oil pump. They put one line in fresh fluid and the other drains to an empty container until the fluid comes out clean. This way the transmission does not see excessive fluid pressure or more pressure than it normally would experience. "Flush" is not always a clear term in the industry so it's good to ask what they do.