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Walnut Creek, CA
Maybe someone else can chime in but on some Toyota's, if you have the distributor a single tooth off, it can cause similar problems. I would try to get the timing sorted out first and then see if the drivability is still poor
The throttle bodies on Chrysler's tend to get "coked up" with oily residue. As the residue builds up, it closes off the throttle opening leading to low idle conditions and stalling. The tube from your air cleaner housing goes into the throttle body. When you pull the plastic tube off the throttle body you'll be able to see the residue (it will be black and caked on there). Spray throttle body cleaner on a shop towel/rag and start wiping away the residue (it will take some elbow grease it's really on there). DO NOT spray directly on the throttle body because you can damage sensors. Clean it thoroughly, clean the throttle blade, open the throttle and clean the edges of the throttle blade, clean the bore. I did not have to remove the throttle body on my Jeep to do this and I do not believe you need to either. Try that first and if you're not comfortable with what I've described, take it to a shop and have them diagnose your stalling issue. Honestly, I would take it to another technician because if the first one didn't know where the crank sensor is located, I would not trust the diagnosis. If you can DIY, do the throttle body first because that only costs your time and the cleaner.
When the blower runs only on high it's usually the blower motor resistor. The 1996 and 1997 Caravans may have an issue with corrosion on the connector terminals on the resistor. Look for any corrosion on the terminals. Dodge has a revised resistor and a replacement wiring connector. I searched google and this page has great images of the condition. I hope this helps! You'll need to copy/paste that entire link I'm afraid it didn't copy correctly. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t340871.html
I saw your other question so I'm assuming this is the manual transmission. The manual transmission does not actually have a dipstick to inspect the level like most manuals. There is a sight plug on the side that needs to be removed to inspect the fluid level or add fluid. If it is not leaking, the fluid should not be low (unless someone replaced the fluid and didn't fill it correctly). Autozone has repair guides available (free) online and there is a section on manual transaxle fluid that says how to inspect the level for your Contour, and drain/refill the transmission. I can't get the direct link to work so you'll have to pick your car, and check the "manual transaxle" under "Fluids and Lubricants". You'll need to copy/paste that entire link http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a87f8
Is it difficult to move the shifter into gear (like first gear)? Does it grind when you want to shift it into reverse? It sounds like a hydraulic issue with your clutch, if the clutch isn't releasing fully. Check your owners manual and verify the fluid level of your clutch. Add the correct fluid if it is low (should be in your owner's manual). You may need a shop to check out why it's difficult to shift if your fluid level is ok.
Does your Grand Cherokee not move/accelerate when you shift into 4 wheel drive? If this is only happening in 4WD, I would be looking at the transfer case or front differential/axle. My first thought is this has more to do with your 4WD than your braking system. I would take it to a shop to be diagnosed if you're not comfortable working on your Jeep
With the 3.0L V6 it can be either steel or aluminum. The 24V DOHC V6 will have an aluminum oil pan and I believe the 24V engine was only available on the LX trim line (there are usually badges to denote the 24V duratec engine). The older style 3.0 (pushrod engine) has a steel pan You can verify by looking under your car with a flashlight. The steel pan will be smooth (it is stamped) and often is painted black. The aluminum pan will look like a casting I believe. I am referring the engine oil pan
I would recommend a trip to the dealer. Since your car is an '07, it is most likely still under warranty. Extreme cold can do strange things to cars and sometimes things don't appear until the temperature drops. It's a good idea to let the service adviser know that this happened when it got cold so they can pass that information along to the diagnosing tech.
Adding to what hemi said, a leaking heater core will smell like coolant inside the car (passenger compartment). Coolant has a very distinct smell, sometimes described as a sweet smell but not everyone notices the smell. Like you said, many leaves gathered at the base of your windshield can lead to a water leak on the passenger floor. If your BMW has a sunroof, those drains can clog too. If it's possible, park it in the garage with the windows cracked to dry out. Once it's dry, you can test for leaks with a garden hose, weather permitting