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If you have an '07, it's probably still under warranty. Take it to the dealer to have it checked out. If your engine light came on, there will be trouble codes stored that they can scan for. I didn't know Kia had a diesel engine
Check the connections to and from the switch and resistor. You can use a test light or multimeter to make sure the motor is seeing voltage in all of the switch positions. Make sure there is no corrosion on the connectors and that they are making good contact. Earlier models had a service bulletin on this but all it says is to replace the resistor assembly. If you bought the parts at the dealer, you probably have the correct part based on your VIN.
I'm pretty sure the owner's manual has detailed instructions on how to replace most of the light bulbs on your car.
Hi, you'll need to have someone scan for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if your check engine light has come on. The Mercedes dealer can do this and most independent shops can do this for you too. I think Autozone's will scan for the code for free and give you a readout, but I would call and ask first. ..might be able to help you some more if you can say what the code(s) are.
I am assuming you meant to say 3500 rpms. Has your Check Engine (MIL) light come on? Does this happen with partial throttle (light acceleration), or heavy acceleration? Is the engine cold or fully warmed up? You might consider taking it to a shop for diagnosis. This symptom can be caused by any number of things.
If you just want the individual guides and tensioners, I found them on Napaonline.com. Napa stores carry this too most likely. They also have the complete timing kit with chain, guides, tensioners, and tensioner arm. The complete kit is pricey but might be worth it if you are disassembling the things that far. Did anything else get damaged when the guides and tensioner arm broke?
Where is your gas leaking from? Perhaps did someone tell you to order fuel injector o-rings? I'd hate to tell you the wrong part and have you waste money. I will say you need to be very careful when it comes to fuel leaks. That can be a major fire hazard if the gas leaks onto the hot exhaust manifold. If your (auto?) transmission is leaking, it could be the transmission oil pan or something else. You may want to have it checked out to be sure.
If the the oil filter was indeed loose, then that could definitely be a source of a large leak. All the oil in the engine passes through the filter after coming through the oil pump. Make sure your oil level is where it should be since it sounds like a lot leaked out. Did you recently have the oil changed? Oil filters are usually only hand-tight when installed (tighten to contact gasket to the mating surface, then another 3/4 - 1.5 turns past that). Does it only leak while the engine is running? Leak when it is parked, engine off? Was it a big stream of oil or drips mostly? Maybe your husband can look under your Jeep after you start it to confirm nothing is leaking. Remember if oil was leaking, there may be residual oil left on the engine if it was not cleaned.
Your owner's manual will usually have locations of your fuse panels but I believe your interior fuses are located on the left side of the lower instrument/dash panel.
When I changed the vacuum brake booster on my truck I had this problem. If I pulled the brake pedal up (towards me) with my foot the brake lights would go out. The 240's have the brake (stop lamp) switch on the brake pedal assembly. It is a momentary push button switch that has threads and a lock nut for adjustment.