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Andy Y

Walnut Creek, CA

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Question Answered: 

You'll want to make sure your fuel pressure is good and the fuel filter (if equipped) isn't plugged. If flow is restricted, you might be fine around town but the float bowl may drain under freeway conditions I'm not sure if your truck has a cap and rotor, but checking inside the cap for arcing, corrosion, and carbon tracks is a good idea. That is where I'd start, hope this helps


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also look at the condition of your suspension bushings and sway bar bushings. As the bushings wear, it allows things like the control arms to shift (and clunk) when accelerating or when there's a change in throttle. Also look at the motor mounts. On some cars, the engine/trans can actually thump against the firewall Look for cracks in control bushings and others. The motor mounts may also show cracking in the rubber if they have broken down


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The first thing I check whenever an auto trans acts strange is the fluid level (if that is possible). Are there any warning lights illuminated on your instrument cluster? Failure of the auto transmissions in your generation of Honda is pretty common, enough so that Honda did extend the warranty on the automatic transmission. http://repairpal.com/honda-accord-1999/common_problems I know my friend received a letter from Honda so the dealer might be an option


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Is there a fuse for the wiper washer pump? I would check the fuses to be sure. Also double check to be sure the connections are secure. Do you have a test light or multimeter? You can have a helper push the washer button inside (with the key on/engine off I'm guessing) and you can check for voltage at the washer pump connector


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Not all radiators have a petcock to use for draining. Look along the bottom/side of the radiator for the wing nut. It may be under the radiator, some cars have a hole in the cross member to access the petcock. If there is no drain, you may need to remove the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. That is as messy as it sounds... one of my old cars was like this. A nice, big drain pan helps keep the mess down


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Someone probably told you a freeze plug or engine block plug. These are usually pressed into holes in the block and prevent coolant leaks from the block. They can corrode over time and create a coolant leak. You'll really need to look with a flashlight for the source of the leak. Is it really leaking (you're losing coolant from the reservoir)? Could it be residual from your repair? Follow the wet coolant as high as you can and look very carefully. It can run along seams and ridges and look like it's coming from somewhere else.


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Question Answered: 

This a tough question to answer. It really depends on your experience and how comfortable you are working on your car. If you are equipped with a repair manual, like one from Chilton, Haynes, or AllData DIY, that will certainly tell the work required to do your starter. Why do you need to replace your starter? Is the battery fully charged and is it getting signal from the switch? I know the starter (internal) contacts are common on Toyota's but it's best to know for sure that it is your starter before spending the money.


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Do you still have the owner's manual for the truck? Bulb replacements are usually explained in the maintenance section pretty well. There are usually a couple different styles. The light socket unlocks from behind the light assembly with a 1/4 turn or the lens unscrews to access the bulb. If the bulb is near the headlight, you probably have to access it from behind, with the hood open. Be careful to use the correct bulb


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If you saw smoke, I would also check your fuses. Are you seeing any voltage on the positive side of the coil? Was the repair for a short to ground (short circuit)? Are you talking about the high voltage wire from the coil or a normal sized smaller wire?


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The first thing to do is double check and make sure anything that was disconnected / unplugged is reconnected properly. Vacuum lines, wire connectors, etc. If you removed the air tube, make sure that is secure so that no air leaks in after the MAF sensor. Without knowing how you torqued your intake, it's hard to say if you created a leak. There is usually a tightening sequence, and there is definitely a torque spec for the intake plenum and manifold. Did your Check Engine light come on?


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