Andy Y

Master
4302 points
Recent Activity

Question Answered: starting
December 29, 2008, 12:39 PM
Does the starter not crank at all? Does it crank but not start the engine? If it does not crank at all, check the wires to the starter, including the signal wire! The signal wire to the starter on my pickup became disconnected so I would only hear a click from the starter relay when I tried to start the engine. If your engine cranks, but does not start, that could be a different problem entirely.
Question Answered: Transmission
December 24, 2008, 12:43 PM
Kia makes the service manuals available on their Kia technician site. http://www.kiatechinfo.com/ It is free to register. You can look up TSB's, recalls, and service manuals for any model. The "Shop" link on the left, once you're logged in, is the gateway to the shop manuals. You'll need to use Internet Explorer, it doesn't seem to work completely with FireFox. Of course, it is always recommended to diagnose the problem before replacing parts (spending money).
Question Answered: bogging down and stalling when in drive
December 24, 2008, 11:50 AM
This can be caused by any number of things I'm afraid, from the mass air flow sensor to fuel injectors to vacuum leaks to a fuel pump. It really needs to be diagnosed. The technician will need to scan for any trouble codes and perform a proper diagnosis. It sounds like this is mainly a problem once your van is at operating temperature, and only bogs/stalls under load. All of that information can help a technician figure out what is going on with your van. Is it only accelerating from a stop? anytime you accelerate? What is the outside/ambient temperature? Does outside temp matter? Does it only happen when the engine is cold? only happen when the engine is at operating temperature? When it bogs, do you see any black smoke from the tail pipe? I'm sorry I can't tell you exactly what is going on with your van but I hope this will point you in the right direction.
Question Answered: Rear End Noises. Loud, steady groaning, plus clunking sound
December 24, 2008, 11:09 AM
First, (nearly) every Jeep will start to leak from the pinion seal (front or rear). Diff covers also. There is a chance the groaning could be your carrier bearings or axle/wheel bearings, or both. I am assuming the clunking you mention is from the rear of your Jeep, that may be your limited slip starting to go south too. It also may mean you need to change the fluid again and use the correct limited-slip additive. With Jeeps you have an amazing amount of options because of people modifying them for off-road or rock crawling. What you decide to do I think depends on your goals. If you're doing daily driving, stock tire sizes, the Dana 35 should be fine. If you've gone larger on your tires, and go off-road the Dana 44 is an option. The Dana 44 that came on some of the V8 Grand Cherokee's does not have a great reputation for strength because of the cast aluminum housing. I am more familiar with Toyota crawlers but sites like JeepsUnlimited and Pirate4x4 will have info on axle swaps so you can know what to look for used (use the search functions and read the FAQ before posting questions). That leads to the next option. With people swapping to Dana 44's and 60's, you will probably be able to find a stock 35 complete drum-to-drum. A lot of wrecking yards specialize in Jeep parts too. (http://www.jwjeep.com/ for example) I'm afraid I can't say what a rear-end rebuild will cost without knowing what exactly what you need. I would look into the price of a used, good axle, and then decide if it's worth rebuilding your original axle. If you feel like reading some tech, I have used this for my friend's Wrangler and my Toyota http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/
Question Answered: engine high idle
December 23, 2008, 04:37 PM
I'm not sure what the clunk may have been but you might check your idle speed motor and your throttle position sensor (TPS). Any vacuum leaks will cause a high idle condition as well. The Idle speed motor won't always set a Check Engine light unless it's electrically defective. If it's mechanically defective it won't set a code. Vacuum leaks won't always set a code either. If you're not familiar with these parts, I suggest taking your Jeep to a qualified technician to be diagnosed.
Question Answered: leaking heater hose
December 23, 2008, 11:39 AM
You should clean the floor around where it normally leaks first. The next time it leaks soak some up with a white paper towel or napkin. You should be able to identify if it is coolant or normal water. Coolant will have color (typically orange or green) and smell. You may also notice the coolant level dropping. If you're not comfortable working on your truck, it would be a good idea to take it to a good shop if you determine that it is, in fact, coolant. If it's normal water, it could be condensation off the AC compressor finding its way to the ground. Many vehicles activate the compressor with the "defrost" function.
Question Answered: Blue Smoke
December 23, 2008, 11:26 AM
Are you saying, after the engine is off (parked) for approx 1 hour, it will smoke after you start the engine? That is sometimes indicative of leaking valve seals. The oil pools around the seals when the engine is off, leaks down the valve, and burns the oil when you start the engine. You should definitely have a qualified shop diagnose the issue. Burning too much oil can prematurely damage the catalytic converters.
Question Answered: new key
December 23, 2008, 11:18 AM
Your owner's manual might have something about changing the battery. They key for my Civic has a small screw that is really tight and was hard to get loose. Your key may be similar. Be careful if your remote has the screw because you don't want to damage the screw using the wrong size screwdriver
Question Answered: Coolant leak
December 23, 2008, 11:08 AM
If the coolant expansion tank is overfilled, it will overflow when the coolant is warmed up. Make sure your levels are good (check when the coolant is cold). Even though the Check engine light went off, a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is stored in memory. You should have a shop or parts house scan for codes. If codes are stored in memory, the car may not pass the next emissions/smog test.
Question Answered: Key won't turn in the ignition
December 23, 2008, 11:03 AM
A worn out ignition key can cause this problem too. Jiggle the key around in the cylinder and try to turn the key. If you have a spare key, try that because it might be less worn. Dealers can cut fresh keys if you have the VIN and can verify registration/ownership
Problem Reported: AC System Leaks Refrigerant
January 11, 2011, 04:05 PM

O-rings in the quick connect fittings commonly allow refrigerant to leak from the AC System. The o-rings at system quick connect fittings should be replaced.

Problem Reported: Ticking Noise from Heater Blower When Fan Is On
January 11, 2011, 04:04 PM

Internal heater blower motor issues can cause a ticking noise from the heater blower when the fan is on. To correct this concern, replace the heater blower motor with a revised unit.

Problem Reported: The Horn Will Not Work Intermittently
January 11, 2011, 04:03 PM

The horn may not work sometimes. A higher than appropriate horn voltage can cause switch damage and a relay kit should be installed to moderate voltage and maintain functionality.

Problem Reported: Buzzing Noise from Exhaust at Different Engine Speeds
January 11, 2011, 04:01 PM

If a buzzing noise is coming from the exhaust at different engine speeds and conditions, this is commonly caused by the heat shields on catalytic converters coming loose at points. The buzzing is the metal on metal contact. Installing a large worm clamp around the catalytic converter and heat shield assembly will prevent the noise and secure the shields.

Problem Reported: Automatic Transmission Shifts Hard
January 11, 2011, 04:00 PM

If the throttle lever is out of adjustment, or the grommets are missing / broken at the throttle or transmission, the automatic transmission can shift hard. Replace the grommets as needed and adjust the throttle lever.

Problem Reported: Speedometer Operation Affected and Poor Transmission Shift Quality
January 11, 2011, 03:59 PM

The vehicle may lose vehicle speed signal, which can affect speedometer operation and transmission shift quality. Most often the Vehicle Speed Sensor is faulty, however, at times, the driven gear inside the transmission is at fault. Replace the Vehicle Speed sensor and inspect the driven gear upon sensor removal.

Problem Reported: AC System Leaks Refrigerant
January 11, 2011, 03:57 PM

O-rings in the quick connect fittings commonly allow refrigerant to leak from the AC System. The o-rings at system quick connect fittings should be replaced.

Problem Reported: Ticking Noise from Heater Blower When Fan Is On
January 11, 2011, 03:53 PM

Internal heater blower motor issues can cause a ticking noise from the heater blower when the fan is on. To correct this concern, replace the heater blower motor with a revised unit.

Problem Reported: The Horn Will Not Work Intermittently
January 11, 2011, 03:51 PM

The horn may not work sometimes. A higher than appropriate horn voltage can cause switch damage and a relay kit should be installed to moderate voltage and maintain functionality.

Problem Reported: Buzzing Noise from Exhaust at Different Engine Speeds
January 11, 2011, 03:46 PM

If a buzzing noise is coming from the exhaust at different engine speeds and conditions, this is commonly caused by the heat shields on catalytic converters coming loose at points. The buzzing is the metal on metal contact. Installing a large worm clamp around the catalytic converter and heat shield assembly will prevent the noise and secure the shields.

Car Review: 1991 Jeep Wrangler
January 16, 2009, 04:21 PM
What can I say? It's a Jeep and the short wheelbase makes for a stiff ride. I LOVE the torque from the 4.0L HO engine but it eats gas like it's going out of style. Oil leaks everywhere mostly fixed now... valve cover gasket, pinion seals, diff covers, transmission oil pan gasket, and oil cooler lines. After test driving some soft tops I'm really happy with the hard top, it's much quieter and seals much better.
Car Review: 1994 Ford Ranger
January 16, 2009, 04:12 PM
This truck was damn near bullet proof. I kept up with the oil and coolant changes and air filters it never had any problems. I had the 3.0L V6 with the automatic transmission... it felt a little underpowered but it was dependable. It always had that power steering whine but my old Taurus did too. I sold it with 190,000 miles on the clock and it was still going strong, passed smog no problem when sold.
Car Review: 2007 Honda Civic
September 25, 2008, 03:15 PM
This was my first new car and I love my car! I had the problem with my sun visors and the dealer took care of me. I've had one leak from my timing chain tensioner cover (warranty) and I just replaced the tires. With the synthetic oil I'm getting 33-35 mpg each tank! Sometimes the AC takes a little long to get cold but I'm really nit picking
Comment: Ferrari 275 GTB: Rendezvous in Paris
May 13, 2009, 11:28 AM
Awesome, nothing sounds like an Italian V12
Comment: One Car We Will Never Have on RepairPal
February 03, 2009, 03:09 PM
Awesome! I want one! It'll look great next to my rock crawler Great picture! nice blue-bird day in the valley
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