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Andy Y

Walnut Creek, CA

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Question Answered: 

Those are the maintenance codes. B is oil change, 1 is tire rotation, and 3 is replace transmission fluid I believe. The maintenance codes should be in your owner's manual and Honda Owners Link (website) explains them


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Question Answered: 

The EX models have LED high mount brake lights. I believe you need to replace the light unit. Mine is strange, it will work in cold weather but stop above 55-60 degrees


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Anything that makes the engine run more efficiently, or work less hard can improve your gas mileage. In other words the correct weight synthetic oil, reducing weight (take all the junk out of the bed, remove un-used rear seat), and/or lighter wheel/tire combo. A free-er flowing (and emissions compliant) intake and exhaust can help assuming you don't take a liking to the new sounds and use the skinny pedal more vigorously. Of course, the cost of an intake/exhaust may offset any savings you might see in miles per gallon. I suggest next time you're ready for tires, look at the different weights of the tires. Manufacturers publish this information. A difference of 2-5 pounds per tire can have an impact on how the truck drives, accelerates, and the gas mileage.


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Does it have a sweet smell like coolant? That could be the heater core leaking. If it smells like regular water, it could be your heater box drains are plugged and the water is overflowing from the heater box. Your windshield seal is in good condition?


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Pardonez moi, Je n'ai pas parlé de francais pour beaucoup des annees. J'utilise le traducteur Google pour vous aider. Inspectez votre huile de contamination du liquide de refroidissement. Il ressemblera à la mayonnaise ou de lait si du liquide de refroidissement a fui dans l'huile. Cela peut sembler vert ou brun. Votre mécanicien peut pression d'épreuve le système de refroidissement pour détecter les fuites. Si les chutes de pression et vous ne voyez pas une fuite externe, il peut être joint de culasse.


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Where is the block damaged? Did a piece of block come off at the motor mount?


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Distributor installation on the 18R, 20R, and 22R is pretty sensitive. If it's a tooth off, it will not run right, and if it's more, it likely won't run at all. When you pulled out the old one did you set the engine to top dead center (TDC)? You will need to turn the engine to TDC, and make sure it's on a compression stroke. Now when you install the distributor, make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. Once it's running you can set your timing with an advance light. The emissions label under the hood usually has the timing spec


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Was it over-filled the last time it was changed? I am not sure how it would suddenly be over-filled if nothing has been added... are you sure it's not the oil level sensor? Does your Mercedes have a dip stick for the engine oil? I am aware of the transmissions using a tamper plug on the dip stick tube... what color is the oil that you've siphoned?


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Hey you have lots of options but remember, most of the options mean you will not be able to pass emissions testing (if you have them where you are). Lots of my drift friends are running SR20det swaps in their S13's and S14's. 200-300+ hp at the wheels is very possible with the SR but it does require the right tune. You might need custom engine management depending on your power goals. KA turbos can make tons of power too with a good tune, and they make great torque since they're a 2.4 The RB25 and RB26 are the inline 6's from the Skylines. Those are wild swaps too, less common. In California, you can usually find an SR with trans and uncut harness for under 2500. McKinney Motorsports makes complete swap kits and are known in the Datsun Z community for their RB motor mounts for 240Z and 280Z's. http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/ Also check out http://zilvia.net/ and http://forums.nicoclub.com/ and search search search. There is a mountain of info between those sites. HybridZ.org has tons of engine specific info on tuning, but not really specific to your S13. Good luck!


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Question Answered: 

If it is truly not a rod knock, I would be looking at the timing chain. Get a timing light on and watch the timing advance. If it isn't stable, there's a good chance the timing chain is loose. With the advance floating around, this could be why you don't have power. Use a long length of hose as a stethoscope to try and isolate the location of the knocking/ticking. A long screwdriver works well for this too. One end goes in your ear and the other can be placed on the part or area. Be careful of the spinning fan!!


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