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West Springfield, MA
If your vehicle is an automatic you will want to use ESSO ATF LT 71141, BMW 83 22 0 002 121. If it's manual you will want to use MTF LT 1. We usually get this fluid straight from the dealer. Please let me know if you need any further information. Here is a list of shops in your area that will be able to help you if you get stuck. Best of luck to you! http://repairpal.com/directory?distance=10&sort_by=relevance&commit=Search%20Directory&address=01105&car_brand_names=Suzuki
Unfortunately, bad coolant hoses will not cause the AC to blow warm air. But if a coolant hose is leaking it can cause many other issues. To clear up the issue with the warm air coming out of the vents when the AC is on, You should really have the HVAC system checked. The most common problems that we find are leaks in the system. Once the refrigerant gets low it will prevent the compressor from turning on. Best of luck to you and i have given you a link for some local shops that will be able to help you. http://repairpal.com/directory?distance=10&sort_by=relevance&commit=Search%20Directory&address=01105&car_brand_names=Suzuki
In general, timing chains don't go bad unless there is outside influence that causes them to go bad. But the guides that the chain run along and the tensioner(s) go bad. It's fairly common to have to replace these but as for the chain.... not so much. Towing the vehicle wouldn't cause the chain to go bad, and towing the vehicle in Park can cause a TON of issues. But chances are that if it was towed in park years ago and you haven't had an issue since, then you got lucky and the issues are unrelated. Bottom line is that there are many factors that can create a noise that will sound like it's a noise in the timing cover but the noise is actually coming from another place. I would try to run the vehicle with the belts off and see if the noise is still there. That will eliminate the chance of any accessories giving you a noise. It is always best to have someone that knows your vehicle work on your vehicle. It's a horrible site to see when a customer comes in with a box of parts that their "friend" left off their vehicle because they didn't know how to put them back in. Noises are difficult to diagnose without actually hearing them in person. Let me know if I can help any further
The estimated time is about 2.8 hours to replace one side.
Sounds like the switch was on it's way out for a while. I would replace the switch. It's a fairly common issue with those. Best of luck!
Most common reason that you will have heat when driving and not at idle is that there is an air pocket in the cooling system. This can be caused by a leak in the system. I would recommend that you have this checked out immediately. An air pocket in a cooling system can cause a large amount of damage if it's not caught early. Best of luck
I would check for vacuum leaks other than hoses. You will want to check your intake and throttle body gaskets. Let me know what you come up with
A few of the most well known symptoms will jump right out at you. First being that the vehicle will not start. It will crank, but it will not fire if the sensors aren't reading. Second is that your Check Engine Light will be on. When I diagnose these I watch the datastream to see what my signal is from the cam and crank sensors. Depending on which is not reading, I'll make sure the wiring is ok, then I remove the sensor and look in the hole to make sure that the tone ring that the sensor reads isn't damaged in any way. Then I will bench test the sensor. It's just a magnet so it's a simple test looking for resistance to be within spec. Then I will condemn accordingly. It's actually fairly common for the crank sensor to be faulty in your vehicle. Best of luck!
The fuel filter is an integerated part of the fuel pump assembly and is located in the fuel tank. It's on the bottom of the assembly. Best of luck!
It should only take someone with basic automotive skills about an hour and a half to replace the plugs. Just make sure the engine is cold, you use ONLY OEM parts, and don't "drop" the plugs into the hole. Use the boot off an old spark plug wire or a spark plug socket with a rubber grommet on it to hold the spark plug so you can place it in the hole nicely. You don't want to risk cracking a plug or closing the gap. Most OEM plugs will come pre gapped. But I check the gap anyways just to make sure it's right. You will find the correct gap on the Catalyst sticker found under the hood. The fuel filter is in the tank. I wouldn't recommend replacing that yourself. Best of luck