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West Springfield, MA
The fuel filter is an integerated part of the fuel pump assembly and is located in the fuel tank. It's on the bottom of the assembly. Best of luck!
It should only take someone with basic automotive skills about an hour and a half to replace the plugs. Just make sure the engine is cold, you use ONLY OEM parts, and don't "drop" the plugs into the hole. Use the boot off an old spark plug wire or a spark plug socket with a rubber grommet on it to hold the spark plug so you can place it in the hole nicely. You don't want to risk cracking a plug or closing the gap. Most OEM plugs will come pre gapped. But I check the gap anyways just to make sure it's right. You will find the correct gap on the Catalyst sticker found under the hood. The fuel filter is in the tank. I wouldn't recommend replacing that yourself. Best of luck
It's not a very difficult job if you have the right tools and equipment. It's a job for a "B" level Technician and should take about 6 hours. It's pretty basic. Best of luck!
One thing you might want to consider is that there will be an air pocket in the system. If you just add coolant and drive you probably won't have heat and you run the risk of over heating the engine. You will be able to fill the system with the car off and the level will appear to be full. But to ensure that the air pocket is removed you will need to run the vehicle with the heat on and radiator cap off until the thermostat opens. I usually just wait until the cooling fans come on, top off the coolant (while the vehicle is still running), and make sure I have good heat at idle. Don't worry about measuring the amount of coolant you put in. When the system is bled and full it will over flow and the Over flow bottle is marked. Fill that to the hot line, wash up anything that spilled, cap the system and enjoy your car. Best of luck!
It will be under the glove box. Should take you about a half hour to replace. It's only a few screws and a connector. Best of luck!
The fuel filter is located on the cross member just forward of the fuel tank. Best of luck!
You have a timing belt
As long as the transmission is original. The easiest way to find this information is to call the dealership parts department. They can tell you what transmission is in your car when you give them the vin number. Best of luck
There are many factors that will cause no heat. After the replacement of the thermostat you want to be sure that the cooling system was purged of air. Air will find it's way to the highest point in a cooling system which in most cases is the heater core. When this happens you will lose heat at idle and in many cases the vehicle will over heat. A way to verify that this is the issue would be to bring the idle up to about 2,000 rpm's when the vehicle is in Park with the emergency brake on. If you get good heat coming out of the vents when you do this then you have air in the system. At this point you will want to double check for leaks. If no leaks then properly purge and top off the system. - If heat does NOT increase,. It is possibly that there is a blockage elsewhere in the system, water pump is not pumping properly, the thermostat could be incorrect, or installed incorrectly. Either way, you will want to bring it into a shop if this is the case. Any time there is no heat there is potential for further serious damage. Best of luck!
The only way to time this engine perfectly is with a series of manufacturer specific tools. But an easy way to check your work is to align all other marks and at about 1 o'clock on the injection pump there will be a hole "about" the size of a 3/16" drill bit (I just matched a drill bit up to the special tool and it's very close in o.d.). You should be able to but the bit in the hole (tip facing out of course) and behind the pulley it should slide into a a hole the same size that will lock the pump into place. The drill bit will serve the same exact purpose as the special tool. This is how to time the pump, but it only allows for perfect timing if all the other marks are set to the proper place. You won't really need any PC based software for this. But if in the future you need the software then I suggest you go to Ross-Tech.com and buy their Vag-com. I have been using this software in my shop on a daily basis and haven't once encountered anything that it was missing. There is also a less expensive version that covers much less but it will give you live data. Your best bet for that is to check e bay and type in "Vag-Com" into the search. If you need any illustrations or directions for the timing feel free to call the office and ask for James. We can fax you what you need. Best of luck