More About Points »
2000 Gmc Jimmy4x4
Problem ongoing for about a year and ½ and only after heavy rain. Not throwing codes, all dash lights and security check work like they are supposed to. Covering the hood during rain seems to prevent the problem.(I have some minor front end damage that may be allowing rain to enter where it shouldn't). One of my low beam headlights doesn't work, so I've been just using the high beams...Hi-Def bulbs are $$$ and that is what the shop recommended). The only other light that's out is the right side license plate light. Tired of shops wanting to throw parts at it when they can't figure it out, nor can I afford to, so picked up a test light, a DMM, signed up for Alldatadiy, and started keeping good notes and have been researching this myself. Trying to keep this short, but have a lot of info that I could share if needed. I have replaced the battery and the cap and rotor recently, but problem continues. I''ve focused on checking fuses when this happens, but most sites aren't clear/specific on what the readings mean & I haven't focused on relays yet. The next time it wouldn't st art after rain I checked fuses in the engine fuse block with the test light to negative on battery and noticed these didn't lite it, until it dried out & started....then they did light it.. TRL TRN, TRR TRN, TRL B/U, VEH B/U, ECM1, ENG1, B/U LP, OXYSEN, and IGN E (not sure about BTSI fuse – missed that). (It began starting again before I could check the Body fuse block in side of dash...Did check those when it was starting and all were fine). The only fuse I've ever had to change was the one for the cigarette lighter/Obd2 port, but that hasn't gone out since replaced about 4 mths ago. I notice that the schematic on Alldata shows the ECM1, ENG1, B/U LP and IGNE all in the bottom row on the “IGN RUN & Start BUS BAR Schematic. These fuses all show nothing on my DMM when it won't start, but battery voltage when it drys and starts. From what I've read, these will prevent spark at the coil, and I think the fuel pump too. Is there something I could check that would affect all of these fuses? I don't think it's the security, since the light on dash does as it should. Thanks for any help I can get!
Had trans rebuilt a year ago, now having trouble pressing in button on shift to shift out of park when cold. Some noise from front end started around same time. When checking, I also starting hearing some noise from behind rear passenger tire when key turned back. (2000 GMC Jimmy Diamond Edition 4x4 has a compressor in rear to use for airing up tires, etc...Mine is missing coverpanel so I later figured out had been accidentally turned on from something rolling into it...noise went away when I turned off). Anyway, I took it back to trans shop to check but shift problem didn't happen since it was warmer that day but I was told that the compressor was causing the front end noise and they just "disconnected it" since it wasn't "hooked up" anyway?? I've tried to research if this is ok & what all is run from it but not finding much. How could this have not been "hooked up anyway" if it was making noise? Likey they disconnected a year ago when rebuilding my trans? Wish I could find diagrams for things on this truck. PS - took to another shop - noise was alternator Thanks!
Having a few problems that started and need advice! What to deal with first & where to go? 1. For about a week or 2, I can't shift out of park for a minute or 2 when it's cold & has sat for a few hours, then it's fine. (Trans rebuilt at an exactly a yr ago & still under warranty). 2.Coming home on freeway, my "service engine soon" light came on & stayed on. 3.Next morning, I started it & to loud noise. Best description is a rough sounding consistent squeal....similar to noise when my serpentine belt went.(Went to nearest oil change place & they replaced it along with the tensioner 6 mths ago). I checked the belt & did notice about a 1" area on the edge of belt that was kind of white, but other than that, it looked fine. Also looked at it when running & as far as I can tell, looks fine but I'm no mechanic. Took back to them to check it & was told that belt & tensioner still fine & he thinks its a bearing in the alternator now?? (I've read that incorrect alignment/overtightening of belt could actually cause the bearing to go??) Thoughts on that? (No other symptoms ..no lights dimming, probs starting, etc. ( recently noticed when on freeway, occasionally int lights come on for a few seconds but my drivers side door hinge is broken/door doesn't close tight so have about 1/2” gap around the top of door - assumed lights due to vibration at high speed & still not sure...I've been climbing in from passenger side & hoping to get this fixed b4 it gets any colder but quote that I got was too high considering it's $20 for hinge & about 1/2 job...Now bigger things to worry about. Heated seat hasn't worked for a long time either & no one has been able to figure out why. They ran OBDII for "Service Engine Light" & said Cylinder 6 fault...(didn't tell me actual code looked it up - found P0306 & read that engine hesitation can be a symptom –( I have noticed this occasionally for a while now. (hesitates when taking off fast from dead stop, then will suddenly pick up speed like it should). As a woman, I dread walking into a repair shop & just want to be armed with as much knowledge as I can before I do so I don't keep throwing good $ after bad.. Need advice on type of shop to go to & aprox cost to have cynlinder 6 & alternator checked (also, what should be included? Can an auto parts store check anything for me first? (The engine light is no longer on after he ran the code).I don't want to end up replacing the alternator only to have it go again because there was really another problem. Or - should I take to trans shop 1st to see why probs shifting out of park when cold since it's under warranty? (Guessing trans shop not the best place to check the new issues though). Driving a borrowed vehicle for now so need to take care of this quick! Thanks in advance
I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4X4 Diamond Edition. After having transmission rebuilt (and an attempt to replace transfer case motor to get 4x4 working again since it hadn't been working for some time)....All seemed to go well with the transmission but the transfer case didn't solve the problem with the 4x4...they now think its the switch (actuator?) ...anyway...since they would have had to leave it in 4x4, they decided to remove the drive shaft so I would stay in 2 wheel drive instead. This made me very nervous but they said I wouldn't have any problems since it is only needed for 4x4....I was uncomfortable with this but didn't have much choice..They just said to try to bring back in when I can afford the nearly $100 for a used actuator switch and they could put the drive shaft back on and hopefully fix the 4x4. After picking it up from all of that, I noticed my steering wheel was a little crooked when driving straight, and it was pulling a little. (The trans shop claims that wheels were not removed to do the trans so shouldn't be related). I took it in to the place where I got new tires a few months ago to see if they could see if it needs an alignment and to rotate tires. They did the rotation but said an alignment wouldn't do much good since I need shocks. A couple days after the rotation, I noticed a grinding sound from my front brakes that doesn't seem to start until I am almost at a complete stop (not when I first start applying pressure to the brakes). I also noticed that my ABS light came on...(but doesn't appear to be staying on every time I drive). I read that they could have damaged my ABS sensor if they overtightened the lugs with a torque wrench with the rotation so I am about to take it back to be looked at but just wanted to be prepared. Is it likely that they caused this problem? I would think that if this was a brake problem, they would have told me I needed brakes when they did the rotation in the first place. Seems like too much of a coincidence that this just started. I shared about the transmission because I also want to know if it is normal to rebuild a trans without removing the tires because I also read that sometimes they only disconnect one side of something or other, which can put added stress on ball joints on the side that they didn't disconnect. Just want to be sure that what I was told is true, or if the wheels are usually removed to rebuild a trans. Sorry that was long, but this is really stressing me out and the last thing I need is more expensive repairs to pay for if they caused the problem. I would really like an expert opinion on what to do here. Thanks!
This is a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4 Diamond Edition with V6 Vortec 4300 4.3L, 4-speed electronically-controlled automatic transmission w/OD. After hearing the clunk sound, noticed a winding sound, then went to about 3 rpm on gage before shifting,and continues to do that. After shift,it seems ok but I havent driven far, so not sure what will happen when going over 40mph but also just noticed it won't go in reverse either. Reverse feels like neutral now. Bad financial situation right now, so trying to get a good idea of what the problem could be before taking in to a shop. Any ideas?
2 days ago, my "check gauges" light has been coming on...noticed that oil pressure gage is dropping from normal area to nearly 0, then back up again. Seems to drop as I'm stopping or slowing to make a turn but I'd have to check that again. This morning, I went out to check the oil & nothing is registering on the dip stick at all (when cold). No knocking sound and didn't notice any problems with driving when I came home from work last night. I'm just barely over due for oil change which is what I planned to do today but now I'm not so sure that is the best way to address the problem. Called the dealership to ask price to run diagnostic but was told $100 minimum to check (which I just can't afford right now)...especially if that price won't even repair any problems. I just had oil cooler lines changed less than 6 months ago at "The Brake Shop" and know they used "after market" parts so wonder if this problem could be related & if I should take it back there. No noticeable leaking oil this time but it had to go somewhere. Thinking maybe the seals aren't working properly?? That was an expensive repair to be having problems so soon again but I doubt they will admit it's the problem if I take it back there to be looked at again so need some advice??? What should I do? Can AutoZone check the "check Gauges" problem even though they said can't check the "service 4 wheel drive"? (another problem I've been having) Or...Should I just go ahead with getting an oil change to see if the problem goes away first and would they be able to run codes on "check gauges" light coming on? Thanks!