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Laguna Hills, CA
chuckh, If the fans are not coming it could be as simple as a bad fuse. the fans go bad also. The relay rarely fails but they do sometimes. In the fuse box, look for a 40amp fuse (fuse #4) replace it if it is bad, if it blows again then one of the fans is shorted or there is a short in the wiring. A simple way to check the relay is to swap it with a different relay in the fuse box (of the same type) Hope this helps... Robert Grove www.wego2umobilemechanic.com
check fuse #12 which supplies power to the park/neutral safety relay if it is good then you could have a problem with the park/neutral relay (should be in the underhood fuse box), the neutral safety switch (on the transmission), the ignition switch, of any of the wiring or connections in between the ignition switch and the starter. Other than replacing parts - you can swap the relay with another relay in the fuse box for quick check, if it works replace the relay - you will need a wiring diagram, and understanding of how to test electrical circuits and a volt meter. Even though the lights come on in the dash, sometimes an ignition switch wears out the contacts to the starter circuit. Also, if the vehicles is equipped with a factory anti-theft system or after market alarm with a starter disable feature, both have additional components which can prevent the starter for engaging. Robert Grove www.wego2umobilemechanic.com 949-288-3506
The shop that did the swap should have the ability to diagnose also. The OD light flashing means there are codes. before the trans was replaced the shop should have pulled codes to evaluate it and clear codes after replacing the trans so they can compare original codes to current codes. Some electronically controlled transmission problems are related to things outside the trans, tough to even guess without knowing codes and having a scanner hooked up during a test drive to evaluate performance, shift points, pressures and other important data that is required to diagnose it and only available with scanner that had datastream capability. If the shop that did the swap can't diagnose it find a shop that can. Good luck! Robert Grove, Wego2u Mobile Mechanic Orange County www.wego2umobilemechanic.com www.orangecountyautorepair.com
A communication failure can be caused by a number of different problems, the most common are wiring and a bad PCM - yes it is possible for the PCM to fail to communicate and yet work perfectly for everything else. The least expensive and easiest thing you can do is check for communication with a Generic OBD code reader. If it communicates ok and you get "no codes" then take it back for the smog check and let them know - ask them to do a "code and monitor status check" prior to running the test. CAUTION! do NOT clear codes, reset it, or disconnect the battery! if you do you will have to drive it long enough to run the OBD Monitors prior to the smog test. If your tool does not communicate, look under the dash at the DLC and check for broken or disconnected wires, beyond that without the proper tools, information and training it may be beyond what you can do yourself and more expensive than having a professional do it. I have seen a few times where the system would not communicate and I had to exit and initiate communications again or cycle the key off, then back on. but If you get no communication after several attempts then it's better to take it in. Your car's engine computer (PCM/ECM) communicates with the Smog test Machine through the data link (DLC) connector using the Global OBDII protocol (computer language). The PCM also has a factory protocol. Typically we (professional technicians) would try to communicate with the PCM on the factory protocol, then use a labscope to verify if there is communication at the DLC, if not next we go to the PCM and test the circuit directly at the pcm. If it works at the PCM but not at the DLC then it's a wire, but it is also possible for the PCM to fail to communicate and still work fine. Good luck! Robert Grove, ASE World Class Technician Automotive Hall of Fame 1996 www.wego2umobilemechanic.com www.orangecountymobileautorepair.com
If the puddle under the water pump is coolant the gauges will read normal until the coolant level gets low enough to cause overheating or a low coolant indicator (not all vehicles have this) to come on. I agree with the previous answer, pressure test it, make sure to look at any hoses near the pump. If you are not sure where the coolant is coming from have it check by a shop. Robert Grove www.wego2umobilemechanic.com Mobile Mechanic Orange county, www.orangecountymobileautorepair.com
There is only one fuse box - under the hood, and according to my diagrams all windows power up from a single 10amp fuse (fuse #25). I suggest having someone hold down a window switch while you wiggle the fuse and if that doesn't work change it, even if it looks good. Sometimes the female connection inside the fuse box looses and causes problems, also a fuse can look good but have a hairline break that makes it look good or is on the edge or the filament where it cannot be seen. you could also have a problem with the power or ground wire to the main switch or the switch itself. Unless want to pay a pro to troubleshoot you'll need to have a wiring diagram and know to to test voltage drop at the main switch ... or take a chance and spend the money on a drivers front switch, if it doesn't work pay a pro. your call, Robert Grove www.wego2umobilemechanic.com for mobile mechanic in orange county www.orangecountymobileautorepair.com
Best to get a second opinion,
You didn't say what kind of problem or symptoms if any you are experiencing, and whether or not the Check Engine Light is on.... was a scanner hooked to check for codes?
To answer your question, there is no set time frame for o2 sensors to last, they should be replaced when tested bad or degraded. I have replaced them on vehicles with as little as 60,000 miles and as much as 250,000 miles. They can fail a few different ways, the heater circuit can stop working, the sensor can be slow or out of range, or "dead" meaning it does not respond at all.
In most cased - but not all - if there is a problem with the 02's there should be a code related to the o2 sensor or fuel trim. There are also many other situations that can cause a drivability problem and codes, not all codes mean that the part is bad, for example some o2 codes can be caused by a cracked exhaust manifold or intake vacuum leak, and the 02 is actually good.
The wires and plugs should last much longer than 23,000 miles unless there is a problem causing the plugs to foul (won't affect the wires) - the wires should also last longer unless they are cheap, low quality wires or rubbing against something causing physical damage to the wire.
The o2's should be tested with a labscope to verify response time and range, the scanner does NOT test them but can assist the technician in identifying if they should be tested.
If you have a misfire, and you have a 5.4L V8 it does not have wires, it has COP (coil on plug) ignition system, some common problems with the Ford COP system is the coils and the plug boots that connect the coil to the spark plug, I always recommend replacing the boots along with the plugs.
Find a good mechanic that has and knows how to use a labscope to diagnose o2 sensors and ignition system.
Hope this is helpful, good luck!
Robert Grove, ASE Certified World Class Technician
Automotive Hall of Fame 1996, State of California Certified Advanced Smog and Emissions Instructor
Mobile Orange County Mechanic Service Irvine, Tustin, Huntington Beach, Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, Mobile RV Repair
First of all the answer is yes, it is worth performing a fuel system cleaning, if it is done completely and correctly, however there are different types of cleaning services. Most of the time they are not performing a complete cleaning service, and in fact they are not cleaning the fuel system they are cleaning the intake system - they probably don't even know the difference. I do not like the sales tactics used by many Franchise type repair shops to sell an otherwise legitimate service, making it sound like you have a problem and making it sound like they are doing more than they are. A truly complete and thorough service is time consuming and much more costly than $89, done right it is worth every penny! All internal combustion engines build up carbon deposits in the intake manifold, throttle plates, backs of the intake valves, top of the pistons and the fuel injectors. The most common cleaning service is a chemical drip, that is the bottle of chemical is attached via a hose to the intake and with the engine running the chemical is drawn into the engine trough the intake, past the valves and into the combustion chamber. That is what you will get for $89, and if the tech physically cleans the throttle plates with chemical and a brush prior to doing the drip then it is a good service and good value, however, this does NOT clean the fuel system (nothing is going through the injectors, unless they add a can to the gas tank)and one can of chemical isn't enough in most cases to do the job thoroughly. The only way the fuel system can be cleaned is by running chemical through the fuel injectors, either by adding it to the tank or running the engine from special equipment that is hooked into the fuel lines on your car and runs the chemical into the injectors. A "complete fuel system cleaning" consists of two parts, a top engine clean and a fuel injection clean. At best a drip service is a minor top engine cleaning, if they physically clean the throttle plates at the same time, it is a good value and will help, not hurt your car or pocket book. The next best service is a thorough top engine/throttle body cleaning: the throttle plates are physically cleaned with chemical and a brush, then while the engine is running the chemical is flooded into the intake a little at a time until the engine stalls (this wets the carbon on the valves and pistons) and after letting the chemical soak for 15-20 minutes the engine is started back up and run with the chemical drip, burning off the loosened carbon and excess chemical. The whole process take about an hour and uses two-three cans of chemical, and no way will you get this for $89, the chemical alone is nearly that much. A can of chemical can be added to the tank for cleaning the injectors, this is the best value and will clean the injectors over a period, of time but if they are really dirty (you would notice symptoms like hesitation, stalling, misfire) it is not as effective as cleaning the injectors with special equipment by running chemical thru the injectors while the car is running. The most complete (and costly) is combining the top engine clean i described above and hooking up special equipment the run chemical thru the injectors, the high concentration of chemical thru the injectors cleans the fastest and best (on the car). A minor Throttle body and drip cleaning is a good service about every 60k mile on any car, a more thorough top engine clean around 150k or if the car is run short distances and lots of stop and go traffic. Ad a can of 100% Techron to your tank every so often should keep the injectors clean. i only recommend injector clean with special equipment when i have identified driveability problems related to the fuel delivery. That's a lot of info, sorry if it makes your head spin! Bottom line: not all mechanics and services are created equal Best wishes, Robert Grove, ASE Certified World Class Technician, Automotive Hall of Fame, 1996 www.Wego2uMobileMechanic.com www.orangecountymobileautorepair.com www.malibumobilemechanic.com www.venturacountymobilemechanic.com Mobile Orange County Mechanic Service Irvine, Tustin, Huntington Beach, Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, Mobile RV Repair Mobile Mechanics in Orange County
The EGR Modulator works along with EGR Valve and Vacuum Solenoid to control the amount of EGR flow into the engine. EGR flow cools the combustion temp and reduce NOX emissions. Vacuum lines from the EGR and vacuum solenoid go to the modulator. The picture in my facebook post: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=472075606173934&set=a.276330489081781.57564.186477864733711&type=1&theater shows the modulator, EGR valve and vacuum solenoid, this should help you find it on your car Enjoy! Robert Grove, ASE World Class Technician, 1996 Automotive Hall of Fame http://wego2umobilemechanic.com/ http://orangecountymobileautorepair.com/mobile-mechanic-auto-repair-orange-county-locations/orange-county-mobile-mechanics/
It would be helpful to know if there are codes, does it stall only at idle or will stall while driving, when it stalls at idle does it seam like the idle speed is ok and it shuts off suddenly (like turning the key off) of does the idle seem too low to keep running? A low idle causing stalling can be a problem in the idle air control system, dirty throttle plates and carbon buildup in the engine. A sudden shut off as though you turned the key off is usually electrical/electronic ie: ignition switch, computer controls and sensors. Nissan 4cyl had problems with the distributor shaft leaking oil inside onto the crank angle sensor. If there is oil in the distributor cap, replace the distributor assembly, if not then it's better to have a professional look at it and test for the problem. Good Luck Robert Grove Wego2u Mobile Mechanics, www.wego2umobilemechanic.com Mobile Orange County Mechanic Service Irvine, Tustin, Huntington Beach, Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, Mobile RV Repair