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Laguna Hills, CA
I understand and feel your frustration, Yes, there are ways to diagnose intermittent problems but it can be time consuming (costs you $$) and inconclusive - you still pay for testing. The symptoms you describe are common to starter problems, and although it seems ridiculous that a car with 65k could have a bad starter it is not, it happens, not often, but it does happen. I have replaced all kinds or different parts on low mileage cars over the years. I have even had defective NEW parts. Unfortunately, intermittent problems can be elusive. I cant give u a diagnosis via email but based on your symptoms, the starter is the best, most likely choice. Robert Grove, ASE Certified Triple Master, 1996 Automotive Hall of Fame World Class Technician www.Wego2uMobileMechanic.com www.OrangeCountyMobileAutoRepair.com
I don't recall how the suspension is setup on the Toyota, but it is probably not adjustable. You could have structural damage, and/or a bent part that isn't obvious. For example, a very slight bend in the strut tower, spindle or strut will cause a camber problem and is very difficult to identify. On some cars the engine sub-frame can shift and cause a camber problem. Not knowing how far off it is and what the other angles are, and because there are many possibilities you will need to find the right shop - one that can properly identify the cause using a combination of alignment angles and structural measuring. Very few alignment shops have the ability to deal with damage that is not visible unless they can compensate by adjustment, and very few cars have caster/camber adjustments anymore. A body shop or an alignment tech that knows how to use alignment diagnostic angles like included angle and setback, and has the equipment to measure the structure will be able to find and correct the problem. Hope this helps, good luck! Robert Grove Wego2u Mobile Mechanic
I use only Motorcraft or Autolite Plugs in Ford vehicles regardless of how hard or easy they are to replace. The 5.4 V8 in your 2000 Expedition has a "COP" ignition system which has an individual coil for each cylinder mounted directly over the top of the plug. Even though it technically does not have a plug wire, there is a plug boot between each coil and plug. You do not need to remove the fuel rails nor have a special tool for the back plugs, just the right socket and extensions and plenty of patience. You may need to replace the plug boots along with the plugs depending on their condition, and be sure to use anti-seize on the plug threads and Dielectric grease on the plug boots. A standard labor guide allows 3 hours, but an experienced mechanic will not take that long; it will take a while to change them the first time you do it. Good luck! Robert Grove, ASE World Class Technician www.wego2umobilemechanic.com
panterakein, It is pretty hard to install the filter wrong as Roy said, and he is also correct that you could have a problem with the pump, or dirt in the tank or a Catalytic Converter starting to fail. There could also be other possible causes for the symptoms you describe but it is impossible to give a diagnosis or troubleshoot based on limited information. I recommend you have professional mechanic check it rather than guess at what it could be. The mechanic will need to confirm whether the problem is fuel related, ignition related, or a restricted exhaust. Once this is done the problem can be isolated. I don't service your area but you can call Jeff's Mobile Auto Repair 951 639-8305 Robert Grove, ASE Certified World Class Technician, Automotive Hall of Fame, 1996 www.Wego2uMobileMechanic.com www.OrangeCountyMobileAutoRepair.com
The relief valve is in the power steering pump and usually not serviced separately from the pump. Robert Grove, ASE World Class Technician www.wego2umobilemechanic.com www.orangecountymobileautorepair.com
The repair manual isn't much help, esentially it says to release fuel pressure, disconnect negative battery cable, raise and support vehicle, disconnect fuel lines and electrical connections at fuel tank, remove fuel tank, remove fuel sending unit lock ring, remove sending unit from tank. to install, reverse procedure. You will need jack stands, a good shop type jack, a special tool to release the locking connectors on the fuel lines, sockets and other tools to remove the straps that hold the tank and the clamps on the filler hoses. Also have a second person available to help balance the tank on the jack as it is removed and when installing it. use caution around fuel, no flames, sparks or incandesant "buld type" drop lights - they can break and cause a spark ... BOOM! You may also need strippers and crimpers, most replacement gm pumps have updated connectors that need to be spiced. This is a job better left for a pro unless you have the tools and some experience, the locking connectors can be tricky to remove and the hose dificult to get to, good luck! Robert Grove, www.wego2umobilemechanic.com
The Diagram I posted is right out of factory information - two different data bases had same info. I added another diagram of a different view that might help, and as hemicuda said, look under the dash on the passenger side and look at the diagrams again, according to the info in Mitchell, Alldata and the also the diagram that hemicuda linked to, it's there. And before giving a negative rating you might consider that I am taking my time to try and help. I am not responsable for the end result or the info that is confirmed from three different sources - I'm just the messanger! http://wego2umobilemechanic.com/?page_id=10 good luck!
The blower resistor is located on the front of the HVAC plenum assy aproximately center between the blower motor housing and the air distribution housing. I have adiagram in my blog @ http://wego2umobilemechanic.com/?p=66 Robert Grove WeGo2uMobileMechanic.com
The blend door actuator is relatively inexpensive, about $50 at a parts store, and although the repair instructions say the instrument panel must be removed I have done a few without taking out the dash. The actuator is a small black box with an connector. it sits on top of the plenum and attaches directly to the blend door shaft. It is a small electric motor that is controlled by the temperature dial on the dash and turns the blend door to change hot/cold position. the plastic gear inside the unit strips out, thats why you can hear it "doing something" but the door doesn't move. You may be able to replace it without taking out the dash. Remove the glove box and lower trim panel under the glove box, look through the openning to the left towards the middle of the truck, on top of the plenum for a small black box (about 2 or 3" squre and 1" tall) with a single connector - remove the connector and get a mirror in above it to see the screws. The toughest part is getting the right tool and your hand into the tight space, but it can be done, Good luck Robert Grove WeGo2uMobileMechanic.com ps just saw your original post date, did you pull the the dash?
No, the regulator has no effect on whether the pump runs or not, the regulator provides a modulated restriction in the returnl ine (it is after the injectors, in the return portion of the fuel circuit between the injectors and the tank). If the pump is not running (listen for the pump to run when you cyle the key on then off and back on) and there is no fuel pressure , a number of other problems could exist, there are some differences between cars but most late model cars use the computer to control a relay that turns the pump on and off. the fuse, relay and all the control circuits must be good. If the pump is running then the actual pressure reading is important, for that you need a pressure gauge installed on the shreader to read pressure when you cyle the key on and off. If their is power at the pump connector and a good ground (ground circuit testing is beyond the scope of an email) when the key is cyled and the pump does not run the the pump is probabley (but not always) bad. good luck! Robert Grove www.wego2umobilemechanic.com