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Sci Tech

Kansas City, MO

I am an ASE Certified Technician with advanced engine performance. I own 2 Sci-Tech Automotive Repair shop in south Kansas City, MO


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Question Answered: 

Dodge provides the window motor and window regulator as a complete unit. Remove the door panel, unbolt the regulator from the door and from the window.


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Question Answered: 

Your starter may have failed. Check the signal wire to the starter solenoid to make sure you are getting a signal.


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Incomplete combustion can cause the converter to give off a sulfur smell. The rough running is almost certainly the cause. Get the vehicle to a shop or you may destroy the converter, or worse.


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There may be some dis assembly involved with the estimating process. Frequently, if the repair can be done while it is disassembled then the estimate cost will apply to the job. If you ask them to reassemble the vehicle and bring it back later, so it can be disassembled again and repaired, don't expect to take credit for the 135. I don't know their policies, so you should ask.


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The reason a fuse blows is excessive current flow. When you select a lower speed on the blower, the speed change is accomplished by running the current through a resistor that resists the flow of current. On high speed full current is fed to the blower motor. The most likely cause is the bearing in the blower motor are wearing out which means it takes more electricity to make the blower move. Eventually the heat from the excess current flow blows the fuse. Caution: do not attempt to solve the issue with are larger capacity fuse, you might cause damage that costs a lot more than a blower motor.


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One common cause is crossfiring in the ignition system. In other words the spark is going to the wrong cylinder. If that happens when an intake valve is open, you get a backfire. The solution would be a replacement of defective ignition components. Spark plugs, wires etc.


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The theft warning light is the big clue. Most late 90's GM vehicles are equipped with VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) If your key has a chip on it (assuming you are using the correct key) then a really common failure are for the two 24ga wires that attach to the ignition lock cylinder to fail. They twist with each key revolution and easily break. Unfortunately they are inside the column so the column will have come apart to repair it. There are other anti-theft systems (no chip in this case) and there are other possible causes, the best answer it have it towed to a shop for diagnosis.


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I found this with a google search http://www.bestvalueautoparts.com/Replacement_Parts/PLYMOUTH/GRAND_VOYAGER/Illust_c_Belt_Routing.html


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Question Answered: 

The heat in your car works by passing hot coolant through a small radiator under the dash called a heater core. There are several things that can go wrong to produce the symptoms you describe. The most common is that your radiator is low on coolant. Since the heater core is higher than the radiator, if the radiator is low, the first thing that get starved for coolant is usually the heater core. No hot coolant, no hot air in the cabin. You may also have a thermostat that is stuck open. If so, then the engine never really gets hot, which means the coolant never get hot. Again, no hot air. You heater core could be plugged up with gunk preventing coolant flow. The best way to answer these question to take your vehicle to a reputable repair shop for diagnosis. Good Luck


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This is an ongoing pattern failure. The plugs comes out and takes the threads with it. It requires a special repair tool to correct. This happens so frequently that most shops will have the special tool. Retail cost $100 to $300. P.S. You can expect this to happen on the other cylinders over time. Good Luck


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