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Aprilmd01

Saint Louis, MO

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Question Asked: 

One of them told me that if I didn't my serpentine belt will come off and the vehicle wouldn't run at all. His price to replace it is $600. The other told me that I can still drive it & just replace it when the belt comes off? His price for labor is $50. I don't believe anything that either of them say. I have called various auto parts stores in my area and nearly all of them tell me that I must replace the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube in order for the compressor to be warrantied. I've also called several salvage yards regarding these parts. I have several questions: Is it necessary to replace all three parts? Is it ok to buy the parts used or will this eventually lead me to replacing them again? Can this car be driven to the shop or should it be towed? Roughly how long does it take to make this type of repair? Roughly how much should I expect to pay for labor for this type of job?


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Question Asked: 

One of them told me that if I didn't my serpentine belt will come off and the vehicle wouldn't run at all. His price to replace it is $600. The other told me that I can still drive it & just replace it when the belt comes off? His price for labor is $50. I don't believe anything that either of them say. I have called various auto parts stores in my area and nearly all of them tell me that I must replace the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube in order for the compressor to be warrantied. I've also called several salvage yards regarding these parts. I have several questions: Is it necessary to replace all three parts? Is it ok to buy the parts used or will this eventually lead me to replacing them again? Can this car be driven to the shop or should it be towed? Roughly how long does it take to make this type of repair? Roughly how much should I expect to pay for labor for this type of job?


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Check engine light is on.


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A mechanic told me that he would have to take my radiator out of my vehicle in order to find a replacement? I have previously bought used parts for my vehicle at the junk yard & was always given a list of vehicles with parts that were interchangeable with mine. Is it possible that the mechanic is going to trade my radiator in for cash or possibly bring it back to me & reinstalling it back into my vehicle? I've had this to happen to me before.


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Anti-freeze had leaked onto the ground & then shortly afterwards the car started running hot. The mechanic said that a nut/bolt that holds the compressor & AC intact has worked its way loose & now is lodged into my radiator. Does this sound right? This summer I had a mechanic to recharge my AC System & could something that he did or failed to do have caused this problem? Thanks


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The price for the alternator and a ballpark figure for labor.


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Sometimes the orange low-fuel light will come on and sometimes it doesn't. Mileage on half a tank of gas varies from 35-45 miles. Spark plugs & wires & intake manifold gasket were recently replaced. No lights other than the low-fuel light come on. The temperature gauge was going toward hot (about 2 increments past the half-way mark). Pulled car over immediately. Once cool opened the hood and notice coolant under the reservoir tank. Added more coolant & it hasn't ran hot since. Based on the issues mentioned, does it sound like I have something that needs to be diagnosed at a shop.


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The mechanic claimed that the engine only had 37,xxx miles on it.


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Before the engine was put in the car it sat for two years. I replaced front brake pads, rotors, rear shoes, and drums replaced three months before the engine went out. Now I have a problem at times, when I apply brakes, a clunking noise seems to come from the back passenger side of the car and then, the car bounces up a down. I've had two mechanics to tell me what they think is wrong with the brakes: Mechanic #1 - Told me that he test drove the car, took the wheels of, saw that there was alot of rust/brake dust, sprayed the car with some type of brake cleaner. After driving the car less than 5 miles, the noise is back. I took it back, the mechanic does the same thing as the first visit. Again shortly after driving it, the noise is back. The third and final visit the mechanic tells me that the noise is coming from the front of the car and that he needed to "turn my rotors" and "adjust the front pads." This didn't sound right to me. I thought that you "bleed the rotors" and "turn the drums." Mechanic #2 test drove the car, took the wheels off the car, and told me that one of the back brake shoes were cracked, there is a leak from the wheel cylinder, my drums need to be resurfaced or replaced, front pads, and rotors all need to be replaced. They said that the problem with the clunking noise and bouncing is coming from the rear of the car. They also said that the fact that the car sat for two years could have made all of these parts "go bad." I'm just overwhelmed with this information. Can you give me your opinion. The engine replacement cost me $1,380. Mechanic #1 - I don't believe is telling the truth nor do I feel is qualified to do the work. Mechanic #2 - I believe as for as the broken brake shoe is concerned and that there may be a leak, because he showed me the wet area & the broken brake shoes. I find it hard to believe that everything else has to be replaced. This estimate is close to $800.


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