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Sounds like you have air in the system you need to bleed the air out
More then likely your regulator has failed, you will have to remove your door skin and the window regulator. This may require several tools you may not have, and would be easier to just have done by a shop. Check eBay, or other online sites for a replacement most of the time you can get a motor and regulator combination a lot cheaper there, many with free shipping. This will save you a lot of money from OEM part and I have had very good luck with them.
The easiest way for you to learn this would be by purchasing a Haynes Manual for your cars make, model and year. The run about $20.00 from your local auto parts store, and will include step by step instruction, need tools and pictures. It will also have a lot of information for other repairs as well should you choose to do them yourself.
You will need to buy a compressor, accumulator (dryer) and orifice tube or expansion valve depending on your system. If you don't replace these components, most warranties will not be honored by the compressor manufacturer. They usually want to see a system flush kit on the same receipt as well. In addition to this you will need compressor oil, freon many auto parts stores offer a discount on these parts if you purchase all at the same time as a kit. And some will extend your warranty for by one or two years, be sure to ask this It's not something that they volunteer to tell you! I'm sorry I don't know the average labor rates for your area. But you should be able to go to the estimated cost section on repair pal.com to get an idea, just enter your zip code for shops in your area. If you are going to attempt this repair yourself, I would still take it to a shop with the proper equipment to vacuum the system down to -30hg. And recharge with proper amount of freon.
Do a compression test at a minimum, leak down test would be good if you can get the gauge set from a local parts store loan a tool program. If you have low compression in only the one head then yes it is probably only the rear head. However your gasket set comes with head gaskets for both heads and you are already tearing the engine down that far, you might as well do both while you are there. When you say the back of the engine are you meaning between the firewall and the engine? Or where the transmission mounts to the engine ( drivers side )? If it is at this point it is very possible just your intake gasket is leaking, this is a common place for it to leak. And many times will run down along the block where the head meets it and then down the back or front of the engine. I always advise that if you do remove the head have it pressure checked for cracks and refaced. Better safe then sorry
Check to see if you have any visual leaks around the fuel injectors, then check to be sure each one is firing. If these things seem to be fine you may have to remove the fuel rails to do a spray test, to check for clogged nozzle or bad injector.
check the pressure before the fuel filter, if you get readings in the mid to high 50's replace the filter. If still low replace the fuel pump. 20psi is not enough pressure to open injectors. Also check fuel pressure regulator and reyurn line check valve.
I'm pretty sure that year had a cable that runs from the key switsh to the parking pawl. this is a safty feature to be sure the car is in park, before you can remove the key or start. Check to be sure it is not broken or come loose. Newer cars now use the brake switch or electronic lock for the same purpose.
Check out airbags.com they will rebuild most ABS Pumps for $79.00 go to there site and get a quote for your car.
I'm only answering this now because Repair Pal has sent it to my email, because I'm in your area. There is not much more to say other then that I agree with Pushrod. If you really need someone to look at it for you I would be happy to, just let me know. And to you Pushrod I really hate to come on and just agree, with a good answer. But I didn't want to ignore a request sent from Repair Pal either, Sorry Brother.