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National City, CA
First - I have read all on-line information and this is NOT posted. I have searched the OEM service manuals and can't find these settings there either. I am asking for new information if anyone knows it. Here goes: Assuming an ERG system is working right, and with a vacuum gauge connected in line with the egr valve; the car is moving down the road 35mph - what should the vacuum to the EGR valve be reading on that vacuum gauge? How about 65mph with rpms at 2200?(assume engine warmed up and throttle is held stead with RPMS at about 2000rpms. Thanks
I get an intermittant engine code (about once a week but sometimes more often) that is P0401 - EGR Low Flow. The first think I did was to warm up the engine, then with a finger touching the EGR diaphram, I would increase RPMs to about 2000 rpms. I'd notice the valve would open but within a few seconds it would shut and stay shut until I let off the throttle. This was repeatable every time I tried it with the EGR valve opening each time for a few seconds then closing while I was still holding the throttle at high rpms (about 2000 rpms). I figured I'd just replace the EGR valve and gaskets, the vacuum hoses, the modulator thing next to the EGR valve and the VSV valve and I cleaned out the vacuum fittings into the manifold using pipe cleaners going pretty far in. That should do it right? Wrong - I still have the same problem. I've checked the following - If I manually open the EGR valve with a vacuum pump, the engine stalls immediately. If I put my finger over the EGR vacuum hose and increase rpms, I can feel the suction then it cuts off after that few seconds and stays off until I cycle the RPM's again. I have also tested for exhaust blockage by watching the vacuum to see if it drops at high rpms - it stays high. Also, there is no vacuum to the EGR at all when the engine is cold. I also bypassed the VSV valve and when I do that, the EGR system works and keeps working. Something is shutting off the vacuum supply by applying power to the VSV valve (incorrectly). I've read that the MAP sensor can fool the system and trigger this error but I am tiring of just replacing parts. Has anyone experienced this and solved it - or does anyone have some suggestions? If someone helps me solve this, I will pay for the help. I am good with meters and electronics. This problem started suddenly about a month after replacing the front O2 sensor. At that time, I was getting an O2 heater failure and that went away when the 02 sensor was changed. The parts used have been all geniune Toyota parts brand new. I am not getting any other MIL codes. My scanner can't do live monitoring that I know of but I do know how to use an ohm meter. Any help is appreciated. This is a Japan made 4 cylinder version with 70k original miles on it. It runs great except for this problem. Please help if you can - I'm out of ideas. Respectfully, Dennis
Best way to change is to jack up passenger side of car, remove tire, then install jack stands as a saftey precaution. Valve is accessible using a #12 socket with a 6" extension.
Your catalytic converter could be plugged up - preventing sufficient exhaust from getting out the tailpipe. This would cause this. Connect a vacuum guage to the intake manifold - make sure you're getting a reading - then hold the RPMs to 3000 and see if the vacuum starts dropping steadily over half the scale of the gauge. If it does, that's a sign of a clogged catalytic converter as well.
Did you get new rotors installed just before this happened? If so, have them checked and make sure the sensors don't have any metal shavings on them from a brake job.
Am getting the engine light about once a week (I reset it - it will stay off a while then come back on). It always reports P0401 Low EGR flow. This is the Japam made camry for those that know the differences. I replaced the EGR valve and gaskets - verified the ports were not clogged (used pipe cleaners and ran them through until they were sticking inside the manifold). I replaced the diaphram filter thing next to the EGR with the hoses interconnecting between them - all hoses are clear and I used only real Toyota parts. I checked the VSV valve and I think it's acting abnormally. After warming up the engine - I can quickly increase rpms to 3000 and I notice the EGR valve opens for just a split second and then closes - even if I hold the RPMS. It does this repeatedly. I found that the VSV valve is causing it - opening the air flow just for a second, then blocking it again. So - there's no situation when the EGR valve stays open - even at 3000 rpms. Maybe this is normal for this car, but maybe it's not - any ideas? I bought the vsv valve too when I got the other parts but I hadn't put it in yet because it was so hard to get to. Any suggestions on how to get to that valve are welcome too. I did the vacuum drop test recommended by an earlier post (connected a vacuum guage to the manifold - was reading pretty high - around 24, then I manually opened the EGR valve with the engine holding at 3000 rpms, The vacuum did drop 3 on the gauge.) One note: I got a MIL error saying the front O2 sensor heater had failed before I had the problem with the EGR error. I replaced that O2 sensor (also with geniune Toyota part) and it wasn't a week later I got the first EGR P0401 error. Could be bad luck - but if I got a flakey 02 sensor - how would I know? Does anyone know how to test one using a multimeter and what readings I should look for? Please advise on the EGR VSV valve suspect problem (is it working normally but turning off right after turning on? Please advise on best way to get at the VSV valve to change it. (can't seem to reach it front the top or bottom. Please advise on how to test the O2 sensor when I have only a multimeter. I have an electronics background - I just don't have a Toyota tester. Thank you all very much for any advise - this has been a frustrating problem. I will do what it takes to fix it but I don't want to keep buying parts that don't solve the problem. The car is a 4 cylinder automatic and has 70k miles on it. Respectfully, Dennis
The fan should come on by itself - on and off repeatedly even when the air condtioning is off. There is a temp sensor that triggers a relay to supply power to the fans. Something is wrong with one of those (the sensor or the relay). You could also have a blown fuse. Turning on the air conditioner triggers the fan to come on regardless of whether the temp sensor is working.
This recall is for the V6 engine - but it may give you a starting place to look at yours. Recalls for the 1999 Toyota CamryDrive Train: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL Campaign Number: 01V012000 Dates Manufactured: 08/1997 to 11/2000 Number of Vehicles Affected: 53,061 Model Years Affected: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 Date Owner Notified: 02/2001 Defect Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH CRUISE CONTROL AND V6 ENGINES, AND BUILT AT ONE OF TWO LINES AT THE KENTUCKY PLANT. THE ACCELERATOR CABLE HOUSING COULD BE DEFORMED AT THE CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR-TO-THROTTLE BODY CONNECTION. THE ACCELERATOR INNER-CABLE COULD WEAR AWAY AND EVENTUALLY BREAK. Consequence Summary: THIS COULD ALLOW THE THROTTLE TO RETURN TO IDLE OR REMAIN IN ITS MOST RECENT POSITION REGARDLESS OF ACCELERATOR PEDAL OPERATION, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE ACCELERATOR CABLE. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN FEBRUARY 23, 2001. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT TOYOTA AT 1-800-331-4331. Recall Notes: TOYOTA RECALL NO. 10A.ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
It's behind the glove box. You have to remove the glove box to get to it.
There isn't one on this car. Instead, the car uses a different device called a MAP sensor.
Mine did this too. I pulled all bulbs out, the pushed them back in, pushed on the connectors to the bulbs - no more problem (been 2 months since it happened).
check with a flashlight - is anything stuck in the seat mechanism? Are you already as far back as it will go?
1400.00 - there is no aftermarket bumper cover and they are expensive. The chrome logo will need to be changed too and often the foam behind the bumper will have cracked or broken - requiring replacement.
When the front seal was changed, the crankshaft may have been moved front and backward more than normal while removing the front pulley (this is often very hard to remove) - and if that happened, the rear seal could have been damaged. One or more of the crankshaft bearings has a side collar that is designed to prevent front to back movement of the crankshaft, but these wear with mileage and I've seen crankshafts move front to back quite a bit as a result of that bearing wear with half the mileage you have. The engine wouldn't normally cause the crankshaft to move front to backward during normal driving, but the process of removing the pulley from the front of the crankshaft could have resulted in that front to back motion enough to damage the rear seal - creating a new leak. In this situation, the cause would be a worn engine - not the tech, as this wouldn't occur if the main crankshaft race bearing wear wasn't out of spec. This is what I think happened if the leak started as soon as the front seal was replaced.