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I would recommend a test when it dies to see if it is losing spark, fuel, or ignition signal. The 3.8l engine has certainly seen its share of electrical connection issues to modules, crank sensors, etc.
Any DOT3 fluid will work fine. There is not a measurable difference in brands of brake fluid.
They have had issues with the actuator assy. on those. Checking for a signal at it when in 4X4 would confirm if it has failed.
I would start by verifying power to the circut is good, the fuse, etc. Also the ground. Sometimes the wiring that passes thru to the driver's door breaks where it flexes. This can disable the entire system.
It doesn't have it's own fuse so if it was a fuse, something else would not work as well. I would look at the switch or possibly the adjustment of the switch.
That is not an uncommon problem. Typically the cause is a faulty switch which tells the body computer that the door is closed.
I would strongly recommend a set of eight as well as goo with an OEM or high quality coil. You could try disconnecting them one at a time until you find the one that does not effect how it runs and know that is the failed one as well.
Have the rotors measured to determine if they can be resurfaced. If so, it would be best to have it do with an on the car brake lathe. If the brake pads have plenty of thickness left on them, they would not need to be replaced.
Most likely an issue with the steering gear, but have it tested. Make sure whoever tests it had a tester that measures BOTH flow and pressure, this will eliminate any mis-diagnosis and unneeded repair.
Several things could cause it to run hot with the CEL on. Restricted convertor, sticking thermostat, etc. It would be only a guess as to what is wrong with the information you have given. Parts Guy is correct, the first step is to have a read of the computer performed, second would be to inspect and test the system it indicates the fault is in. Testing is always cheaper than guessing when it comes to auto repair.