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Car sat idle for 6 yrs and front calipers were in op. New calipers along with new pads for from and new pads only on rear..
New clutch, pressure plate throw out bearing etc..
Just rebuilt this 98 350.Heads milled and tested, block tested and honed new pistons,rings,bearings,oil pump, new cam and bearings and new lifters. Started up fine, have a very rough idle. Firing order is correct and timing is correct. all hoses and wires reconnected. Totally out of ideas here. Cylinders are firing. entire engine shakes and has very little power. Have checked for vacuum leaks and can find none. Engine was running this was before the rebuild. Any suggestions????
2012 F-150 STX 4X4 5.0L When in low range 4WD the automatic transmission will not shift through the gears and stays in 1st gear. When RPM's hit the 4000 range it then will shift into second and give you whiplash in the process.I can manually shift through the gears using the gear selector however. I have owned several 4WD trucks and all have shifted normally in low range 4WD. This something new that Ford has put into their transmissions? Has anyone else had a simalar problem?
The 2002 and newer Explorers do not have a solid rear axle and utilize a independent 4 wheel suspension. The rear drive axles are actually CV type axles found on front wheel drive vehicles. The differential seals are actually on the differential itself and not on the end of the axle. The half-shaft axles are easily removed and the seals become visable for relatively easy replacement.
I had the same problem on a Dodge Ram which has a very similiar front end. It"s called a trac-bar which prevents the front alxe from shifting side to side. One way to verify if it's the track bar is to put it in 4WD and get up to 50. If you do not have the wobble then it's the trac-bar. Good Luck!
I've had the same indicator light on my Solara. It't a warning indicator the alerts the driver that a bulb has burned out on the car. Check all your bulbs to find the one at fault and replace. The indicator light will reset automatically.
I to had a similiar issue with a friends truck. The crankcase filled with coolant from the engine block. I immediately assumed a head gasket was blown. I tore into the engine to find that the head gaskets were in good shape and not blown. After searching for the source of the leak I noticed that the intake manifold gasket had failed (blown) and caused the leak. I could have saved a lot of money simply by checking the manifold gasket. These Chevy engines are notorious for intake manifold issues. Before dumping a bunch of money into head gaskets I strongly suggest taking a closer look at the intake manifold gasket before digging too deep into the cylinder heads. Many times the head gaskets are not blown and you can save a ton of money and repair the engine as well. Good Luck!
The secondary air pump comes on and runs until it completely drains the battery. (sounds like a small vacuum cleaner running). I located this pump just behind the fog light on the driver side and unplugged it. This of course turned on the Check Eng. Light. Diagnostic results (Secondary Air Pump) lack of flow. I don't recall the specific code number. A new pump costs about $375. How do I know what is causing this pump to suddenly come on while in the garage at anytime and drain my battery? Is it a short circuit in the pump or the ECM telling it to come on? Anyone else had this problem?
I've been haunted by engine performance issues for over a month now.Now my transmission seems to be slipping. The Power/Comfort selector switch light just above the shifter blinks when in the Power Mode. What exactly does this blinking light telling me? I'm assuming it's time for a trip to the salvage yard for the whole car.
136k miles. After heating up my car seems to bog down almost dying and then the rpms come up to about 1500. It does this about 4-5 times in a row and then clears up and runs fine.It only does this when accelerating. There is excessive pressure in the fuel tank when I open the cap.Could this be the fuel pressure regulator?