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Bunker Hill, WV
IF you put a REALLY high amp fuse in , then maybe you'll see smoke were the short is so you can fix it and then put the right voltage fuse back in....or you can check for wire damage in the tailgate area harness and make absolutely sure you have the correct type bulb and it is in the socket correctly....really...you'd be surprised......oh just messin about the right voltage fuse... they control current (amperes) not voltage.
Sounds like a factory service manual would be a GOOD start.
With the same or better malfunction?...In other words WHAT'S the m..f.? gulb out? Angel lost wings? angle (corner marker lamp) wires damaged ? bad Ground ? Loose connection? Dim? Installation is reverse of removal. OWNERS MANUAL.
"OWNERS MANUAL" twenty years of college and a few million in the bank still won't make up for not reading a really BORING book. It sometimes has better info then the service manual(scarey thought). Reminds me of a customer I had years ago , that was literally a 'rocket scientist' (no kidding) , and he screwed up head gaskets on a ford ranger V-6 , USING THE SERVICE MANUAL! although that thought was uhm...useless.never mind....
Both are...Air density changes , and if all normal maint. has been kept up with ,assuming no mech/elect defects , the computer automatically adjusts the mixture using readings from little thingys called sensors , O2s ,MAP , BAP,MAF(SOME),IAT , TPS , CTS , BPEGR , VLS , ETC.....BUT IF IT'S KARBRATED....OH WELL..
I.A.C. >>>If your not sure how to test it,then it'll be less expensive to have someone experienced with E.F.I. diagnose it<<< make sure you Tell them what screws you've turned and parts have been replaced so they don'waste their time and your money.The idle air adjustment screw has a cap on it from the factory for a reason........this is a year and a half late .....but was my guess close? If you can't dazzle them with brilliance , baffle them with bu.......
How many miles on it? automatic or manual trans? check engine light on? Smooth loss of power or rough/shaking feel? Better as long as you don't go over 3000 RPM? It only takes a few seconds to foul a spark plug , so having had them changed 'a couple of YEARS ago' is a starting point . distributer , PCM , V-TEC (if equipped), Think of it as a living breathing being and learn how it's "organs' (parts) all work together and it'll be much easier to diagnose by symptom (response to your input while driving) FOR EXAMPLE does it feel athsmatic, or does it feel like someones holding their foot on the brake?... By the way ....does anyone out there know how to remove passenger side lug nuts from a '65 plymouth barracuda??
P0420= catalyst below efficiency level-not a sensor problem. 4 or 6 cyl. engine? will determine what cat is needed . Have dealer check VIN# for possible software updates prior to throwing parts at it (may just be software error)................kinda like the very last line of answer #2.....I've only done ....like a hundred of those updates .for exactly that reason....never mind ....
find out how the sensor works ?does the broken stem have a float with an electrical contact on it?(like some brake reservoir switches) ..also you say 'water' I say 'BMW coolant'...BIG difference water BAD BAD BAD for aluminum
take it to the dealer .How many miles on it?Is it parked out doors. Let me know , I can tell you what to expect them to sell/tell you and what would be realistic.HONDA PARTS FOR HONDA CARS! ...I believe same for any other make. Factory parts are best.EXCEPT for a YUGO.(oops)