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Bunker Hill, WV
I know it's been almost 2 years since the question posted but I' really curious....did you ever get it fixed and was it by the same ASE "master tech"????? jus curious.......
It tells the PCM what gear position your transmission is in. any trans service recently ? could be an adjustment ,but unlikely. Best to have a trusted shop with the right scan tool diagnose it. (dealer may be best and easiest to hold accountable for their diagnosis)
has the car been hit , or do you have non-stock rims/tires on it?Is it lowered? If yes to any of these than the extra adjustment a camber kit will allow will help.If 'no' to those questions AND you're not having tire wear issues then they just want to sell stuff (in my OPINION).BE sure you don't need tie-rods or control arm bushings...common on those years .
get service manual. many models with electric fans have a 'coolant temp sensor' for the PCM (engine controls) and another one for the gauge and fan controls .check to see if the fan(s) come on with the a/c turned on , if so then that should rule out faulty fan motors. wiring diagrams and circuit descriptions would be very helpful for you.also with key off/out physically check the fan(s) for damage / free movement.
Suggest pulling plugs to start. keep track of which cylinder each plug came out of.have some one who is knowledgable about 'reading' plugs take a look for signs of poor wear or firing. MAKE SURE that you have the factory specified plugs in it!!! sometimes aftermarket will sell you fancier plugs OR the incorrect cheaper plugs. check for signs of restricted exhaust.if suspected , improvise by 'creating a leak in front of the 'restriction' (loosen something...carefully) and test driv or monitor with vacuum guage or scanner (MAP or BAP voltage)
Check engine light BEFORE it shut off? How many miles on engine? check dealer first ..Be prepared with VIN # so they can check for recalls , updates , warranty status etc. Also be prepared to answer questions about maint. history & other symptoms/changes in driving conditions.
First look for wet oily spots on all lines to and from the compressor,do a good visual check for damage and wet spots on condensor.fix leaks first.If you just want to band-aid it with a can of r-134 (with dye) than use caution and follow directions (read twice then try) good luck!don't know if any brand is better than another -they're all regulated to an extent.
ONLY use FACTORY fluid...If it doesn't look and smell like brand new ,do 2 or three drain & fills I personally don't recommend using a flush machine ...at higher miles it can stir up more problems than it fixes.DEFINITELY stick to factory fluid!!!!
describe conditions...HOW fast..bumps ..turns...accelerating...braking...sudden left/right turns...noise more noticable with windows up/down...let us know more and we can help.!
to many possibilities to list...get it scanned , get codes ,determine then if you need to get further diagnostics,to narrow down the Cause of the code(s)