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Bunker Hill, WV
Just to 'push' pushrods point , it's all in the details , and NONE are to small!!! ANY little change in condition , that either aggravates OR cause the symptom to stop , is important! When it does happen , if road/traffic conditions are safe , try and play with the throttle to CAUSE it to happen. Things to watch and note---RPMs , vehicle speed , load condition(level/slightly up-hill/downhill coasting) gear position/selection---With the gear thing....IF the symptom is aggravated at say , 35MPH , see if it does it at 35 whether you are manually selecting 2nd gear , or if you have it in drive. I've said enough , I think you get the drift. Pushrods always rigth.....
Did you test for power and ground at drivers motor connection? Checked fuses?May have 1 fuse for each window , don't know specifically for that model , but have seen it on several other cars. Test door harness where able , make sure no broken wire?(s)
Which engine? 2.2L 4cyl.? How many miles on engine? Common leaks are the power steering pump/lines , and the oil seals (3) under the timing cover as you were told. Should be cleaned well and monitored first to verify , and if the leak is from ANYTHING under the timing cover , I would recommend doing ALL seals--cam , crank , and oil pump(which is actually an O-ring type seal) That last one will evade many , not familiar with it. It will start puking rather suddenly when it does finally give out. WITHOUT the timing cover off and watching it with engine running(again , being familiar with the engine) , it will almost always be assumed to be the crank seal leaking , because of the oil running out the very bottom of cover. CLEAN and diagnose(VERIFY) first , may cost an additional hour of diagnostic labor , but will get the job DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME , which is always less expensive than guesses.
Sounds like loose connection , or failed starter. BOTH can be checked/tested & VERIFIED , before spending money on parts.
"Consumers Reports Used Car Buyers Guide".....WELL worth the investment.
Glad you're persistent! Even though you didn't reply to you're 'goodbye' post , along with pushrod' reply , my questions still stand. What would help in part of the diagnosis ANY issue not just front ends) , would be the specific conditions the noise occurs under. Is it only (or worse) under acceleration , deceleration , worse or less on turns , more exaggerated at SPECIFIC speeds ,ETC. ANY answers to those conditions will help narrow down suspect area , before it's up on the lift , which most likely as pushrod said , be the ultimate point of discovery.Good luck. ....Final thought.... It's not only at low(under10MPH) speeds on turns , is it?
The cause of the 'check engine' light , may be causing the cruise control not to work. Problem with an emissions control , check engine...........
What are you 'growling' about?? Your posts were made in more of a statement type of phrasing , not really sounding like a question about what to do to get the noise to stop. You replaced the hubs and that didn't make a difference ....more to the story?? Conditions? Then question , which usually ends with a ?(question mark) good evening............nevermind.......
????second opinion on what???Maybe have an independent tire shop assess the condition and cause for it??? What is the problem???UNEVEN wear ,or just didn't get the life out of them , or they don't handle well at 90 MPH in the rain??
Could be the belt tensioner , or is it the A/C compressor clutch kicking on & off? IF it concerns you , maybe have it looked/listened to by a pro.?