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Bunker Hill, WV
TWO rear brake lights? 2001 should have three left , right and center (or high mount)or if it's got a spoiler the third light may be mounted in that. EITHER WAY if one out of three is working then it's not your switch. If it's just left and right brake lights not working but 3rd on does , check the wiring in the tailgate/trunk especially around the hinges for breaks.never mind I just noticed this was from a month ago .....hopefully it's already fixed.(or someone rear-ended you cause you stopped and they didn't notice any brake lights and BAMM!! ...you get the picture .
are you sure it' a 3.2L not 3.0?
do you mean you can'separate the rim from the hub on the car? LOOSEN ALL LUG NUTS THEN RUN THEM BACK IN JUSTUNTIL THEY TOUCH RIM..NO TORQUE ...THEN DRIVE IT IN A SAFE AREA WHERE YOU CAN STOP AND GO &LEFT & RIGHT SUDDEN START/BRAKING AT LOW SPEED .RE-CHECK FREQUENTLY TO SEE IF ANY RIM MOVEMENT ON HUB AND LOOSEN NUTS TINY BIT AT A TIME .I HAVE DEALT WITH MANY SUCH STUBBORN ALUMINUM (AND STEEL ONCE IN A WHILE) RIMS AND THIS METHOD WITH SOME PATIENCE AND COMMON SENSE DOES WORK. A GOOD BRAND OF PENTRATING OIL MAY BE HELPFUL (NOT SILICONE SPRAY).OR depending on your insurance coverage .......................oops a pothole/curb did that..
Give better description of when it happens ....cold start-up , after warm on hills , accellerating on turns,Sitting still in neutral giving it gas? in drive with foot on brakes while giving it gas ....ETC. get my drift? ..WHAT's "the variable" in "it varies when it happens" thanks.
Look at your last sentence..."IT ONLY STAYS ON IF YOU KEEP YOUR FOOT ON THE GAS". Was it like that before you replaced all those parts for a single cylinder (#6) misfire?IF it wasn't then I'd suggest working backwards to find a vacuum hose off or a mass air flow sensor unplugged THEN if your still getting only P0306 then stick to diagnosing what's related to that cylinder Give me more input I give you more output..... IF I'm even getting you on the right track.I can help with some suggestions for things to check without a scan-tool if that helps.
How many miles on car? Were the tires/wheels serviced recently?(within the last 500 miles or so) What speed does the noise start at ( assuming the roaring noise is while your moving) . does it change when you turn , stop , or accelerate? more exagerated when turning one way or the other? was it by any chance only making this noise while the light was flashing ...and then went away? Not to come back? If that's the case....read the owners manual regarding traction control operation.Some cars it's normal for the light to flash (and ABS make noise) WHILE THE SYSTEM IS ACTIVELY PROTECTING YOU>>>I.E.--unseen ice/gravel or sand on a turn ,etc. Again check the owners manual.
solenoids don't whir they 'click'starter motor whirs but not if the solenoid does not engage causing two events...kicks the starter drive gear out to the flywheel then at the same time connects the power to the starter motor through contacts inside (just like you jumping them on the outside but without the gear kicking out) which then in turn through the miracle of gear reduction it spins the flywheel (ring gear) ......unless one of the gears is damaged which would make a really nasty sound at times.. good luck.
IF your talking about passing emissions inspection , check your local laws concerning repairs/costs/& waivers or exemptions BE EDUCATED OR GO BROKE LEARNING? good luck
How many miles on it? what maint. have you done ? what kind of parts ?--cheap aftermarket , premium aftermarket, or OEM mitsubishi (preffered)?.. Do you do any of yor own maint.?
Pull spark plugs keep in order of cyl.. inspect for wear .make sure they are CORRECT OEM cyl #5 should look different from the others.Check VIN# with dealer for any bulletins regarding this issue.follow the other suggestions.