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Bunker Hill, WV
Get up to 75 , then gently apply the brakes while maintaining 75 , if it stops shaking , start with the struts.
Auto. trans? Describe the shift symptoms in more specific detail , please. Or get a light abd look for things that are between the trans case and body/subframe. they are pretty obvious.By what you're describing , it's not the cause of your problem.
IF it is torque coverter 'judder' as Honda describes it , maybe it's taken a while because it's not seen by the dealers in Elements. We see it very often in the Pilots and Odysseys , but not the others. TRY changing the trans fluid and use ONLY Honda ATF!! Aftermarket fluids may worsen (or cause) the symptoms. IF after changing the fluid , the symptom lessens or goes away , then that would help to confirm that it is in fact the torque converter 'lock-up' clutch that is causing the 'shuddering'.If that's the case , just change the fluid every 20-30K and stop worrying about it.Have the flashing 'D' light diagnosed by an independent trans shop if you don't trust the dealer.It is most likely a faulty pressure switch.Whatever you do DON'T have the trans 'flushed' ONLY do drain & fills with Honda fluid.
Have trans scanned for codes.(maybe the reason for the sluggish take-off is that it's starting out in second gear , or the lock-up clutch is engaging incorrectly(early).
Did you put a new tensioner in?
I see smoke........and I'm on the East coast!!!Ask to see the supposed carbon build-up (not photos of another engine)on your engine.
I couldn't find a TSB 01-009 , but Honda does have a 'Service News Article' from June 2009 about the rear main bearing cap bolts leaking. Is the oil leaking on the side of the block towards the firewall? If so , then you can have those bolts re-sealed. About a 2 hour job and letting it sit overnight for the sealant to cure before starting engine.
Did you check ALL fuses or just the ones labeled for interior lights? Is the wire that you said 'shorted' broken still? How many wires are there? One or two with different colors?
If they all stopped working at the same time , it's most likely the 'master switch' (drivers door). ALWAYS best to diagnose first , If you're able to , check fuses as already mentioned in first reply then check for power and ground at switch.Depending on labor rates in your area and what it would cost for diagnostics , just popping a switch in may be the lesser of two evils.I'll repeat so I don't get scolded.....test first , guess second(if needed).......and make sure to check ALL fuses (under hood and under dash)
Check 'Tirerack.com' , I have found their reviews to be quite accurate.