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Bunker Hill, WV
If they did ,they would be required by law to notify the owner of the vehicle (at that time) about it.you could contact the dealer (with your VIN#) and the can tell you the history of any open recalls and ones that have been completed or time has run out on (time usually has to do with warranty extensions not recalls though)
also check your owners manual. Many newer vehicles have fuse boxes (power distribution boxes) at several different places (Ex. 2010honda odyssey with rear ent.-2-3 under hood one left one right under dash several can be in the rear depending on trim level one for towing package one for sliding doors etc.And without a dought the cables got hit backwards , otherwise the condition that blew all those fuses would've been pre-existing , which is not how it was described as happening. Stated many things still not working, but does the car start and run normally (no warning light(s) stay on , on the dash?
How is the oil getting 'into' spark plug? Get that diagnosed or you might not need to worry about the turbo.
put the system on re-circulate rather than 'fresh' and see if you still have airflow.Can you manually control the fan speed ? does the blower motor make any wierd noises when it does work?
FORGET the governor , unless the governor in the trans has failed. "SMOG" test ---what comes out of the tailpipe. JUST for an extreme example . trans has a failure causing it to start out in second gear but works fine otherwise , (I'M jus' sayin') that extra load created by starting out in second is affecting the tailpipe pollutants.If the torque converter lock-up clutch isn't working properly or it doesn't go into overdrive.....get it? all trans problems not engine ..yet they affect the tailpipe (in the end) (get it?)
who did the BG induction service , and was the car taken out on the highway and'blown-out' as some of us old schoolers would say.I've been in a shop for a while now that no longer uses induction services like that because of ignorance in proper procedures and the effects on a catalytic converter that's having excessive raw fuel dumped into it and then left to sit .In six months I saw my service mgr buy several cats(mainly one 'tech' who is no longer there was the cause BLAH BLAH BLAH ..........Anyhow check manifold vacuum at idle ,get ford parts (don't particullarly like fords but no matter ...FACTORY parts are always best! IF It's below 17" at idle in neutral w/no accessories on then my next scattered thought would be ....150,000 miles?timing chain wear? wobble crank pulley back and forth by hand ..if more than 5-7 degrees of play I'd start there .
What tune was the relay humming? I've only known relays that 'clicked',however low voltage (many possible causes)or a locked up engine have been known to make starters hum (usually just a low monotonous tune, no popular songs)..ON a more serious note(no pun intended)..Did you test the starter before installing it ? did you try to turn the motor manually(from flywheel or crank pulley end)?
will it stall in park or neutral? Or does it idle on its' own? More detail = more possibilities. If it does stay running in neutral...I would suggest that as you come to a stop rather than double-pedal. Do you have ALLSTATE?.................
MY question would be....WHO charged the a/c system
TWO rear brake lights? 2001 should have three left , right and center (or high mount)or if it's got a spoiler the third light may be mounted in that. EITHER WAY if one out of three is working then it's not your switch. If it's just left and right brake lights not working but 3rd on does , check the wiring in the tailgate/trunk especially around the hinges for breaks.never mind I just noticed this was from a month ago .....hopefully it's already fixed.(or someone rear-ended you cause you stopped and they didn't notice any brake lights and BAMM!! ...you get the picture .