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Bunker Hill, WV
Check electrical connections in trunk. Maybe body shop missed or didn't get it plugged into the connector all the way.
You will need to have those systems scanned (probably at a dealer) to properly diagnose the cause, most likely electrical in nature , not mechanical.
Just in case------double check all connections!
System still has debris in it if oil is contaminated. Did the original compressor grenade internally?
Possible lock actuator failure or wiring problem in tailgate harness. Has it ever had any body work done on the rear right quarter or tailgate?
Brake rotors(front) are probably warped. IF this symptom was not present prior to the rack replacement , then the front wheel lug nuts are probably unevenly & over-torqued leading to the rotors warping. Either way the fix would be to resurface(if still within limit for machining) or replaced (with new pads if existing pads are at or below 1/2 life).
Accessory drive belt or timing CHAIN? Any drivability issues or check engine light? Oil changes kept up with?
Either remove belts and check individual components and pulleys , or carefully use a stethescope to isolate the cause. You say 'at start-up'-----how long does the noise last ? 1 sec. 5 sec. ?
IF you are refering to where there are (or used to be) 2 long studs for the upper engine mount bracket , then you need the timing chain cover.
Have the shops you've had it to been able to duplicate the symptom? What systems/items have they tested? What maint. history? OEM spark plugs and wires? Original dist.? Timing belt (how old?) Oil leaks from where and how bad (don't say none , at that mileage you at least have seepage some places).More info will help.