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Bunker Hill, WV
how is it being charged and tested before putting it back in the vehicle?
can you say 'BOOM'?.....sure you can.............never mind.........It' a spot in the fuse box. honda makes a special jumper plug for that , to manually read codes and reset the light.
Have someone watch your brake lights .With key on,engine off try holding your foot on the brake pedal,make sure your brake lights are on and try to shift from park. If you have no brake lights ,check the brake pedal position switch.If the pcm (computer) doesn't see your foot on the brakes it prevents you from taking it out of park. A good safety feature.also could be the PCM or the 'shift lock' solenoid all parts of the same system.may require scan tool or other test equipment and wiring/circuit info.
how many miles on engine? what was the reason cam sensor was replaced ? symptoms other than stalling/check engine light/codes?
how many miles on the engine? The timing chain or guide(s) or tensioner may be at fault causing erratic sensor readings.
DON'T disconnect the battery while it's running. that may cause a voltage surge that can damage computers etc. Did you install a factory alternator or aftermarket? did you FULLY charge the battery before starting it with the 'new' alternator.Use a voltmeter while running to test voltage. Use service manual for reference points. If you have access to a scanner with live data , that may be more helpful. many vehicles alternators are controlled by the PCM , the original alternator may not have been the problem.
yes.If your not familiar with this motor , a FACTORY service manual (notice the word FACTORY), would be a good start. Also be prepared to say foul words. Crank pulley is pressed on ,a special puller is needed.need to jack the motor way up to get front mount bracket out. T-55 (if I remember correctly) torx to get front mount (under plug in fender well) bolt out.DOUBLE CHECK all timing marks , one tooth off can run, but stall when warm & other goofy symptoms.good luck.Also make sure the crank pulley is re-installed correctly , otherwise you may start losing p/s belt due to pulley mis-alignment (just saw that recently on a friends car...they were told by three places they needed a belt tensioner , but the crank pulley was walking-off)
check sway bar links and bushings ...What are the specific driving conditions when you hear the noise?...Accelerating, braking , bumps only, right/left turn , only when going straight ? the more you know the more you can eliminate certain items before you touch the first bolt.
Check under hood for a shredded belt. how well charged is the battery and how close is your repair shop? I would recommend a tow...better safe than sorry!
red oil light is for PRESSURE not Volume of oil in engine. If the oil is contaminated/thinning out for some reason that would cause a PRESSURE drop at idle causing the light to come on.you can have to much oil in the engine also but that would likely cause smoking issues also.Another source of a major oil leak on those engines is the rear balance shaft seal (O-ring type seal). Best to clean and observe before wasting money on any guess.How many miles on engine and when were the timing belt and balance shaft belt and seals replaced? also does front balance shaft seal have the updated retainer on it? those seals had problems with popping out.