Can you hear the heater fan running? If not, try running the fan on the highest setting? If the fan doesn't work at anytime, the blower motor may have failed. see here - http://repairpal.com/heater-blower-motor If the fan works on the highest setting only, then your blower motor resistor may have failed. I suggest you check the fuse for the blower motor, and if it is OK, have it checked out by an experienced mechanic to determine the fault.
This sounds like an engine coolant leak. You should have it checked out, and if you have to drive it, pay very close attention to the temperature gauge, if it rises above normal, pull over and stop driving the car, you do not want to overheat the engine! This can cause thousands of dollars in damage!
I don't think Toyota has a remote start system, which would mean that you have an aftermarket alarm/remote start system on your vehicle. If this is the case, the fuse may be near the battery in the wiring that was installed with the aftermarket system, or it could be under the dash area.
I've seen this on other vehicles, and it turned out to be one of the door lock motors had a short circuit, and when it was operated, it would blow the fuse. You may be able to determine which one is bad by manually operating them individually and see if any of them are jamming or sicking.
Check your battery cables and terminals, make sure they didn't loosen up when you jump started the vehicle. These types of problems often indicate a failing electrical component. The electrical circuit is becoming inoperable as it heats up, then starts to work again as it cools down. If you can duplicate the problem on a consistent basis, demonstrate this to a mechanic who can properly diagnose the failing part.
A whistle noise can come from a vacuum leak, a drive belt, or possible a bad bearing in the alternator, water pump etc. Where is the noise coming from? Does it happen when you accelerate the engine and the vehicle is in neutral?
If the temperature is reading low, or if the engine is taking longer than normal to get up to operating temperature, then your thermostat is sticking open and should be replaced, along with the coolant (if it hasn't been changed in the last 2 years or 30,000 miles). If the engine is running poorly or your having starting/stalling issues, then the coolant temperature sensor or wiring may be defective. If the coolant level is very low, this fault could occur, then you may have a coolant leak that will need to be addressed (Replace the thermostat too)
I'm looking at a wiring diagram, and the a/c fan has a green/orange wire going to the motor, and the engine cooling fan has a green/yellow wire.
Sounds like you have 2 problems that are unrelated. The horn contacts in the steering wheel can be problematic, as well as the horns themselves. It is a fairly straight forward circuit to diagnose if you have a wiring diagram and a test light. The speedometer can be more difficult to diagnose. Depends on if it has a cable or electrically operated speedo. I'll leave that one for someone with more experience on your vehicle!
Hey Ken, I would recommend that you listen for the washer fluid pump for the rear washers when it is activated, if you don't hear the pump running, check for 12 volts at the connector when the rear washers are activated. If you have voltage, then the pump is bad. These pump failures are common on other cars, not sure about yours, but that is where I would start. If you hear the pump running, then look for a leaking fluid line, you may see fluid leaking from somewhere under the vehicle, but it could be leaking inside the car too!