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Keepitforever

Canal Winchester, OH

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Question Answered: 

I have same problem. I think it is just the switch in the steering wheel. I read that you can pull it out with two flathead screwdrivers on each side and put in a new one by sticking it in the old hole.


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Question Answered: 

use ceramic - they create less dust and the front wheels will thank you for it.


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Question Answered: 

I have the same problem -- not sure what it is, but OK when driving, right? I thought it might be a bad idle air control valve, engine mounts or a vacuum leak in the upper intake manifold. I've had this problem for about 100,000 miles now. I just step on the gas at the sign or light with the brake depressed.


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Question Answered: 

are you saying the clutch is engaging and disengaging at random? - Might be a non-oem clutch - Replace with a GM part to know for sure. I only say this because my Ford is now engaging and disengaging at random - only after being replaced with a non-oem part.


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Question Asked: 

Every time there is a stop light, the car vibrates and shakes unless I step on the gas a little bit. I'd love to fix this.


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Question Answered: 

That seems like a fair price and a fair time - it took me the better part of 6 hours the first time I changed them - the front three are easy, but the rears are under the upper intake manifold. In the 2002, to take off the upper intake manifold you need to take out the air filter housing, rubber hose, battery (may need to be cleaned with baking soda and water), disconnect all the electrical connectors on the manifold, disconnect all the vacuum hoses, preferably take off, inspect and regasket the IAC valve, the EGR valve and the throttle body. When taking off the intake manifold you need to follow a pattern for removing the nuts, then regasket the intake manifold and put it all together to the torque specified in your manual for all removed parts. Easy, but time consuming. Also be sure to get a locking extension so the spark plug socket come out of the tube. Also buy and apply anti-seize to the threads and dielectric to the electrical connectors (the top of the plug and the coil.)


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Question Answered: 

Get a kit with a gauge - it'll tell you how much refrigerant you need. They have good instructions on the bottle. I put in leak sealer and then later I read that after time the leak sealer breaks off inside the HVAC system and fouls it up. If I could do it over again I wouldn't have got the leak sealer. It should cost less than $40. If you take it to a shop - who knows, $250 - $600? It takes maybe 15 minutes in the parking lot of the store you buy the can at. DIY.


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Question Answered: 

I'd bet it's your throttle body plate - after a while the plate can get carbon build up and stick. You can take it off - it's connected to your uppper intake manifold (you'll need to replace the gasket) and torque back on to proper spec. They sell throttle body cleaner. Just spray it on and wipe the sludge off with a rag. It'll cost you $15 and less than one hour (if you don't have a torque wrench go to harbor freight they have good ones for cheap.)


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Question Answered: 

Not sure if 06 and 02 are the same, but there is not an accessible filter to change in the '02. I change the transmission fluid myself and do it every 25-30,000 miles using the haynes/chilton technique. Essentially, flush, refill 1 quart at a time and run the shifter through its paces until full, then drain again, refill 1 quart at a time and run the shifter through its paces until full. It costs more, but it keeps the fluid pink and I have not had any transmission issues after 155,000 miles. I've read horror stories from people that take it to a shop and have the transmission fail within a week because they put in the wrong fluid or they didn't flush the transmission fluid enough to get it clean.


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Question Answered: 

Have a few other people try to get it out. For some reason, my wife can get it out and I can't. This has been a recurring issue for us - always when you least expect it.


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