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Sounds like you may have a wheel speed sensor/hub causing the antilock brakes to activate. This in turn can cause the traction light to come on. You need to have a shop check the history and current codes in the system to correctly diagnose the problem.
Good possibility that the multifunction/turn signal/hazard switch is bad in the steering column. The the switch wil have to be replaced by a shop familar with disabling the SIR air bag system. Good Luck
Around 7.8 hours
Yes, you should be able to do this without disassembly.
This is what's called "Opening A Can Of Worms" Seriously when you take a injected engine and remove the necessary sensors and the computor, there is no way for the injectors,distributor etc to know what to do to control fuel and spark delivery. I think you should get someone knowledgeable with the time and PATIENCE to help you and/or seriously consider converting to a carb and a simple HEI system or a aftermarket computer and harness assembly if running a injector system.
The switch is right of the instrument panel and left of the center A/C vent. Not trying to be a smart-azz, but are you sure your truck is 4WD?
Several things could cause this, the cruise control module located behind the instrument cluster, the cruise control switch, the cruise brake release switch, wiring etc. The Body Control Module may need to be checked with a scan tool to look at the cruise module for any fault codes. The module runs self-tests and stores info that can be read thru the BCM. Suggest you get a qualified technician to look at this for you. Hope this helps
Thsi truck has RWAL rear antilock brakes on it. It could be the RWAL unit but it's sometimes very hard to bleed these systems. There is a tool that you have to use to hold in the metering valve(sometimes called a combination valve) to keep it center so fluid will flow to the rear brakes when bleeding. The valve is located below the master cylinder and all the brakes lines run into it before going to the individual wheels. On one end of this vavle is the centering valve I'm talking about. Sometimes these trucks have to be pressure bled to ever get any rear brakes. Hope this helps.
It sounds like you may have some internal engine problems, maybe something with the intake valves or valve springs causing the backfiring back up thru the throttle body and possibly causing the clacking noise also. I suggest you get a reliable shop to check it out for you. Good Luck
I think your talking about the driveshaft center support bearing on a 2-piece driveshaft, and not the differential side bearings which are sometimes also called carrier bearings. The driveshaft has to be removed and the 2 bolts holding up the center support. After the shafts are out the bearing will need to be pulled off with a special tool puller that goes under the bearing and pushes against the front of the rear driveshaft. When the old bearing is removed then install the new bearing. It will need to be pressed on, again using a special tool to seat it. Most shops could pull and oress the new bearing on for you.