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New Middletown, OH
I got a good main relay but it was so corroded it pulled the terminals up thru the junction box when taking out the relay.i cleaned it now the car wont start.no comm with the scan tool,no spark,no injector pulse after pluging the relay back in.thoughts?car fell flat on its face then regained power but after taking out that relay its dead in the water.
got rearended so hard today my hat flew onto the back seat n never left a mark on the bumper.now that's impressive.
after post cat o2s reading 2.125 volts i back probed the input wire going to the pcm. they showed .2-.3 knowning o2s cant report hihger then 1 volt, i replaced the pcm n thanks to autocomuterexchange.com.i got a new pcm cheap.problem fixed.forcing it lean n rich scanner data looks good.
i hooked my autel up to read pid data on my friends new truck and post cat o2s are reading 2.125 volts.pre cat o2s are switching + and - .5 volts as normal st fuel trim at zero as it should.engine is strong at any rpm,all data looks good.im shocked at the post cat o2s reading a solid 2.125 volts,thoughts?
silverados,colorados,camaros,luminas anything chevy cause ford sucks/allways has allways will.
as an avid user of valvoline conventional and synthetic oils i decided a few months ago to buy bulk oil at advance auto with thier name on it to save a few bucks.it was time to change oil this week in my personal vehicles only to find debris that looked like anti sieze on my magnetic oil drain plug on all 3 vehicles.so in other words,never buy cheap oil.stick with the good stuff like valvoline,mobil 1,pennzoil and other leading products. joel burke.
liquid gasket sealer would be fine for anything as long as its not used on head gaskets or headers.
grab the heater hoses at the firewall and if one feels cooler then the other just flush it out with a garden hose,reconnect the hoses then check for heat.i would buy a $4 prestone hydrometer to check for boil over and frezze over protection also.
check for exaust restrictions.
most likely a clogged resonator pipe just before the cat converter.a sawzall a $10 replacement pipe and two clamps and your wories are most likely over.
it has a blend door accuator but i would try grabbing both heater hoses at the firewall.i f one is noticably cooler then the other then flush it out with a garden hose.then check your coolant with a hydrometer and you should be fine.
change the heater blower motor resistor.that part averages about $15 at local auto parts stores
gm recommends changing the filter and atf every 30,000 miles but you can go double that if its condition looks and smells ok
if your battery has at least 12 volts and all the lights,wipers,etc works ok but it wont crank over then the battery probably has a dead cell.not detectable by a multimeter.ask around about a battery load tester or most auto parts stores will check it for free.
if this odor is coming thru your vents then i suspect a mildew buildup.buy a can of lysol or any leading bacteria killing agent in an aerosol can,start your vehicle then set your blower motor on high fan.spray half the can into the intake vents just under your windshield wipers were leaves and pine needles allways buildup and switch from vent control to floor to defrost to get the disinfectant thru all vents.you may need the whole can and dont sit in the car during this process.also,leave the doors open so oders can escape and not cling to your interior uppolstry
thats the random misfire code.i bet your resonator pipe is clogged with junk cause the same thing happened to me.cut it off with a sawzall,buy a piece of flex pipe.2 clamps and youll have $20 bucks into it rather then a $700 exaust replace.if your gonna change the plugs the #3 plug will drive you insane.