More About Points »
John Pierce Auto Care
Typically if the vehicle starts and runs the fuel pump is okay. There are times in which the pump works but doesn't have enough pressure, these times are rarer than not. There are many components in the engine management system of your car, and almost any one of these can cause a stalling condition. I would spend the money and have a shop check it out, before I start making a bunch of expensive guesses.
Is the compressor still working? I see you have a new compressor, why did the old one fail? If the system was not cleaned out/flushed, you can cause a new compressor to fail in a short time. Otherwise the new charge probably leaked out. I would have a shop check for leaks using dye/goggles and a R134a 'sniffer'. Could be leaking from the hoses, condenser, evaporator, service ports, or any of the connections from the recent repair.
Some of the parts stores, I think 'the zone', will give you torque specs. Also you can buy a repair manual from almost any parts store, or even check your library's reference section.
In my experience you always charge on the low side port if you're just 'topping off'. Having said that, cars these days are very very pressure dependent. Some vehicles take as little as 1lb of R134a for a full charge. If you overcharge the system, you can blow out the seal in the front of your compressor or cause over a thousand dollars in damage. I would highly recommend taking it somewhere and having them recharge it for you, they can check for leaks and assure you that your system has a proper charge for less than $100.00.
There are lots of reasons for an intermittent start problem. If it is a no crank condition, it could definitely be a starter problem. Could be a ignition switch problem, or wiring.
60k checkup is the first 'big' maintenance interval. Luckily for you, it doesn't seem to be too painful. Air filter, Cabin Air Filter, checking brakes, etc. It could be a $500 check up if you have to replace brakes or something, but just for the "60k Check" I know our shop would only charge you for the things needed to be replaced and an hour (75 dollars) or less of check out time (and if you did need brakes or something else related to the inspection, we don't charge you to check it, we've already got the wheels off... you know? :) )
"Power" switch was supposed to be a performance option to change shift points or make the engine a bit 'peppier', to be honest, I don't remember which it does, but that's all it is, a push button for "higher performance."
It all depends on which connector and pin you're looking at. If it's a pcm wire then it could easily be a 5 volt reference voltage. You would need to find a wiring diagram with pin diagram and follow it. Before you go too much farther with that, you maybe should look at taking it to a shop, depending on what you're trying to accomplish.
304 and 306 are both ignition miss codes (cylinder 4 and cylinder 6). Typically this is a secondary ignition problem. If I were an experienced technician, I would swap the coils and the spark plugs to different cylinders and see if the miss followed. If the miss follows to the new cylinder, then you have found the problem. If the miss did not follow then you could be talking internal engine failures, perform a compression test and/or a leak down test.
First of all, check the panel itself. If not there, check your owner's manual. If no manual then you may be looking at getting a repair manual for the vehicle. You can check your local library as they used to have repair manuals in the reference section you could make copies of the pages you needed for cheap.