Journeyman

Journeyman

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Donzi Gt230

Hacienda Heights, CA

Mechanic since birth and self employed the last 12 years. Gear head, lover of all things motorized, and owner of many.


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Question Answered: 

Could be fuse or flasher unit, maybe the switch.


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Question Answered: 

My guess is brake master cylinder pushrod adjustment is too tight or the rod or piston isn't fully retracting. Gear selection won't change it, neither will electronics. You had to press the pedal to put it into N which pressurized the system. Try again but this time loosen the master cylinder nuts a couple turns, if the problem stops you have a pushrod issue.


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Question Answered: 

I assume no check engine light while running? Pumping the gas on any fuel injected car does nothing if it's not running or being cranked so you can eliminate that from your routine. Check the fuel pressure regulator; remove the vacuum hose to it and see if there's any trace of gas in it, if so replace the regulator.


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Question Answered: 

Did it die while driving or just wouldn't start one day? Did it have any issues before the no-start?


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Question Answered: 

First check fuses. I believe your car has two flasher units, one for signals and one for hazard. The most likely cause is a bad flasher. Any parts store should have it and may be able to show you where it is to replace it.


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Question Answered: 

It could be the evaporator fan. With the engine cold and hood open, start the engine and turn the AC on. The fan behind the radiator should turn on, there may be a delay on that car. If it doesn't come on you probably have a bad fan or maybe a bad fan relay or fuse that blew. It could be low on freon, some ACs do funny stuff when low on charge.


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Question Answered: 

Does it ever do it when starting the car after sitting short periods? Ever act up while driving? It may be that the torque converter is draining while parked, not normal, but not horribly uncommon. To diagnose it yourself; next time you feel this put it in neutral right away but don't turn it off, let it idle about 10-15 seconds and try again. The other option; when you start in the morning from now on let it idle about 15-20 seconds before trying to engage the trans. If either 'fixes' it it's an indication of a draining converter, once running the fluid pump refills it. You could drive it like that forever with no harm or have it fixed if it bugs you.


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Question Answered: 

While it could be a coincidence, you may have gotten contaminated gas. Go back to the station and talk to them about it, if they had a bad batch they may know it. Generally they'll pay to have the tank drained and repair any damage.


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Question Answered: 

All engines consume some amount of oil. In general it's considered normal to loose up to a quart per 1000 miles, but some use much much less and some a little more. Turbo chargers will also leak some amount of oil in normal use and when old and worn can leak more. This oil can be found in the intake tract downstream of the turbo and sometimes puddled right at it's intake. I don't know what the norm is for yours, google search 'normal oil consumption' for your car with your engine and see how it compares to others.


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Question Answered: 

Hot gear oil will not cause the knock. Curious; how did you measure the gear oil temperature? I assume something's loose or damaged and moving. Make sure you don't have anything in the car or trunk that could be moving around including the spare tire and tools then try another dealer, I seriously doubt it's normal. If they say it is then test drive another one to confirm. A large percentage of the noises I diagnose on peoples cars turn out to be their stuff in the car moving and hitting something, I've found things from bowling balls to flashlights and occasionally seatbelt buckles or other parts of the car making noises that went undiagnosed or misdiagnosed at shops.


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