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Hi, I am writing in regards to my friends 2003 Mazda SP20 2.0L The car initially had the variable intake butterflies fail and the issue corrected, after a month of driving the car exhibits unusual running and idling characteristics, for example, the car randomly stall when coming to a stop and would restart after sitting. After driving several weeks with occasional stalling, the car starts to misfire and swapping of coils, deemed the shared coil for 1 and 2 faulty, the coil was extremely hot and a visual inspection indicated coil failure, as a bulge is protruding from the head. Replaced the coil and the car ran ok for a while until the symptoms repeated itself and the new coil had failed on the same cylinder as the first set. I have not had time yet to check the car first hand unfortunately. Are there any common issues that exude similar symptoms? I plan on checking the inputs to the coil and the PCM which from what i have read is located under the passengers footwell. Wiring was checked apparently for crimped wires and shorts. I believe it could be coincidence the coil failure occurred several weeks after repairs carried out in the area of the intake. Unsure at this stage. Thankyou
The RHF pollen filter housing is to be removed for simplicity, simply by unclipping the cover, remove the cover and filter, release the "C" shaped clip securing the front of the housing, unclip the air duct from the side and simply lift up. Remove the spark plug cover by removing the 2 bolt covers with a pick and releasing the 2 10mm bolts, remove the cover, you will see that the coil is fitted above the plugs as apposed to conventional distributors and lead setup, if the old style coil is fitted, release the 2 10mm bolts on each coil and lever the chrome colored clip up and the plug will release or if it is fitted with the newer style coil simply lift the black plastic tab on the top of the coil to release the plug and simply pull the coil out. Now you have access to the plugs simply undo and remove each plug with a spark plug socket and ratchet which can be purchased form any automotive store.
Could be low a/c gas, a loud hissing sound when a/c switched on is a sign of low gas Have the gas level checked and UV dye added
engine AND trans fail safe is unusual, possible low battery charge on start up or a failing alternator (very common) check battery and alternator charge replace if found faulty as for the a/c, a/c gas could be low, a loud hissing noise when a/c is switch on is a sign on low gas
best to ring a bmw dealer, doesn't hurt to enquire and takes 2 minutes. have your chassis number ready
simply by removing the brake caliper and mount assembly and removing the 6mm allen key bolt. then using a hammer to force the rotor off the hub as corrosion builds up on the hub
best to confirm, i have had the bowden cable break at the lever on the inside of the car, but if cable has completely snapped and it is confirmed, easiest way i have done it is by destroying one of the kidney grilles and operating the latch. i have seen others removing radiators and such from underneath, but you could be spending countless hours any other way
Take it to your nearest bmw dealer for a faults check and diagnosis can be one of 100,000 things or at least a service station that has fault checking equipment for a bmw with obd2
please elaborate, what do you mean "braking"? it is common for them to leak viscous oil and sometimes do not lock up when temperatures reach peak. do you mean front electric thermo fan?
not too sure on the relay at this very moment but there is a pressure switch the switch is located on the a/c pipe itself with a black plug hanging off it forget which line is was but within the RHF area please ensure a qualified a/c handler has evacuated the lines before replacing if faulty.
check to see if it has a superseded fan speed resistor fitted. old style has approx. 15 fins while the new style has approx. 40 if old style fitted replace fan speed resistor out of all bmws, e39 (your model) are the easiest