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I have a very similar issue with my GM car. I've been able to reduce the chugging little by little by finding and fixing tiny vacuum leaks. With my car it starts fine and runs fine for the first trip of the day. Then when I restart it it will start chugging and uses more gas to make it go. I'm almost positive that testing a MAP Sensor is part of a diagnosis using a good scan tool or code reader. I would go have it scanned if you can. You can do that for free at AutoZone or other auto parts stores. If you do solve the issue completely please let me know what was causing it. Thanks and good luck. Thanks and good luck
My understanding is that, except for FORD vehicles, all automatic transmissions take the same type fluid. So the bottles that say ATF (which stands for Automatic Transmission Fluid) should be what you'll want to use in a Mazda. You should be able to confirm this with the guys at your favorite auto parts store. You'll also want to read the instructions on the bottle before you buy to make sure it's right for your car. Other places to look for this type of information are in your owners manual, maintenance or repair manual, on the dip-stick itself, and/or on the sticker which most cars/trucks have somewhere under the hood. Usually that sticker is located on the cowling above the radiator. Be careful to not overfill it. I've heard you can blow seals that way. Hope this helps.
I was also having a similar or identical issue with my cruse control. Recently I took time to read what it says in the original owners manual (which I found on line) for my GM car (I own a 1994 Pontiac Firebird with a 3.4 V6, same motor, different bore). My car probably has the exact same or close to the same CC unit as your GM car. I discovered by reading my manual that I was actually operating my CC improperly. I should also say that operating it improperly used to work for me but stopped working a couple years ago. The method I was using (which stopped working) was to just turn the CC on by sliding the OFF ON R/A slider switch all the way over to the right. Then releasing it when I reached the desired speed. Mine wont operate that way anymore but... I tried the method laid out in my manual and it works perfectly. Here's how GM says to operate it...1) When you're ready to use the cruise control..move the "OFF ON R/A" slider switch on your turn signal lever to the "On" position. 2) Then, use your gas pedal (not the Off ON R/A slider) to achieve your desired cruising speed. 3) Then push the "SET" BUTTON the the extreme TIP (or END) of your turn signal lever for 1 second and release it. 4) Take your foot off of the gas pedal. That should make the CC work. If this is unclear, read what it says/ look at the diagrams at this link below on pages 72-75. I discovered much more cool and helpful information about my cruise control system by reading the entire section. For example...did you know you can reduce your set cruising speed by 1.5MPH increments, without resetting your cruise control, just by pushing that "SET" button again for 1 second and releasing it....? I always thought the only way to set a CC to a SLOWER speed was to turn it off and reset it altogether. I hope this helps. I have bad feet and know how important is can be to have a working cruise control. I use mine at every possible opportunity. http://shbox.com/pdf/1994firebird.pdf If it still doesn't work I'd look for vacuum leaks in the PCV system. Make sure the PCV Valve's fin is pushed all the way so it's snapped into the grove in the PCV Valve Grommet. There's also the option of getting your codes read/engine scanned but I know it's not all that easy for 1994 GM cars because it was a transition year for GM on board diagnostics systems.
I've tried to jump my A & B connectors to get my car to flash it's diagnostic codes but that doesn't work on my 1994 Pontiac Firebird 3.4 V6. I've also read and have been told that the 1994 Firebird with the 12 pin ALDL isn't made to flash codes. I'm sure when GM made these cars they also made (or at least licensed) some way to retrieve the diagnostic codes. I REALLY want to find one of those original code readers but can't even start out looking until I know what they were called back then. I found a (new/in original box) Equus Model 3123 GM Code Reader and it says on the package that it only works on Firebirds up to 1993. Is it the GM Equus Code Reader 1.6..? Thanks
My 1994 Firebird 3.4Ltr runs rough under load and my cruise doesn't work & the ABS is showing a light "ABS Not Operable". Before it started running rough the cruise control was working but I could only make it work after 20-30 minutes of driving. Sometimes it seemed to turn on all by itself making my car accelerate. Then about 4 days after doing an oil change last May (I also put in a quart of Lucas Oil Conditioner) it started running rough but only after the first trip of my day. I replaced my SP Wires and it seemed to be OK for a week or so, then put in Fuel Injector Cleaner. At a loss, I re-changed the oil/filter. Again..the symptom disappeared for about a week then reappeared. Recently I replaced the Spark Plugs and SP Wires (they were all badly carbon fouled). That didn't solve it so I replaced all three coil packs then the Ignition Coil Module. Last item replaced was the Fuel Filter. I know the Air Filter is OK. It still runs rough. Some weird aspects of this symptom are...1) if I drive my car without warming it up first, or during very humid/rainy days the symptom shows up almost immediately..usually while going up a hill. 2) The car isn't throwing any codes or showing a SES light. I tried to make it flash the codes to see if any were stored and it wouldn't flash any codes at all. Not even a 12 code. I've tried unplugging some of the ignition sensors while the car was running and it didn't seem to make any difference nor did it show or store any codes. I haven't used a OBD1 code reader on it but my manual says it should flash the codes when the A and B ports are jumped so that's the method I used. I haven't replaced the PCV valve since I bought the car and I've put on 35K miles. I don't know if the EGR has ever been checked or serviced. The car has 150K miles on it. When it's not running rough (first trip of the day) it seems to run very well. I never have any problems starting the car. After the symptoms appear the idle is rough but the RPMs seem to hold just fine. I'm starting to suspect a vacuum leak or a bad PCM but it seems like if the PCM was bad then the symptom would be constant. If anybody has any suggestions or has had a similar experience and solved it Please let me know. I'm running out of funds for this problem. Thanks, Robt.