More About Points »
Port Saint Lucie, FL
Was there any servicing done to this vehicle prior to it's "crank no-start" condition, or did you just go out to it one day and it wouldn't start? Make sure to double check that your spark plug wires are routed correctly, if they were replaced just prior to this situation. Was the distributor pulled out for any reason? Some more info would help, thanks.
Possible ignition switch from your description, but more information would be necessary before I would feel comfortable sending you in that direction.
Generally when an estimate is worded as such it is only for one fuel injector on the right side, my info says that for each additional injector it would require an extra .3 hrs a piece. So if you were going to replace all the injectors on 1 side it comes out to 4.2 hrs. So one injector says 3.3hrs, 2 would be 3.6hrs, 3 would be 3.9 hrs. Note that each shops labor rate and times will vary. Hope that helps.
The diagram that I have access to does not actually show a fuse specifically for the cruise control system, it appears that the ECM sends a voltage signal to the steering wheel switches, which is modified depending on which switch you depress whether it be cruise set, resume/accel, cancel, etc.. Are there any warning lamps on? Does the horn work? If the horn does not work and the airbag lamp is on I would suspect what is called the clockspring mechanism withing the steering column. Let me know, I'll try and help.
I looked it up and apparently these things are a bit more complicated than they probably need to be. My info seems pretty vague with some obscure pictures that I can't really make out, It'd be a lot easier to actually see the vehicle. It says that step one is to remove the outre door handle, then you have to remove the license plate housing screws followed by the license plate. Next you have to pry the license plate housing from the rear door by disengaging the plastic clips. Seems like a pain, but like I said, hard to really see whats going on without the vehicle in my face, good luck.
A "brake job" can consist of many different combination's of parts and services. Measurements of the main components of the brake system are made, such as brake rotor thickness, runout, parallelism, and brake lining material thickness and variation between all 4 corners of the vehicle. It's possible in some instances that the brake rotors or drums can be machined to provide a flat contact surface, and other times they may not have enough material left for the machining process, in which case new components would be needed. It would be impossible for me to tell you what YOUR "brake job" should consist of without actually doing the inspection personally, but if you have the estimate for what you were quoted and wanted to share that information, I'm more than happy to go over it with you and answer any questions you may have.
Are you driving through town, slow speeds with frequent stopping, or are you driving down the freeway when this seems to happen? It is possible that the cooling fans are not coming on, if they weren't your overheating issue would most likely show up when driving around at slower speeds. If it overheats while going down the freeway the fans probably aren't the issue. Another issue is that it is a "perceived" overheating issue, the temperature sensor is out of range and reporting an engine temperature that is actually hotter the reality. Overheating an engine is a very bad thing, I suggest you get this situation checked out sooner rather than later.
How did you access this code? Were any warning lights on, and was there a letter prior to this code, like C3521?
Sorry, my info just states Mopar manual transmission lubricant.
It may be beneficial to understand why you want to test the coil pack, but here you go. You are going to need a Digital Volt Ohm meter, set it to the Ohms position, and put one lead into the secondary terminal for cylinder 1, and the other lead for cylinder 5. next move the leads to cylinders 2 and 6, then to cylinders 3 and 4. The readings you will have obtained are your secondary winding resistances, make sure they are all within about 1,000 ohms of each other. To test the primary windings you will have to disconnect the electrical connector at the coil pack, then take one of you leads and place it on pin #4, this terminal is where battery voltage comes into the coil pack. Next, take your other test lead and touch it to pin #3, the pin #2, then pin #1, again, all of these readings should be within about .5 ohms of each other. Maybe if you were a bit more detailed about what your problem is I could help you out more specifically.