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Next to the a/c cycling switch beside the accululator/drier.
You really need to find a trusted repair shop that is familiar with electrical circuits. You can try disconnecting the headlight to whichever fuse is blowing being their is a seperate one for each side. If the fuse quits blowing, the headlight element could be shorted. If so, replace the bulb. Greg
I would recommend getting a second opinion from a trusted repair shop. We use both O.E. and aftermarket parts and give our customers the option. If the vehicle has only 53,000 miles, I can't see it needing it all replaced due to it being 409 stainless. Greg
You really need to get an oil pump primer installed in place of the distributor to see if you get any type of resistance while running the drill on the primer. This will save your engine bearings if starting the engine with low/no oil pressure. Sounds like you have major oil pressure loss somewhere in the engine. Greg
If you do not have any spark or fuel injection pulse while cranking, I would suggest having a trusted repair shop check your timing belt tensioner, pulleys and belt for problems. If the noise was internal engine, it's a good possibility their is a problem in this area. This vehicle is also well known for intermittant distributor problem's. Greg
You really need to have a repair shop check your scan data and fuel pressure if you are unable to. We have seen defective coolant temperature sensors, fuel pump problems and dirty mass airflow sensors with no check engine light on or codes stored. Greg
Your saying, your truck ran fine till you pulled up to the pump, added how much and was it E-85?
Take the new bulb back out, compare it with the old one. Make sure the part number is correct. Reinstall the old one to see if you have the original result. You may need to contact a repair shop for some help with this problem if you are not familiar with electrical circuits. Greg
I recommend having someone else with a differen't scan tool check the status of the monitors. Depending on the type of scan tool your using, we have several types and brands of scan tools and have seen some discrepancies in information on non dealer scan tools. Greg
I recommend steam cleaning the area off first, running the engine to locate the leak, I use a large telescoping mirror. If it is the vacuum pump, it does use a gasket. make sure the pump itself is not leaking around the shaft. To change the pump, Disconnect negative battery cable. Position drain pan under power steering pump, disconnect vacuum and steering pump hoses, disconnect oil pressure sender wires and remove sender, disconnect oil feed line from fitting at underside of vacuum pump,Remove lower bolt attaching pump assembly to engine block. Remove bottom, inboard nut attaching adapter to steering pump. This nut secures a small bracket to the block. Nut and bracket must be removed before pump assembly can be removed. Remove upper bolt that attaches pump assembly to block. Lift pump assembly from vehicle. To install reverse procedure. Will take about two hours. Greg