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I have had this problem with the mass air flow sensor. If your mass airflow sensor you will get codes indicating such. I was actually able to take the old one apart and resolder some bad solder connections in the module and it worked fine after that. I don't recomend taking it apart yourself unless you know what you are doing. The small wires that go to the outside connector are welded to pads and come loose, unfortunately these wires are aluminum and cannot be soldered with rosin core solder, they must be replaced with copper wire. The wires are very tiny and delicate, I use a strand of 20 gauge stranded wire as a new wire. I start by cutting the very top of the plastic cap of the sensor assembly off with a dremel tool. A fine tipped soldering Iron is required. Good luck if you attempt this. If the Mass Airflow Sensor is dirty it will have an effect on the Idle but usually not set the check engine light. I have also had poor idle issues because of the Idle Air Control Motor died, it did not set the check engine light. The Idle Air Control Motor controls the idle speed of the engine under different loads. There is a base rpm it is set to, while unplugged, and then it controls the idle above that by changing the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate. Another poor Idle issue I have had with this vehicle is the Knock Sensor. The knock Sensor self destructs in time and becomes extremely sensitive, it will set the check engine light and a code. I initially installed a cheap china knock off and it barely out performed the broken sensor. As a result I had to replace it with a top brand part. Tip: the knock sensor is under the intake manifold and is very time consuming to replace, many people splice into the old sensor wires and mount the new sensor on the other end of the block in a convenient location and get good results. Note: the knock sensor wires are a coax except at the connector where it is split into two separate wires to go through the connector. I have also replaced the distributor to resolve poor idle issues, the bearings in the distributor are notorious at leaving material on the sensor ring and having excessive play causing a poor idle. P.S. If there are no codes start with the cheap stuff first, plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc. Good Luck
On my 94 villiger the idle air control motor is on the top left side of the intake manifold. It's a tight squeaze up there but do-able. I replaced mine a few years ago.
I have had a problem on my villager at the drivers door switch assembly the contacts in the switch keep getting corroded. I remove the switch assembly and litely burnish the contacts with 600 grit emery cloth and everything works good for a couple of years and I have to do it again.
The van runs fine and has plenty of power on acceleration. Idles at normal rpm, Idel air control motor is working good, egr valve works good by manual depression. Vacuum is steady at 15 inches of mercury. Inspected spark plugs, no problems found, cleaned rotor, distributor cap and inspected plug wires. No emission codes. It's not to bad in park but is very noticeable and sounds like it's going to die at a stop in drive. Thanks
There is an electrical connector at the electric release latch on the trunk lid. I disconnected mine because I would accedentally push the button on my keyfob and not know the trunk was open while I was sitting in the house watching TV and it was raining outside. You should get power at that connector when you push the button. It's a good first test. Good luck.
That system has a down solenoid in the pump module that gets rusty and locks up due to moisture in the system. An online company offers rebuilt or used and tested pump units (suncoreindustries.com). The pump is usually located in the right rear fender behind the tire. On my car the two white wires going to the pump module are the down solenoid. Don't test this without supporting the car because it will come down on you. GM offers new head unit for this pump for about $125.00 but you can get the whole unit used and tested for $100.00 plus shipping. Suncore sends a recharged desicant filter ($35.00), that you need, with their units. Troubleshoot first. The black wire is pump ground and the green or black and green stripe wire is pump power. Good luck.
I just went through this problem on my 97 PA. One of the biggest issues here is the OEM pump for the auto leveling feature, located under the right rear fender behind the wheel, has an inlet filter in the frame rail right by the pump which alows water salt and dirt to enter the pump module. The end result is the valve seats in the pump module corrode and leak causing the pump to run excessively and some times burn out. There is a pump module rebuilder online (suncoreindustries.com) and Autozone sells the shocks. Troubleshoot first. I would explain more but I am only alowed so many characters.
The gauge sending unit in the gas tank has a position where the wiper does not touch the resistive pad. When this occurs the gauge gets the maximum voltage which drives the needle all the way around to the back side of the resting pin. In the car I own this only happens when the tank is almost empty and the gauge is in the red. To save money I just keep my tank above 1/4 and it's fine but the real solution is to replace the sending unit in the tank. I would defenitly test the new sending unit on the bench with a multimeter to make sure the replcement sending unit does not do the same thing. I would also recomend an aftermarket part, aftermarket manufacturers tend to resolve OEM part problems in their designs.