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Las Vegas, NV
To NV and want to repair it before I do. The NV repair shops are very expensive as to AZ. I'm told its not that difficult of a fix that is under or around the distributor. The report said: "High Speed CO 3.03% Greater than 1.20% and High Speed HG 227 Greater than 220 parts per million." Can anyone give me advice on this and how to fix it. At that same time of the test I had a few small holes in the muffler. I replaced it. Do you think that had anything to do with my van flunking?
a tranny shop thinks its the planet plates gears inside, but it only happens in drive and starts about 3/4 miles down the road. If I drive in 2nd or 1st it does not sound. Another tranny shop says the planet gears only operate in 2nd and 3rd. I have an automatic. To replace the planet gears we are looking at a whole new tranny job costing $1500. What if that's not it? Any suggestions?
It starts at about 30 mph. Sometime it doesn't sound at all. If I drop down rpm's it will quite out. I was told it was my wheel bearings. I replaced those and the rotors and it still is their. I was told it was my drive train and when they lifted it up they found nothing wrong. I changed an idler pulley and the serpinteen belt and it still is their. A transmission shop says its sound like a bearing inside. They want $1400 to change it out. It runs good and doesn't sound all the time. About 6 months ago I changed out a water pump and used the old clutch could It be that? I am having a small problem with a leak in my power sterring holder. Coould it be that or in the sterring housing. Im dazed and confused. Hope its nothte tranny.
and as many fuse links as I could find. Checked blower by running a test direct from batt. and its OK. negative wire from blower is intact. Tested the good fuse 30amp,location and got a positive light. But when I test the green wire going to the blower from that fuse I get nothing. any ideas will help.
switch/control lever and cant remember what goes where? I have a thick beige wire, a medium blue and green wire and a thin dark brown. On the lever switch behind their is an H and M and a B. nothing on the 4th connection. Can you tell me about it? and the same wires leed into the glove compartment and go into a small cardboard like flat unit on the back wall of the glove compartment. what is that?
today I was #19, How can I go directly to my problem question and answer? though I like helping where I can it is cumbersome to go one after the other searching?
I also tried tester on 3 connections to blower lever control behind main unit on dash and found nothing. Should their be a live wire there? Fuse is OK what to do next?
Sure battery is good? Are you getting any willing to start but won't sounds? Try new battery terminals.
Recently solved a similar problem. After getting it professionally diagnosed we found it to be a distributor relay sensor sitting under the distributor of my 94 dodge van. Cost $160 including labor to replace it. running ever since without shut down.
I replaced the ignition switch last year and it didnt happen but that doesnt seem like the problem. Any help?
Bolt snapped how much? Can you get a bite on any part of it. You may have to drill it out and make a new hole for threading. My 94 B150 thermastate is ditting on top of the engine. No need to remove alternator. Is this like yours?
Put bottom bolt in first but don't tighten it all the way. Take a tire iron or crow bar and place it next to the alternator on the left side and lift. Make sure you have a good foundation on the tire iron/ crow bar notto damage anything else. It should line up the top hole so you can get a bite.
Is the blower operating?
Its a process of illumination.
Whens the last time you changed the trannie filter?
Yes but it maybe the fuel line. Just had a friend who's car did the same They found that the hose connected to the fuel pump was not on correctly. Now they are truckin.
remove all screws holding on panel. Remove screw holding on handle. Or visa versa. if its electric you need to remove screws or other holding down window electrical. You should be able to lift it out with wires still intact while removing panel.
middle if going correctly.
I installed a new switch lever but that wasn't the problem. Im trying to find the heater blower resister. Is it under the hood, or under the glove compartment or under the dash inside? Is that the problem?
the small bypasss hose on the right upper side of he water pump is hard to replace. I need to remove the air compressor and move it aside, im told. What bolts do I remove to do it?