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San Diego, CA
This is a very reasonable price. It is on the low side of the Estimator if you use that as a range guideline. Be sure the products and labor have at least a 2 year / 24,000 mile warranty.
Your description indicates that the vehicle will need to be towed for diagnosis and repairs. Based on your detailed description their are multiple possibilities may of which would not actually be considered major. If we can be of service we can be reached at 858-560-9131. David
Always a hard question. Testing the vehicles power and grounds to the actual window switch is step #1. This verifies that the fuses are good, the wiring from the fuse panel to the switch is good and that the switch itself is good. Assuming all those test out the next step is to remove the door panel to test the window motor, inspect the regulator and make the final determination on what does need to be repaired.
The PO303 will need to be diagnosed. You could have a compression problem and/or a no spark condition on that cylinder. Based on your description of "loss of power" I would start with a compression test on all four cylinders wet and dry to verify the internal integrity of the valves and piston so you can eliminate any problem there. Then if the compression is good I would move onto checking the spark on cylinder #3.
The light can not just be "turned off.” This is a safety feature and the light is on because in the event of a collision the air bag/s will not deploy. The Safety Restraint System (SRS) will need to be diagnosed to determine the source of the problems and the correct repair. The diagnosis runs $ 59.95
Great description! The noise you have described can come from a few different areas. It could be tires that have abnormal wear, brakes rotors, disc pads and/or bearings. It would require a complete diagnosis to pinpoint the exact source and the proper repair procedure. This testing runs $ 39.95 and is no charge with repairs.
The airflow meter runs $ 381.20 Parts & labor with a 2 year / 24,000 mile warranty
Both contributors have very valid points. The real issue is your “Right to Repair.” Many vehicle owners mistakenly believe (and may have been misled by the selling dealer) that they must return to the dealership for all scheduled maintenance and/or repairs to keep their warranty in tack. This is only correct if you are obtaining warranty repairs from the manufacture or recalls. You have a right to select any qualified repair facility to do any maintenance service that the manufacture requires and/or any repair your vehicle needs. All you do is simply keep your records of service and all warranties stay intact. The dealership has a very high overhead with their vast operations and quite frankly the $300.00 they bill is a fair value based on their high operational expense, but why should you contribute to this? This is why the independent repair community can save you thousands of dollars over your vehicles life. We simply have lower overhead. But be careful, all independents are not equal and the lowest cost is generally not your best choice. Be sure the shop has recognizable credentials like AAA Approved Repairs (Automobile Club). ASE certified technicians and preferably ASE Master Certified Technicians. Check how many years they have been in business. What is their warranty, look for a minimum of 1 year and 12,000 but more so 2 years, 24,000 miles. This will help you select a seasoned professional you can count on for the life of your car and save thousands. So love your Hyundai and stay away for the deep pocket dealership.
The non turbo design parts and labor including a toe set will run $ 789.00. The warranty is 2 years / 24,000 miles.
There are many electronic controls that directly and/or indirectly can affect the transmission operation. You have some type of electronic problem and/or you may have an internal transmission problem. The first step is to diagnose the vehicles electronic transmission control unit and electronic solenoid operations. This will in turn determine the source of the problem. This test runs $ 89.95.